what to look for when buying GN
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Smoking on star up. If you can remove the ducting on the cold side, check shaft play - up down, in-out, left right. The compressor blades should not be able to touch the compressor housing. (obviously do this while the car isn't running)
Look for white smoke under acceleration. The Turbo should sound like a big truck turbo under acceleration, not a siren. The siren sound is the thrust bearing in the cartridge giving up the goose.
Car should idle fairly smooth, a little shakey - that's the nature of these motors.
No stumble on tip in throttle.
Oh, yeah - do a carfax to verify that it is 40K and not 140K.
Look for white smoke under acceleration. The Turbo should sound like a big truck turbo under acceleration, not a siren. The siren sound is the thrust bearing in the cartridge giving up the goose.
Car should idle fairly smooth, a little shakey - that's the nature of these motors.
No stumble on tip in throttle.
Oh, yeah - do a carfax to verify that it is 40K and not 140K.
sugarandopium
where were the spiders
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I wouldn't stop there with the rust checking, especially if you're in a rust prone area.
Bring a flashlight, crawl under the car, check the frame, floorpans and everything else.
Bring a flashlight, crawl under the car, check the frame, floorpans and everything else.
dwall
Well-Known Member
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Everything you would do with any used car!
Bumper fillers soft and pliable?
Body all metal? Accident or rust repairs with mud? Rust free should also have rust free inside bottom door seam. Frame staight?
Interior wear? Driver seat? Pedals? Upkeep? Clean or Non-smoker?
Doors close easy, hood no dents from stupid slams on center front.
Trunk floor and rear 1/4s?
T-tops check floors - up carpet and under side.
Then here's some reading:
The Turbo Regal Buyer's Guide
Good luck!
Bumper fillers soft and pliable?
Body all metal? Accident or rust repairs with mud? Rust free should also have rust free inside bottom door seam. Frame staight?
Interior wear? Driver seat? Pedals? Upkeep? Clean or Non-smoker?
Doors close easy, hood no dents from stupid slams on center front.
Trunk floor and rear 1/4s?
T-tops check floors - up carpet and under side.
Then here's some reading:
The Turbo Regal Buyer's Guide
Good luck!
sugarandopium
where were the spiders
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2008
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- 569
Also... power windows and locks should still work well at 40k miles.
Steering wheel is another place to check for wear.
Steering wheel is another place to check for wear.
rodman99999
Active Member
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CarFarts can't verify anything with regards to mileage, if it's a one-owner car, or was sold with low mileage on the odometer(then rolled over that reading again). Nor can they tell you if the car was totalled, or a flood-damaged car, if the state in which it was damaged doesn't record those facts on the title(ie: Kentucky). Of course, they don't tell you they have no information until they have your money. In addition to the things mentioned: Wear on the carpet, brake pedal, driver's seat, etc. tells much.
I might be alone here, but I have noticed before (even on cars with low mileage) on ebay, for instance, how many cars on there talk of their engine being "newly rebuilt". Now, I am not saying it has not been rebuilt, but I would only want a car with a factory sealed shortblock. That is, of course unless it has been rebuilt by a guy known for rebuilding our engines correctly.
How many horror stories do we read here, and see in with GN's that we know. I just had my engine rebuilt, and now I have no oil pressure, what do I do? Sometimes I wonder how many engine builders actually know the tricks involved in building the 3.8 to last. If you treat it correctly, a stock 3.8 will run forever, very few rebuilt ones seem to, maybe it is just me.
How many horror stories do we read here, and see in with GN's that we know. I just had my engine rebuilt, and now I have no oil pressure, what do I do? Sometimes I wonder how many engine builders actually know the tricks involved in building the 3.8 to last. If you treat it correctly, a stock 3.8 will run forever, very few rebuilt ones seem to, maybe it is just me.
take a magnet
When I bought my first GN, it was new so I dd not have choice. I later found out the dealer had dented the driver door. There was some thick green stuff on the door body under the paint. I assume it ws some kind of bondo.
Take a refrigerator magnet and run it all over the car to see if there is paint on steel or paint on bondo. It helps to go to a car you know has bondo and see the difference.
Do the engine too on any car that might have an aluminum block. Some great finds have been made this way.
When I bought my first GN, it was new so I dd not have choice. I later found out the dealer had dented the driver door. There was some thick green stuff on the door body under the paint. I assume it ws some kind of bondo.
Take a refrigerator magnet and run it all over the car to see if there is paint on steel or paint on bondo. It helps to go to a car you know has bondo and see the difference.
Do the engine too on any car that might have an aluminum block. Some great finds have been made this way.
I'm going to look at starting at $17,000. Really clean car. I have an 87 with T-tops. Bad rod bearing. Decided I'm going to fix. I spent to much time and money on my 87 to sell. Located in Milwaukee wisconsin. Do you guys know of anybody who works on these motors near me. Going to pull the motor myself.
Hey Bobbin.... if you post in the Michigan forum there are plenty of us in MI and someone might be willing to go with you and add a second pair of eyes.
Having a scan tool along isn't a bad idea but not necessary.
Is the car from MI or are you going elsewhere to view it? I have personally seen 30k cars in MI that were already rusting :-(
Is there an ad you are looking at? If so show us and we can give the car a quick assessment from afar. Not the end-all decision maker but we can often spot "oddities" just from pictures.
Will
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
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The only thing I'm ever concerned with on a Gbody is rust!!!!
Dennis Kirban
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If you want a real in depth answer to your question about what to look for I wrote a book on the subject runs about 150 pages available from Cars Inc, Amazon and us (Kirbanperformance.com) entitled Kirbans Guide to Buying a Used 1986 and 1987 Buick Turbo Regal. Above comments are good but if you are planning to spent 15 grand or better you don't want any surprises down the road after you purchase your new ride. This book is based on buying 300 plus of these cars.
Finding a nice one is almost as tough as Mustang buyers have at finding a 5-speed 1990-1993 notchback model. Miles are not as important as to how the car was treated. Rust as it has been pointed out is something to avoid at all costs. No matter how much rust you see figure twice as much exists you don't see.
When these cars were painted moral was quite low at the factory level which explains why they were not perfect cars when they were new. Now you add 23-24 years to the equation and the results are worse.
Good luck on your search.
kirbanperformance.com
denniskirban@yahoo.com
Not an expert, but know enough to get by on.
Finding a nice one is almost as tough as Mustang buyers have at finding a 5-speed 1990-1993 notchback model. Miles are not as important as to how the car was treated. Rust as it has been pointed out is something to avoid at all costs. No matter how much rust you see figure twice as much exists you don't see.
When these cars were painted moral was quite low at the factory level which explains why they were not perfect cars when they were new. Now you add 23-24 years to the equation and the results are worse.
Good luck on your search.
kirbanperformance.com
denniskirban@yahoo.com
Not an expert, but know enough to get by on.
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
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