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What's FRAM's oil filter# = AC PF52

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Motorking, thank you very much for visiting our board and sharing your knowledge and experience. Like you said, lots of mis-information and bad info has been spread here, and other boards about oiling systems, oil and filters.

For over 30 years I have studied and experienced oils and all the other items that keep our engines alive, and many opinions or statements are very broad and not specific, and do not pertain to the narrow range of use how the vehicle is being operated.

Our turbo engines are "performance" oriented from the factory, and as soon as we modify them, another level of requirements would be needed.

For years now, we have done specific mods to our cars and engines to help make the live longer. I look at 3 levels of performance in the turbo Buicks, street, street/strip and race cars.

In the hundreds of engines we have built, and the many cars we have constructed and modified, we have NOT had a failure due to oiling problems. :)

As I have stated, we, and many other local racers, have used the Fram racing filters with no problems.

In our higher HP and RPM race cars, we use a full-flow filter, some are cleanable stainless, with no by-pass. We by-pass the oil at the pump returning it to the pan so no unfiltered oil gets to the engine or turbo.

For street cars, and street/strip cars, we have specific mods we perform to the oiling system to provide the necessary protection.

Again, thanks for your input. :biggrin:

Good Morning,
I am no stranger to fast Buicks, my DD is a 2000 Regal with 350hp to the wheels. In fact, my coworker who teaches and trains for Autolite is Dave Buckshaw, former owner of DHP, he has tuned some of the fastest buicks out there. Dave and I build turbo cars all the time. I also own a 10 second street driven 67 Mustang and a modified 2004 CTS-V. My point is this, the ranter auto shop teacher eliminated his bypass and then runs a high efficiency inexpensive pass car Fram filter and collapes the media, this is the fault of the filter? Then he goes on to say he spends as much time as possible telling his students our filters are crap. I have to say something about that, plain and simple. We make hi flow race filters for those kinds of applications. And to the other poster, I do actaully get paid to join forums and speak about Fram, Prestone and Autolite, also Garret, all of these are Honeywell owned companies. My credentials are I own a hot rod shop- Motorkingracing in Michigan for 22 years, I am a degreed mechanical engineer and have been a ASE master tech for 30 years with L1 certification. I work on cars every day, love fast cars, love the industry and cant believe I have a job that allows me to enjoy my passion every day.

We make a quality street filter for HP street driven cars, yes it costs 8-10 bucks but is a bargain compared to Mobil 1, Amsoil or K+N filters that are at or more than 13.00 each. It is called extended guard, its in a gold colored can. That filter has a full synthetic glass two ply media wrapped around a stainless steel screen with metal end caps, a full flow bypass and silicone antidrainback valve, I never see anyone cutting those open on the internet.

We also make a full line of racing filters as well. the problem we see over and over on the internet is the GM guy who eliminates his bypass, then uses a 3.50$ Fram filters with 95% efficiency and collapses the media cartridge when the 50W racing oil he is using wont go through the hi efficiency filter. It is a classic mistake I see over and over. Why doesnt this happen to some other brands? Their efficiency is far lower so flow numbers are higher. The standard Fram filter you buy for 3-4 bucks is a good filter for use with dino oil and a 3-4k change interval on a regular old passenger car. We make four other models of filters yet all I ever see anyone talking about is the standard filter.

Last but not least, our sales are not down, actually they are up becuase people are taking better care of their cars in this economy. I appreciate being able to get on this forum and thank all of you (even the haters) for listening.
Peace!
 
Maybe I missed where turbodave said he actually eliminated his bypass or is that an ass*sumption? MotorKing its pretty futile, nobody in here is claiming that the race filters you make are bad, in fact most have said they are a great filter. Its the off the shelf ones that we all know are low quality. 95% of these Buicks aren't special oiling system wise and most use off the shelf filters of other brands with no issues. There is no way that our little buick oil pumps that put out 20 psi hot idle on a good day and 60 psi under higher rpms should stress even an off the shelf basic filter.
 
Good Morning,

We make a quality street filter for HP street driven cars, yes it costs 8-10 bucks but is a bargain compared to Mobil 1, Amsoil or K+N filters that are at or more than 13.00 each. It is called extended guard, its in a gold colored can. That filter has a full synthetic glass two ply media wrapped around a stainless steel screen with metal end caps, a full flow bypass and silicone antidrainback valve, I never see anyone cutting those open on the internet.

!

<Self agrandizing and advertising clipped>

While the HP filter may be all you say, The one thing you're out of touch on is the cost of the competition. I've never paid anywhere near $13.00 for any of those, including the K&N I use (HP2001). They're more near the $10.00 cost you quote for your brand.
 
AJ,

If you want to use Fram, on your setup I would recommend the Fram HP11 racing filter. That is the equivelant of the PH3980. It does have a built in bypass that opens at 22psi pressure differential. this allows your engine to get oil regardless of whether the meida can pass oil or not. It also has a stainless screen over the bypass to keep chunnks out of your turbo if things do come apart.
Have a great day.:biggrin:

i've never seen an HP11 filter on a store shelf anywhere. the only Fram HP filter i've ever seen is the HP1 (i think that's what it is) Ford filter.
i guess it could be special ordered, but why bother when any good parts store will have the good Wix or NAPA Gold filter that people use in extremely fast and powerful engines right on hand for around $5?.. hell, i know of a place that has a really good selection of K&N filters on hand in their automotive section for $8- and they are primarily a farm supply store that only has a few aisles dedicated to their car stuff.
as for the 'better' Fram Extra Guard filters- i'm not going to spend an extra $3 for a filter that looks identical in every way to the cheap Fram filter other than the paint. it might have different guts, but what you can see when you look at the business end of the filter looks like the same cheap crap compared to a similar Wix filter.
 
for the newbies

Wix 51036 - kragen/oreillys auto
Napa gold 1036

both around 6 bucks.
 
what is the criteria that determines if a race filter or street filter should be used.

is a regular fram filter sufficient for a street car and how does it compare to other off the shelf filters.
 
How are the purolater pure one filters? They claim 99% efficiency but maybe that's not good. Does it restrict oil flow? I've been using them as they are the most reasonably priced, $5.99, premium filter I've found. I ran Fram Tough Gaurd 3980s for years though with good luck. I have 60k now on a stock engine, and I race it regularly. I'd probably still run Frams but I can't find the TG line anymore.
 
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