Having both the adjustable wastegate rod AND the mbc (manual boost controller) is the key.
If you keep the stock wastegate actuator, you are using the weaker diaphragm spring. You want the stiffer spring that the newer actuators come with, so stock is like 12 psi, they come in 14 psi and then 18. There is a new one coming out that has an adjustable spring, great for phat turbos and high boost. Keeps the door shut nice and tight.
I have been using my mbc for a year now, the best $50 I have spent on the car. The mbc allows you to turn IN THE ROD to get a way better spool up on the same psi level. Then use the mbc to make only minor adjustments, use the rod for more accurate boost changes. I was able to turn the rod in 2 turns on the same 17 psi with this. Car sees the same boost level 17psi, but reacts like the 19 psi level.
The mbc has way shorter lines, does not bleed off the signal at wot like the stock solenoid and does not need the chip to control boost levels, you do.
Best part is you put on a new part like a throttle body and never need to turn OUT THE ROD. You just turn the set screw on the mbc back to the psi you want, leave the rod alone, and watch the tires roast at 30 mph on hammer downs on 17 psi.

The low end gets better, not worse like all those times I would put a part on and the thing would creep due to the new cfm the car is pushing. So you would have turn out the rod, not good for the low end.
I recommend dual stainless ball bearing internals, more consistant and durable then grainger valves. A Grainger valve is a POS air regulator valve, like you would find in a spray gun. Things have moved on from that but both will do the trick.