Whats the best header sealant

[Clark6]

Im takin mine off in the morning i have a crack on the passenger side weld on the first exhaust port. when i put them back on im using the same red,orange whatever tube you call it in the above post above you because im confident it will work go to autozone,walmart,or napa only 9 or 10 bucks what have you got to lose i dont get it on the inside ports just the center and a little on the outside , finger tight slowly onto the block for an hour, then i go out and torque it tight. for about 4 or 5hrs. to slightly cure... crank it listen for leaks on all sides, if it does you can tell, if no leaks i shut it of quickly for the 24hrs. or the next day rather to fully cure and your done. if you done it right. (no gasket)

 

[cool 84]

I tried the 1400's dry and no luck, has anybody tried the caterpillar sealant yet, or am I going to be the 1st one, if I go ahead and try this stuff should I use a gasket with it if so wich one , copper, 1400's, or no gasket

Something is wrong. I've only used red RTV and never had a header leak in the past 10 years and 3 motors. Something has to be warped or cracked or something.

 

[tom j]

I going to try some rtv with the 1400's and if it doesnt work I am going to have the headers machined down

 

[turbojimmy]

The RTV will just burn out it's simple math. The exhaust on these cars gets twice as hot as the highest rated RTV. If you're using RTV and it's working it's because you didn't need it in the first place.

There is not supposed to be a gasket between the header and head nor the turbo and the header. If things are machined properly you won't need one. Earlier this year, using a flat file I was finally able to seal my turbo-header joint up without using any goop or a gasket.

I've been using Fel Pro 1400s on the headers. I have to replace the passenger side one every 6 months. It blows out in the same fargin' spot every time. #6 tube, head side of the gasket, at the very back. This time I'm going to try VaderV6's method if i can get a stone back on that head.

Jim

 

[oddfire6]

i agree no gasket needed. something is warped or maby a piece of weld causing the hedder to not sit flat on the head...

 

[turbojimmy]

Here is my 'thousand words':

Every 6 months it blows in this spot. I can barely see the head back there but it has to be something that can be ground down. I just ordered up my 'bench stone' (and some 1400s just in case

Jim

 

[tom j]

I put a straight edge on the headers and they are not straight so they are going off to the machine shop, here is the kicker my head is not straight either from one port to the other. Has anybody ever cut the header flange between ports to allow it to mate flat on the individual ports or is this just a stupid idea. I really would hate to have to pull the heads off if this doesnt solve my problem

 

[Lhorn]

I'v e seen it done on other headers for other cars. As long as there is a bolt on each side of each port to provide adequate clamping force, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Personally, I'd just have a shop machine them flat.

 

[tom j]

I am going to have the headers done it's just the heads not being straight is why I am considering it

 

[Clark6]

funny you mentioned the cutting flange i was at work and someone suggested that i cut mine this morning SO i cut it , gonna put it on tommorow and see whats up, i fixed the crack that was up front on the last primary tube, that went up fine. put them on the car & the back was leaking as i had a guy go over the back one as it looked as if it was gonna crack, i think he got it too hot and drew it in a little makin if off a little. so i took it back off & at work i cut the flange gonna try to mount that side first with a copper gasket between that one only then work my way up to tightening the last two. i'll let you know how it turn out id hate to buy new ones oh yeah the red sealant ive been using is rated only to 650deg. so the guys were right. I LOVE INFORMATION, THEY SAY KNOWLEGE IS POWER, SO THANKS GUYS, :tongue:

 

[ChrisCairns]

Liquid sealants don't do ****. Too much heat and they turn into powder.

Do what the GM engineers did...make certain the surfaces are flat and bolt them on.

 

[need boost]

clark6 you still hammering my old motor huh lol!!!! Glad she is kicking butt still on the track! As far as the red rvt you were using, I have used it for years! Everyone has their opion on everything here but here is mine. If the matting surfaces are true then yes, it should seal fine with nothing. Now, how many do you know of that have never been machined are still going to be perfect after almost 20 years of use and no telling how many heat cycles???? Not to many I would think. I use the red rvt on every motor I build on the exhaust manifolds but I put on a THIN layer . All its for is to fill in the pin holes and such you will get over time and use. Will it burn up? Heck yeah it will, but if it is sandwiched between 2 pieces of metal it can't go anywhere and will keep it sealed. Vaders advice about grease is an interesting aproach that I haven't thought of before and it makes perfect sence to me also so I might have to try that someday. The only way I have ever had one leak is if something is really warped up good. A old trick with the paper gaskets was to soak them overnight in a bucket of water to swell them up and then put them on. I makes them form to YOUR set up perfect but I hate paper gaskets anyway lol. I have run the coppers on a few motors and I have had great luck with them myself. Bottom line is a lot of things work good if you just have wear like pin spots and such over time and casting flaws but if something is warped up then you really will just have to have it machined smooth to work or you will fight with it forever. On a side note though, Emily just bought me a set of ET drags so I will be coming over to douglas soon to turn her loose at the track, maybe I will catch you there one friday night. Later Daniel Ray

 

[turbojimmy]

I've been on vacation, but returned to find my bench stone waiting for me. I put a straight edge across both the header and head and they appear straight. With a mirror I could see that there was some gasket material stuck on the #6 exhaust port which may have been causing my problem all along. I rubbed the stone lightly across the offending port and header to clean it up. I'm going to put a light coat of wheel bearing grease on both surfaces. One question: Does the wheel bearing grease trick work on the turbo-to-header joint as well? I think mine's really close so a little grease might seal it up.

Jim

 

[turbojimmy]

I put wheel bearing grease on the header, head, and turbo/header area. Put it back together and got no leaks. No gaskets and no leaks. Nice!

I have to admit that I did have a pair of new FelPros and a new turbo gasket on standby just in case. Don't need them tho!

Thanks for the tip VadersV6!

Jim

 

[Super6]

cat 2p-2333

i got my hands on some of this stuff but it wasn't $10...i wish it would have been...paid a bill for it but it should last a long time...comes in a 16 oz paint can and is like a metalic paste. i put a dab on a beer cap and it set up hard. You would have to be careful not to get any in the headers...your turbo and you wouldn't be happy....i am going to heat it tonight to see how hot it will get but i think it will pass that test easy....i should have my car moving next weekend with this on the headers...i will post my findings.................Bob

 

[tom j]

I got the headers machined, felpro 1400's and a light coat of copper sealant and no leaks, thanks guys

 

[Clark6]

ok guys, tom j if you have to do it again heres the ticket and it WORKS.
in my earlier post i told you i cut the flange on the last back port , put it on, the car quieted down some but still leaked. getting frustrated i called napa asked how much would they charge to flat grind the flanged .he thought about it & acted as if he didnt really want to do it & said you can only cut so far on headers as it may mess up the entering ports & making the flange thin isnt good so i was planning on buyin me some more headers if this didnt work. so i got on the net & went to www.remflex.com called them and they said guaranteed not to leak or money back said they were made for warped headers (at the flanged) with hole around 1/8 of gap or less. took the headers off a 3rd time after the gaskets came in (kinda thick though)put them on and new bolts and washers---QUIET AS A MOUSE very satisfied they're high though $30.15 8.00 shp & handling but hey beats a 600.00 pair of headers so i thought they were worth it myself here's the pic & part# try this next time if all else fails .