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what's next for my mostly stock GN

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thanks guys. seems i'm not far off from where I want to be. Already have plug wires and boost controller (not a fan of the type of B-C so will change it out eventually)

Here's what I will start with.
-Scantool (on order) INSTALLED and ordered PWERLOGGER
-Fuel pressure gauge (on order) NOT GOING TO MOUNT A PERMANENT ONE. CHECKED AND @43lbs.
-Fuel Pump (on order) WALBRO 255LPH INSTALLED AND FP ADJUSTED
-Hotwire kit. (on order) RACETRONIX - INSTALLED. REALLY WELL MADE KIT
-timing chain & springs TIMING CHAIN IS READY TO BE INSTALLED. WHAT SPRINGS SHOULD I GET?
Injectors and chip. (probably go 60lbs with TT chip) ORDERED THE 60lbs AND A TT ALKY CHIP.

I will then contact Julio from Alky to see what we can do with my current tank setup, and change to his pump, controller over the winter while keeping my current tank. NEED TO GET OUT AND MEASURE THE CURRENT HOSE SO I CAN HAVE A BRAIDED MADE UP BY JULIO

I also ordered the following from Kirban
160 DEG STAT
HD Intercooler clamps
Replacement 8" K&N filter.
PCV valve (to have in stock).

What should a setup like this on 94 + alky run on street tires? on DR?
BLM are a little low. around 118-119? Tune or something else hidden?
 
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I bought my GN, the first time, with 17,611 on the odometer in '06. My plan was to keep it mostly stock and just enjoy it. :banghead:

My mods are pretty mild and really improved my enjoyment of the car. Do one thing at a time so if issues start you can sort them quickly.
 
Most just do the LT1 springs. Power Plate is another simple mod for a stocker.
Exhaust/downpipe. Once you get the meth kit, that will wake up the car big time.
LT1 meter and translator.. is another no brainer.
HD hoses and clamps. HD boost actuator.
Surprised you don't do the regular GN kit as it comes.. this requires no mods to the car and can be put back to OEM in the future if needed. Not that I won't help with the trunk setup.. just its complicating a simple procedure.. just saying.
 
You could have 120s on there, it really doesn't matter because you control how much fuel via the chip, reg.

Sent while curing depression with boost.


How would you control 120's at idle with the chip .. please tell me ...

Also with 120's I assume you are talking low impedance so he will need a ECM mod... or are you referring to the high impedance 120's that are almost $1000 bucks a set and don't give you crap over the 80's other than dumping in another $750 bucks

Why would he need even 80's for what he is trying to do ??? Even 60's are overkill !!
 
...Why would he need even 80's for what he is trying to do ??? Even 60's are overkill !!

If it doesn't cost more, why leave the possibility of needing injectors again down the road? E85 for example if he decides to dabble in it so 80's all the way.
 
If it doesn't cost more, why leave the possibility of needing injectors again down the road? E85 for example if he decides to dabble in it so 80's all the way.


That's like saying just get a 70 turbo if you ever need it or for down the road if its the same price ... this is exactly why people get into driveablity and performance problems .. by not matching the correct parts to their goals..

And there are a lot of reasons not to run a big injector on a car that doesn't need it .... as much as I think the 80's are the ticket on E85 and are an excellent injector I wouldn't put a 12 second car running on GAS into a set.


with what he is trying to do 60's ARE PLENTY and OVERKILL .. he really doesn't need anything beyond a 36# injector when his goals change and he uses up the stock turbo .. then he can match the injector to his new goals .. resell his old injectors. He will have to redo the chip anyway once he starts changing major parts.

Does it really make sense for him to put 9 second injectors on a 12 second car ?
Does it really make sense with the goals he has defined of being on the street cruising 95% of the time to put in a part that he wont ever use to 40% of its capacity the 1-2 times he goes to the track ?

Installing OVERKILL / MISMATCHED parts and crappy tunes is exactly what makes these cars turds
 
That's like saying just get a 70 turbo if you ever need it or for down the road if its the same price ... this is exactly why people get into driveablity and performance problems .. by not matching the correct parts to their goals..

And there are a lot of reasons not to run a big injector on a car that doesn't need it .... as much as I think the 80's are the ticket on E85 and are an excellent injector I wouldn't put a 12 second car running on GAS into a set.


with what he is trying to do 60's ARE PLENTY and OVERKILL .. he really doesn't need anything beyond a 36# injector when his goals change and he uses up the stock turbo .. then he can match the injector to his new goals .. resell his old injectors. He will have to redo the chip anyway once he starts changing major parts.

