fbodlovr said:
Without it, you will have equal pressure.
So you will only get the amount of boost the wastegate actuator is set to. Same as having it in backwards.
The only way to run without the restrictor to increase boost is with a bleeder valve.
What makes a car go into closed loop?????
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Without it, you will have equal pressure.
So you will only get the amount of boost the wastegate actuator is set to. Same as having it in backwards.
The only way to run without the restrictor to increase boost is with a bleeder valve.
Squid4life
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That stupid little thing (even though very important) is very confusing. I have seen it cause low boost, or high boost. Think of it as a regulator?
It does two things by restricting airflow. First, the wastegate solenoid can't bleed off the full volume of air through that vacuum line so it wouldn't be very effective without the restrictioin. And two, it delays the boost signal to the wastegate so it stays shut longer, making it spool faster.
Relating to the closed loop deal, that issue with the CTS reading -39 is where your immediate attention should be. >120 deg is what you need to be able to go into closed loop if I recall correctly.
HOWEVER, depending on what aftermarket chip you may be running there may be some more confussion to this scenario. An open loop chips such as the Thrasher and some others will stay in open loop while in park @ idle. If it wasnt for the one goofy CTS reading all your other #s would be pointing towards the presence of a open loop chip.
If I recall from your other thread you did go ahead and put that new CTS in right? If the problem is still there then I would check the 2 wires to the sensor and make sure that one isnt grounding somewhere or something goofy like that. Also, this may be a stupid question but you changed the 2wire coolant temp sensor for the ECM on top of the intake and not the 1wire coolant temp sending unit in [for the idiot light] right?
HOWEVER, depending on what aftermarket chip you may be running there may be some more confussion to this scenario. An open loop chips such as the Thrasher and some others will stay in open loop while in park @ idle. If it wasnt for the one goofy CTS reading all your other #s would be pointing towards the presence of a open loop chip.
If I recall from your other thread you did go ahead and put that new CTS in right? If the problem is still there then I would check the 2 wires to the sensor and make sure that one isnt grounding somewhere or something goofy like that. Also, this may be a stupid question but you changed the 2wire coolant temp sensor for the ECM on top of the intake and not the 1wire coolant temp sending unit in [for the idiot light] right?
6SENSE said:
Yeah, I replaced it. And yeah I replaced the two wires with the new plug. Its showing normal temps now. The light does stay blinking so im guessing that is open loop. IM going to take it for a small drive here in a few to see if it goes into closed loop. Ill post back up what I find. I never knew a thrasher chip was one that stayed in closed loop whild parked or idle.
I didn't realize you were running a Thrasher. :biggrin:
Here's a link for some info on the Thrasher chip.
http://www.thrashercharged.com/Chips_htm/GNttype.shtm
Here's a link for some info on the Thrasher chip.
http://www.thrashercharged.com/Chips_htm/GNttype.shtm
Yeah, its a thrasher. Im gonna look at that site when I get done with this post. I thought I would ask something else real quick. I didnt take the car out because I got side tracked on something else.
I am having problems with my car getting fuel pressure when I turn the key on WITHOUT starting it. I know it should kick on the fuel pump and pressurize the lines. I replaced the fuel pump relay because it was bad. Well, it still isnt working and from what I found the relay simply isnt getting triggered. Now, I looked in a book we have and it shows a fuel pressure selinoid and a fuel metering valve. Im guessing this might be the cause of it and the computer isnt seeing it for some reason? Do any of you know where this selinoid or whatever it is, is at? Is this what triggers the relay to power the fuel pump?
I am having problems with my car getting fuel pressure when I turn the key on WITHOUT starting it. I know it should kick on the fuel pump and pressurize the lines. I replaced the fuel pump relay because it was bad. Well, it still isnt working and from what I found the relay simply isnt getting triggered. Now, I looked in a book we have and it shows a fuel pressure selinoid and a fuel metering valve. Im guessing this might be the cause of it and the computer isnt seeing it for some reason? Do any of you know where this selinoid or whatever it is, is at? Is this what triggers the relay to power the fuel pump?
It should be triggered by the ignition wire, which should be part of a fusible link. ( pink wire )
If the relay isn't working it defaults to the oil pressure sender before priming the pump.
Should be able to apply 12 volt jumper to the relay to test.
Also a fuel pump test lead by the alternator ( green wire connector )
Sounds like maybe the power feed to the relay is bad.
If the relay isn't working it defaults to the oil pressure sender before priming the pump.
Should be able to apply 12 volt jumper to the relay to test.
Also a fuel pump test lead by the alternator ( green wire connector )
Sounds like maybe the power feed to the relay is bad.
