what you think of this combo?

[Cleaner13]

lets put it this way
I want the car to be the ultimate sleeper
even though GNs and T-types already have that

I will strip the car all I can as long as it maintains a stock look to it and nothing obvious taken out like back seats or ****
the only weight loss I have done thus far is the hollow front sway bar, alum wheel drums, removed the sound deadner in the rear seat and I just received those alum brackets for the front bumper

I will not, repeat will not go to fiberglass doors as this compromises safety
however I can do that with bumpers, and maybe hood and trunk
not sure where to go after that
if I can get the weight down, I can obviously achieve these times much easier
the big dog in my area is a 89 GT with 500hp or so
there was some other kid with and LS1 that was undefeated until last weekend when we met at a light

anyways you guys who are my age (19) and those who were my age years ago know what I am trying to do
I want to be the fastest of my town and maybe make some money off these people here

thanks again guys everyone always helps

Carl

 

[JToups386]

Dang!!! This thread grew into an endless road...
My simple suggestion is that a 3200 stall is not going to be enough to take you where you want to go. I'd suggest a 3600 to maximize your planned combo. As you know, we make most of our ET in the 60', and a 3200 is not going to allow you to get into your best powerband for a hard launch, IMO.

 

[RobV6]

Thank You

Hey guys, thanks for helping me out. Needed that support and learned a lot for myself....I'm not 19.

I plan on going with steel caps or girded block. Steel ported heads. Already see that the 009's I bought will be too small.

But for a low 11 second car. I guess I'll be asking when time comes. This will be my sleeper. A white Limited with all the chrome.
Nice to learn from guys like you who have done it. My last GN stolen, was only a 12.18 car. So the ride I got in the other was like night and day.

Again thanks for the support. It was needed and greatly appreciated ......

 

[HRpartsNstuff]

Originally posted by JToups386
Dang!!! This thread grew into an endless road...
My simple suggestion is that a 3200 stall is not going to be enough to take you where you want to go. I'd suggest a 3600 to maximize your planned combo. As you know, we make most of our ET in the 60', and a 3200 is not going to allow you to get into your best powerband for a hard launch, IMO.

I would have to kinda disagree on that issue. I went 11.0's with a stock converter, could have used some more at the time. After swapping several things, I was doing my best of 10.70's with a 4000 stall non-lockup. It launched like mad, but seemed to rpm the whole run for nothing. I then switched to a 3000/3200 stall (0) pump lockup (both vigelante) and it went 10.80's with low 1.4 60 ft's. It was a tad less violent off the line, but still wheels in the air & hauling butt. I REALLY liked the lower stall for daily driving & the lockup really helped on the highway & WOT blasts. I would never switch back. PS_ I could get 3600 on it at 15psi & 3800 at 20+, so it's all relative. I guess I agree that you need 3600 rpm for a good launch, but not a 3600 stall converter to do it with.

Also, a probably bigger thing to consider is the tire size. If you don't have max traction available, high stall puts the motor in it's torque peak & just blows the tires away. You will have to get good at launching it on the street anyway, but higher stall makes it harder with limited traction.

Hope that helps without wetting down anyone's cheerios

 

[JToups386]

Paul:
You are an exception to the rule. My statement was based "in general", that most people's combos would need around 3600 w/ slicks to obtain the goals he's shooting for. Like everything we analyze and debate on this board, it is all relative... Many pieces, many factors, many varied results. I will say however, you're the only person I've ever seen to say they went 11.0's on a stock converter. I would imagine it was ready to explode at any moment! The stock 12" converters just do not have strong enough clutch surfaces within them to withstand that kind of power. If you pulled that off, then I'd have to say "you da' man!"
I agree with the driveability factor of a tighter lockup converter, and certainly prefer it myself. It just sounds to me like Rob is wanting to leave like a rocket, and I think he'd have a better chance of doing it with a higher stall.
Thanks for the additional input. I'm impressed with your results!!!

 

[NoNos38]

Actually, The Stock converter has proven itself to be a some what stought (tough) converter.. (In reason). There have been several guys that run a stock converter deep into the 11's and faster, cutting 1.60's and lower.. Its all in the Combo.. Now, If someone tryed it with a 70 series (Hair Dryer) it would be a differant story.. I know Ken Moser runs a stocker in his 3600+ l/b buick , and is deep in the 11's.
Matt

 

[ThikStik]

Reliability is not a terribly big problem when putting the power to a stock converter. In fact, by its own design, if it cannot multiply tork because of its low stall rating, it cannot "hurt itself" from excess heat and mechanical stress. "Bent" fins are the only mod on many perf converters. Bigger sprags, and thrust bearings are the like on better perf converters. Furnaced Brazed fins are more for fluid sealing than for strength. The fluid sealing helps efficiency. Similiarly, a deep gear in a trans or rearend which multiplies tork more, becomes more stressed and becomes a weaker link.

 

[REDS HOT AIR]

once I got to pushing my boat to 120+ trap speeds I went thru 3 stock d5's then I got one from bruce (WE4) and it took the beating...but steped up to the 9-11 now.