what to spray over the metal before body filler

[85begalttype]

im doing a frame off on my car and removed the landau top. grinded down all the factory rivets for the fabric and chrome trim. Got the car blasted and epoxy primed so i can do the body work. there are some rivets that i some how missed and now i have to grind them down, but will end up going through the epoxy primer. i cant afford to get the car towed all the way to the painter again just for some shots of primer. What would be the best paint to spray on in a can? to protect the metal before the body filler gets put on? i do have an air compressor and spray gun, but i dont have a spray booth to do this at my own garage. could i spray can some primer on or should i get a full gallon of epoxy primer and do the patches myself ?

ive never done body work myself before and this is my first frame off project, budget is tight but im a quick learner.

 

[JC3569]

You can buy epoxy primer in quarts now.i would use dp 90 ppg,but if you are really tight on money then buy kerker epoxy this is cheap but i never had a problem with it. Also if you want more info you can call me i am a bodyman. 774 930 4156 joe

 

[85begalttype]

ok thank you, i will see what i can get in canada, and i will sandwhich the filler in epoxy to make sure sure no moisture gets to it. epoxy on the metal, then do the body work on the patches and then cover over with epoxy again. I guess i have to make a little paint booth my laying plastic down in my garage .

 

[forcefed3.8's]

No need to put filler over epoxy primer. That is old school. New fillers can be spread over bare metal (in fact that is preferred).

 

[charlief1]

No need to put filler over epoxy primer. That is old school. New fillers can be spread over bare metal (in fact that is preferred).

Yep. Make sure you have a good rough surface for the body filler to stick to and start putting it on. There should be no paint or primer under it or it will not adhere properly.

 

[onefastgn]

SPI, you will love it. Its one of the best product out there and won't cost you an arm and a leg. Ask for Berry. There clear is the best also. Pretty much everything they sell is top notch. I would also use there waterborne wax and greese remover to wipe down before any epoxy primer is applied.http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Logos.htm

Old school or not, putting bondo on top of epoxy is the only sure way to go. Then re-apply epoxy over your bondo work. I've been doing this for a long time and even the new bondo sucks up moisture and will blister down the line, i can assure you of that. Sure it will work but why not be 100% for sure you have done it right. Its not cheap to do the first time...so why would you take the chance for another $80.00 bucks. Just trying to help you out my friend.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Epoxy is old tech, one step above lacquer. I use real acid etch (not spray can crap) PPG 171 apply filler over bare metal and use a good urethane primer. If you have a complete blasted car, epoxy is the only option. Doing it panel by panel stripping by DA or chemical, I see no need for epoxy. You have to watch the film build on the epoxy. Any product tht can sit in a cut with its catalyst and not harden after 1 day is going to cause issues if applied too thick. I have never had a problem with filler blistering off bare metal, now over DP90 is another story. I have ground out previous repairs of Duraglass used to fill dents, and there was surface rust starting underneath.

 

[onefastgn]

Epoxy is old tech, one step above lacquer. I use real acid etch (not spray can crap) PPG 171 apply filler over bare metal and use a good urethane primer. If you have a complete blasted car, epoxy is the only option. Doing it panel by panel stripping by DA or chemical, I see no need for epoxy. You have to watch the film build on the epoxy. Any product tht can sit in a cut with its catalyst and not harden after 1 day is going to cause issues if applied too thick. I have never had a problem with filler blistering off bare metal, now over DP90 is another story. I have ground out previous repairs of Duraglass used to fill dents, and there was surface rust starting underneath.

you must think you know more than Toyota, Mercedes and Porsche and VWand Audi engineers then because its what they recommend on all there repairs. We could go round and round about this but this is what i do because i dont want to have something come back down the line that is a custom paint job. If the customer is paying for a outstanding paint job i want to give them the best that i can peroid. Not trying to start a war about this i was just trying to educate. Sure Ive done it both ways i just prefer to do it with epoxy primer on the higher paying jobs just to make sure there is corrision protection on the bare metal before bondo is applied.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

The paint companies know more than the auto companies, and they say don't even use epoxy unless you have blasted metal.

Bottomline is, either way will work, just let the epoxy dry overnight and don't load it on. One medium coat. If you have small break throughs, you don't really have to worry about it.

 

[onefastgn]

The paint companies know more than the auto companies, and they say don't even use epoxy unless you have blasted metal.

Bottomline is, either way will work, just let the epoxy dry overnight and don't load it on. One medium coat. If you have small break throughs, you don't really have to worry about it.

Yep your right they both work. It's all personal preference. Good advice on the epoxy. I hope he has good luck either way he does it. Take care.

 

[st1nger]

here's old school why not strip it, lead fill, shape, sand and prime acid etch

 

[sand1]

thiers a cheaper way buy 1 quart of finish 1 etch primer 25 bucks a quart then u can 2k prime oer it