When converting a regular Regal....

[Joe Kelsch]

I'm a worker!!! Those pics prove it

 

[RATROASTER]

I like the way this is looking...... Damn thing even chirps the tires going into 2nd with a 3.42

 

[87buickracer]

Installed my Metco G-body driveshaft loop. Later today, I'll get my drum brakes back together with aluminum drums, purge all the brakes lines and convert to silicon brake fluid and then maybe I'll take a break for a day or two and try to figure out how I want to build my short block.......

Looks like rust under car near drivshaft loop.this would be a good time to sand area and paint/rustproof under car while it's on jack stands.hope this helps.

 

[RATROASTER]

Looks like rust under car near drivshaft loop.this would be a good time to sand area and paint/rustproof under car while it's on jack stands.hope this helps.

......I'll wack it with some POR15.

 

[turbofish38]

8.5 is in. What color are the gas tanks supposed to be on these cars? Are they 100% black, Black on top & silver on bottom, or 100% silver?

There is no set color. I've seen on the 84-86 cars the bottom part painted black. I've never seen an 87 painted black, they were all natural or silver. The one on my 86 GN is painted black.The are 2 silver foil insulators covering up were the internal sump and baffle are bolted at. If you decide to paint it black these need to be left unpainted to make it politically correct from a restoration point of view.

 

[RATROASTER]

There is no set color. I've seen on the 84-86 cars the bottom part painted black. I've never seen an 87 painted black, they were all natural or silver. The one on my 86 GN is painted black.The are 2 silver foil insulators covering up were the internal sump and baffle are bolted at. If you decide to paint it black these need to be left unpainted to make it politically correct from a restoration point of view.

Thanks for the help, right now the NA car has a 100% black tank from the factory. The T-type appears to be all natural, but it has some surface and a severe dent, so I won't reuse the tank. I just want to keep this car factory appearing and tasteful and not look hokey like some of the other conversion cars I've seen.

 

[RATROASTER]

Another step forward. My 200R4 is back after a rebuild from Janis Transmissions in Akron. Its time to start buying up parts for the motor and nail down an after marked turbo and torque converter.

 

[RATROASTER]

I have taken a few months off from the project and just this week I started to put some effort into it. The motor is now on an engine stand.... :biggrin:

 

[RATROASTER]

That's not the complete story. I also cleaned up my gas tank and painted it hammered silver. Can anyone tell me where I may pickup the formed rubber fuel line hoses?

 

[RATROASTER]

I picked up a set of lower control arms from Rick & Kristi at BPG Nats and installed them last night.

 

[RATROASTER]

Here's a pic of me prior to the installation. Notice I'm still smiling. I makes a huge difference if you have someone around to just operate the jack. I didn't!

 

[RATROASTER]

Since I am waiting for parts from the powder coater, I decided to pick up something to keep me entertained in the interim.

 

[Ormand]

Depending on what radiator you get, it may solve the problem of missing oil cooler and tranny cooler. Or at least one of them. The fan on the front of the engine is the intercooler fan, and if you end up with a front mount, you don't need it. Dash wiring harness is needed, IF you want the stock boost gauge and tach to work, which is not very useful, since neither of them is ever right. (I guess you know that) Wiring back to the tail lights is needed only if you want to use it for the fuel pump. Again, not a real strong reason, since you can accomplish the same thing with a hot wire set-up. Since you're going with manual steering, I guess this will be a race car? That makes some other things easier. Like brakes. Nobody mentioned the wiring for the PowerMaster!

 

[RATROASTER]

Ormand, interesting you metioned the Powermaster. I never even thought of using it, I just assumed the vacuum setup I had would work. If I stick with vacuum are their any mods I am going to need to do? Would it be easier to switch back to the Powermaster since I have it? This car won't be a full out race car. I guess it just comes naturally for a 455 guy to put manual steering in car. :biggrin: Although I may reconsider this move after the car is together. I've also inspected my AC venting and the upper fiberglass piece is shattered. I may go with a nonAC vent unit.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

seems to be coming along pretty good!
I like the WE4, looks just like my dads WE4 ( they all look alike )

Just leave the vacuum brakes in the car, no need for the powermaster.

All your going to need to run the vacuum brakes in the boosted car is the vacuum block on top of the throttle body. You will be needing one from the TTA, get the one with the extra tit on the drivers side for vacuum brakes
BW

 

[RATROASTER]

You want to know why so many Regals have broken power antennas? This is why, you've got to take the whole fender off to get to it! I still finished it last night. Now I need to figure out what is up with my cornering lights. Light bulbs are good, and no voltage to the sockets. Could it be a bad turn signal switch?

 

[RATROASTER]

I just picked up some parts from my powder coater.....

 

[RATROASTER]

Here are my stock headers after jet-hot. What an improvement!

 

[bikeaddict]

nobody answered the question about why you have to swap out the tail light harness and dash harness? I still don't see the reason for this.

 

[Quiky One]

Looks great!

Jason