Hey slow. Yeah, I triggered the wire going back to the puel pump to make sure it was good, and it primed it, and then I triggered my relay to make sure it was good and it was also.
I was thinking a while about how the fuel pump should work, or atleast the only way I fan figure out how it would work. I first thought the same thing about the ignition wire, but if it was, it would be pressurising it the whole time and wouldnt shut off unless it had some type of fuel pressure sensor. Thats when i looked in the book to find the fuel pressure selinoid. I also thought maybe the computer watched that selinoid and then tripped the relay accordingly. I guess im not trying to argue with you at all, but it doesnt seem like it can be just the ignition that is controlling it. I probed the wired in the harness at the fuel pump relay. The three that are in a row, the one on the righ tis the ground, the one on the far left is the positive trigger that trips the relay, the top middle one is going out to the fuel pump, and the bottom one on the right is what would be going threw the relay going out to the pump. That'll make sense if you know how relays work. lol
But, I am NOT getting the trigger side of the harness. when I get the car cranking and it builds up oil pressure and fires, the bottom right on the plug goes to power to obviously trip the relay. But, once again im not getting the positive signal to actually trip the relay.
SO, what do you think about waht ive said on how the relay is controlled?
I was thinking a while about how the fuel pump should work, or atleast the only way I fan figure out how it would work. I first thought the same thing about the ignition wire, but if it was, it would be pressurising it the whole time and wouldnt shut off unless it had some type of fuel pressure sensor. Thats when i looked in the book to find the fuel pressure selinoid. I also thought maybe the computer watched that selinoid and then tripped the relay accordingly. I guess im not trying to argue with you at all, but it doesnt seem like it can be just the ignition that is controlling it. I probed the wired in the harness at the fuel pump relay. The three that are in a row, the one on the righ tis the ground, the one on the far left is the positive trigger that trips the relay, the top middle one is going out to the fuel pump, and the bottom one on the right is what would be going threw the relay going out to the pump. That'll make sense if you know how relays work. lol
But, I am NOT getting the trigger side of the harness. when I get the car cranking and it builds up oil pressure and fires, the bottom right on the plug goes to power to obviously trip the relay. But, once again im not getting the positive signal to actually trip the relay.SO, what do you think about waht ive said on how the relay is controlled?
I wanted to add to this real quick. I looked at gnttype.org website and found this.
-To supply additional voltage to the fuel pump to ensure full pressure and volume at Wide Open Throttle. The factory setup only supplies voltage to the fuel pump from the fuse panel; which varies from 11.0-12.0 volts. By feeding the fuel pump voltage from the alternator, the voltage is raised to 13+ volts.-
So, it must be true that its controlled by the ignition. But WHAT makes it stop pumping once the lines are pressurized? Also, what fuse is it under the dash that is for the fuel pump relay? My lettering is kind of warn off. Could you POSSIBLY take a picture of it too?
-To supply additional voltage to the fuel pump to ensure full pressure and volume at Wide Open Throttle. The factory setup only supplies voltage to the fuel pump from the fuse panel; which varies from 11.0-12.0 volts. By feeding the fuel pump voltage from the alternator, the voltage is raised to 13+ volts.-
So, it must be true that its controlled by the ignition. But WHAT makes it stop pumping once the lines are pressurized? Also, what fuse is it under the dash that is for the fuel pump relay? My lettering is kind of warn off. Could you POSSIBLY take a picture of it too?
gnttype good source
Kinda early,just got up. I'll take a stab at your question.
Should be the fuel pressure regulator. Whatever pressure it's set to.
Then you when you drive your sensors take over maf,TPS,etc send data to the ecm for injector/fuel control.
The fuel pressure should rise with load/boost.
http://www.engraver1.com/help/FusePanel.jpg
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/fuelpage.html
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/images/wiring.gif
Kinda early,just got up. I'll take a stab at your question.
Should be the fuel pressure regulator. Whatever pressure it's set to.
Then you when you drive your sensors take over maf,TPS,etc send data to the ecm for injector/fuel control.
The fuel pressure should rise with load/boost.
http://www.engraver1.com/help/FusePanel.jpg
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/fuelpage.html
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/images/wiring.gif
well if you look at the wiring schematic.
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/images/wiring.gif
The relay gets power from the ignition and the ecm.
So it appears when you turn the ignition on, the circuit is energized from the ecm.
The pump will run long enough with the key on to prime.
So if your getting no power to the relay, it has to be one of the two.
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/images/wiring.gif
The relay gets power from the ignition and the ecm.
So it appears when you turn the ignition on, the circuit is energized from the ecm.
The pump will run long enough with the key on to prime.
So if your getting no power to the relay, it has to be one of the two.