Does it really make sense for him to put 9 second injectors on a 12 second car ?
Does it really make sense with the goals he has defined of being on the street cruising 95% of the time to put in a part that he wont ever use to 40% of its capacity the 1-2 times he goes to the track ?

Installing OVERKILL / MISMATCHED parts and crappy tunes is exactly what makes these cars turds

That's actually a bad analogy. A bigger turbo than needed hurts performance. 80's in no way hurt the performance of a car. Try again.
 


Such as? Because this is the premise of my point.


because it becomes much harder to control the injector and your operating it in an area it doesn't want to be ... hence poor driveability !!!

80 # injectors on GAS in a 12 second car ... come on ... that's silly and you know it
 
because it becomes much harder to control the injector and your operating it in an area it doesn't want to be ... hence poor driveability !!!

80 # injectors on GAS in a 12 second car ... come on ... that's silly and you know it

It is not silly. The 80's drive and idle as well as any other injector. What is your point here? You clearly have no experience with the new 80's available for stock ecm. They are affordable, drive right, and allow room for growth even if you don't need it. You stated before that he'd need a new chip eventually and could upgrade injectors at that time. Why not do it once? I'll retract when you have actual proof of 80's somehow making the car less driveable.
 
It is not silly. The 80's drive and idle as well as any other injector. What is your point here? You clearly have no experience with the new 80's available for stock ecm. They are affordable, drive right, and allow room for growth even if you don't need it. You stated before that he'd need a new chip eventually and could upgrade injectors at that time. Why not do it once? I'll retract when you have actual proof of 80's somehow making the car less driveable.


Clearly you have very little tuning experience or you wouldn't be offering this advice ... The 80's are great injectors no questions...
but they don't belong in a stock type GN ... and if you cant understand what the issue of running a injector @ 35 % DC is .. then I don't need to elaborate anymore ..

The OP can do as he wishes .. I think if he talks to people that tune for a living that he will know what injector he really needs to have for his goals at this time.
 
Clearly you have very little tuning experience or you wouldn't be offering this advice ... The 80's are great injectors no questions...
but they don't belong in a stock type GN ... and if you cant understand what the issue of running a injector @ 35 % DC is .. then I don't need to elaborate anymore ..

The OP can do as he wishes .. I think if he talks to people that tune for a living that he will know what injector he really needs to have for his goals at this time.

More opinions. How many cars have you driven with the new style 80's? I've been in three now. They all drive like my 60's in my car which drive way better than any stock injectored car I've ever been in yet. There is nothing wrong with running a disc style injector at 35%DC. They run a lot lower than that at idle and are very smooth.

Please elaborate on your extensive knowledge in this area.

I've heard 80's and E85 on an otherwise stock car is a hoot!
 
And you clearly do need to elaborate more as I'm sure I'm not the only dummy reading this...

I honestly have no idea what's wrong with running at 35%DC so please explain.
 
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I run 80s with a stock turbo. Drove from Nick Micale's house to Denver, no prob. My 2¢.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
And stop with the personal insults. We are all looking for data to support your claims rather than unbacked statements as to your tuning abilities. What is your combo and how fast do you run? How many street miles do you run and with what injectors? What problems or benefits have you encountered as a result?
 
Most just do the LT1 springs. Power Plate is another simple mod for a stocker.
Exhaust/downpipe. Once you get the meth kit, that will wake up the car big time.
LT1 meter and translator.. is another no brainer.
HD hoses and clamps. HD boost actuator.
Surprised you don't do the regular GN kit as it comes.. this requires no mods to the car and can be put back to OEM in the future if needed. Not that I won't help with the trunk setup.. just its complicating a simple procedure.. just saying.


already have exhaust on it.
It does not have the stock MAF - i think LS1.

Sent you an email for the regular GN kit. I think you're right.
 
How would you control 120's at idle with the chip .. please tell me ...

Also with 120's I assume you are talking low impedance so he will need a ECM mod... or are you referring to the high impedance 120's that are almost $1000 bucks a set and don't give you crap over the 80's other than dumping in another $750 bucks

Why would he need even 80's for what he is trying to do ??? Even 60's are overkill !!

wow you really get pissed at anyone elses opinion that is not your own.
 
Since you said it was a purely street driven car I would do the spring cleaning stuff mentioned here

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html

and get the scanmaster in. I would also go through all the old vacuum hoses and replace any that looked suspicious and wire tie all the connections. Double check the intercooler hose connections as well and make sure they are good. The rest of the tips already posted will get you well on your way but these are commonly taken for granted and dont cost much if any.
 
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