Where do i find an adj. wastegate to go over 20 lbs of boost??



I want to get one for my alky kit, but its gonna be for for a stock 87 turbo?
every vendor carries one. I'd post in the parts wanted 1st, or you can easily makeyour own for like $10. I think the directions are somewhere on www.gnttype.org
most of the ones in the parts wanted are modified stock ones that don't go over 20 lbs i think.
man you crack me up--
keep the stock wastegate- dont even touch it, go to Graingers and buy this part-
its a parker bleeder valve- all you do, is disconnect the black hose that leads to the wastegate solenoid on the pass side valve cover, and put it inplace of it-
this will give you total controll of boost, and you dont have to get your hand hot by adjusting your wastegate rod!!!
the vavle is 13.00 and dont for get the 1/8 male hose barb to make it work-
yes the valve has a inline check valve for controlled boost-
Modified stock ones will easily go over 20 psi. Just bust out the hacksaw and cut a little off the rod. You should be able to get 24 or so psi out of a stock one and still have enough rod left over to work normally. This is more than enough boost to blow up you car with pump gas and alchy.

If you go the HD actuator route, you won't be able to run less than 18 psi of boost with the stock set up, so when you run out of alchy, your only boost control will be the throttle blade and your right foot angle. too much right foot angle = detonation.
if u look the part up in the graingers book it #4A788A
the parker # is PF200B
i cant tell you how to look it up at the webpage but the book shows it at 4A788A
it has a check valve and it only goes on one way--
hth wanner@kc.rr.com
this is kind of a dumb question, but how does this work? is this like a blow off valve? i know the imprort cars are using them but i never hear to much about them with turbo regals? i already have an adjustable wastegate on my gn, i am just curious to how this works, how do you set your boost level with the bleeder valve?
I believe the air is bled through the manual adjustable valve instead of the electronic wastegate solenoid.

The more that gets bled either by manually opening the valve or electronically by the chip and wastegate solenoid the higher the boost goes.
yes- what salvage said-

you use the grainger vavle instead of the factory solenoid-
and you get any boost setting you want and it is rock solid too

nothing like a blowoff valve
sounds fairly simple, but how do you adjust the boost pressure? is the something you turn like the nut on a wastegate rod? i feel like an idiot asking these stupid questions, but if its easier to adjust boost levels and out performs the wastegate i have ill switch to the grainger valve.
there are no stupid questions--
always ask before you do something-

you can have both-- adj wastegate rod, and bleeder valve--
you turn the knob so the air escapes out the new bleeder valve, and doesnt get to the wastegate==== more boost!!

that is how the stock style wastegate works--
the more air you get TO THE WASTEGATE the less boost you will see -- so when you bleed OFF AIR (using bleeder valve)
that goes to the wastegate, you increase the boost
So after he installs a bleeder valve, what would he adjust his actuator to? Would he tighten it to where it would be around 18 lbs. or so and then adjust the bleeder to increase boost up to where he want it?
thinking about getting one 4 myself,

The Darkside:cool:
exactly-- you tighten the wastegate rod- it will help spool up, and use the bleeder to increase the boost when ever you need it
it also has a set screw so it can lock into place-
Having both the adjustable wastegate rod AND the mbc (manual boost controller) is the key.

If you keep the stock wastegate actuator, you are using the weaker diaphragm spring. You want the stiffer spring that the newer actuators come with, so stock is like 12 psi, they come in 14 psi and then 18. There is a new one coming out that has an adjustable spring, great for phat turbos and high boost. Keeps the door shut nice and tight.

I have been using my mbc for a year now, the best $50 I have spent on the car. The mbc allows you to turn IN THE ROD to get a way better spool up on the same psi level. Then use the mbc to make only minor adjustments, use the rod for more accurate boost changes. I was able to turn the rod in 2 turns on the same 17 psi with this. Car sees the same boost level 17psi, but reacts like the 19 psi level.

The mbc has way shorter lines, does not bleed off the signal at wot like the stock solenoid and does not need the chip to control boost levels, you do.

Best part is you put on a new part like a throttle body and never need to turn OUT THE ROD. You just turn the set screw on the mbc back to the psi you want, leave the rod alone, and watch the tires roast at 30 mph on hammer downs on 17 psi. :D
The low end gets better, not worse like all those times I would put a part on and the thing would creep due to the new cfm the car is pushing. So you would have turn out the rod, not good for the low end.

I recommend dual stainless ball bearing internals, more consistant and durable then grainger valves. A Grainger valve is a POS air regulator valve, like you would find in a spray gun. Things have moved on from that but both will do the trick.
Where and how are you guys mounting this Grainger valve so it doesn't rattle around?

I picked up one today at the Grainger place in town. In stock and cost about $10.50.

Thanks - Terry
And what is the MBC exactly ?? I dont think ive heard of it. I must be under my rock a little too long lately. :(