I hear a lot of people locking up their rear wheels with those S10 kits. I still have mine sitting on the shelf from 5 years ago. I'm afraid of locking up the rears. If you're trying to increase your track times from improving your launch, you're going to need a really good tire. And whoever told you about not changing your factory valve springs doesn't know springs very well. Don't do that. Change those springs. If they're from 1987 (probably from 86) I promise you you're leaving a lot of time on the table at the track. Since you only have a few miles on that car, make sure you keep zddp in that oil, with a good filter and your stock cam should be ok. But before you go turning up the wick, I'm telling you you better put brace kits 6756, 6744, 6564, and especially 1586, the rear seat brace kit. These are kirbans part numbers. They'll keep your body from twisting up and cracking in certain places.
After all of that along with your reliability mods (brakes, valve springs, timing chain, vac lines, intercooler cleanse, etc etc) put a big rear sway in and get tires. You really won't need much else. A bone stocker with a translator, power plate and alky kit is really all that's needed for a really fun car that can beat a lot of other cars while not becoming a money pit. As long as you have tires of course. As far as the trans is concerned Lonnie says to run a deeper pan with the 700 filter and trick shift fluid in the trans. That should help her out for a stocker.
Also, can anyone shine more light on the really weird condition of running super rich but still having the blm's at 118? How can both exist simultaneously? 118 means it's pulled the fuel and made the correction. So then how is it still rich? From all these pages on this board, I've always read that it has to be one or the other. A higher blm means it's adding fuel. That would make the car run a little rich. If the number went down, it should be running better, or lean. How do you get both?
