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That makes sense then.

So as far as weights, should I step down to 10w-40 in the summer as well? I figure 20w-50, which was always used in it in hot weather, would be good for high temps and good oil pressure, especially for the turbo. But like you said, I dont want the oil pump straining too much, and the motor having to move heavier oil around as much.
 
i have always had 10w30 in my car...i used to drive my GN 365 days a year in 100+ degree heat and -15 degree weather...never had starting problems or over heating problems...
 
I like the cheapest full synthetic I can find. Currently Havoline 10w30. I was getting it at Advance Autoparts but I think they upped the price a little. I was paying $2.99 qt which I figure was only around twice as much as a primium dino oil which I don't consider that bad since I usually leave it in for 5K instead of 3K so it evens out a little more.

I can still change my oil myself with close to the best stuff available and its about the same amount as the millions getting their oil changed at jiffy lube and getting nothing special except for maybe a stripped drain plug every now and then :D
 
oil weight

As I said in my earlier post,I had emailed not only Pennzoil but 2 other top companies about what weight oil to use.I received the same reply from all three: 10w30.I believe they said it was something about drainback and 10w40 being too heavy.I know it seems hard to belive that hot oil would not drain back fast enough but I am just relaying the information I was given.Bruce
 
Hey,

I always figured if Mobil 1 was good enough for NASA and our most extreme military aircraft (yep, that's Mobil 1 in those mil-spec bottles), who was I to argue?

So, for the last 20+ years, it's been in every internal combustion engine we've had...business, personal, & home/farm.

And, like everything else, "youse pays yo' money, youse takes youse choice."
________________________________________________

(For instance, that Nick Micale guy is going to "massage" a new set of TA heads for me in February.)

:) :) :) :) :)
 
Would these usages change for street versus racing use? I still may stick with 10w-40 all year round. But should the thicker oil be used if I do any thrashing on it at the track? Thats what I'm confused about. I always hear recommendations for thicker oil for racing.

On Kendall's website (www.kendallmotoroil.com), they recommend the GT-1 performance oil (non-synthetic) for turbocharged and blown motors. The synthetic mentions nothing about them.
 
I dont mind spending a few extra $$ on Mobil1.I got 12k on one motor and 6k on the other.I just feel safer knowing I'm using the best oil.
 
Amsoil 20-50 series 2000.

Does anybody knows what's the part# for a long amsoil oil filter??
 
Regarding the wt. of oil to use in our engines I firmly believe 5-30 or 10-30 should always be used. Heavier oil takes too much hp to pump, slow returning, and will cause the filter by-pass valve to open much more than necessary. You should run the thinnest oil possible and maintain hot idle oil pressure.
 
kendall gt 1

this oil maybe used at your local dalership but GM goodwrench motor oil is manufactured by exxon/mobil petroleum corp.
 
What about Mobil 1 synthetic 15w-50. I've heard of a few guys using that in their TR's. That too thick? It's also recommended for high perf & turbo engines.

With syn oil being so "slippery", wouldnt cold starts be harsh if most of the oil (being a lighter weight oil) drip off the crank & journals/bearings when the engine rests for long periods of time?
 
SJ Type Oils

Beware. The SJ designation for oil is the first time that standards went backwards. What use to be the minimum requirement for zinc became the maximum requirement. Therefore, sounds like a good idea to stay away from 10W30 oils with the SJ designation.

I am not an oil expert and do not know the details for designations after SJ or if SJ is an issue with synthetic oils. Oil experts please advise.

Richard
 
Originally posted by GrndNatnl

With syn oil being so "slippery", wouldnt cold starts be harsh if most of the oil (being a lighter weight oil) drip off the crank & journals/bearings when the engine rests for long periods of time?

just the opposite actually...

synthetic oil leaves a slippery film which will far out-last a regular conventional oil...
 
Originally posted by GrndNatnl
.........With syn oil being so "slippery", wouldnt cold starts be harsh if most of the oil (being a lighter weight oil) drip off the crank & journals/bearings when the engine rests for long periods of time?

This is exactally what the GM engineers from the engine plant told me when discussing synthetic vs. regular oil. If the vehicle sits 3 or 4 days w/o being started, the syn oil will drain from the bearings.

The oil company reps of course say it "is not a problem". For my GN and T-Type that are only used a few times a year, I would rather have regular oil.

Most of the racers I know around the country seem to prefer Kendall non-synthetic.
 
Quick question

What weight oil came in these cars from the factory? Was it 5W30 or 10W30. Thanks
 
I believe they came with 10w-30 from the factory. I still would go with 10w-40 though personally. If we get a brutal enough summer, I might go back to using 20w50 in the summer. Prev owner did that, and he bought it new in '87, and put 230,000 miles on the original motor. He always used Castrol GTX though. So I'm assuming that in hot weather that thicker oil is fine for it.

I'm not sure how good 20w50 would be for a long road trip though. Anyone run this weight oil and take your TR on long trips? If I drive it to Florida, I dont want to put a strain on the motor & oil pump if its too thick. I would just fill with 10w40.
 
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