Which C-Clip eliminator kit?

[Squid4life]

Awesome, thanks for that link brother. Not sure how I missed it when researching this the first time!? Now I am searching for backing plate bolts, which seem to only come with a new backing plate... Of which the backing plates are special order only... go figure.

 

[novaderrik]

I've used C-clip eliminator kits long ago on Camaros and Chevelles, but today we have aftermarket suppliers that can hook us up with just about anything.
If you are seriously upgrading your GM rear axle I would suggest replacing the housing ends completely and going straight to what is known as Ford ends, while your at it upgrade the drums to Fords 11 inch units if not going disc.
Good luck.

Kevin.

the 9" ends are the way to go- if you use the housing ends with a GM flange pattern, this makes all those junkyard rear disc brake swaps (LS1 Camaro, Impala/Caprice, S10) a bolt in deal..

 

[Squid4life]

Yes, I am sure that is the way to go. Maybe in the future when I have more time, money, and fab skills I can do that if needed. Right now, this is a simpler fix for me, plus I already have all the c clip elim stuff.

Another question: I am assuming the stock axle bearings need to come out. Anyone have a good trick for getting them out, other than sticking a pipe all the way through the other side? Really don't want to disturb the center section... Trying to remember if any of the typical jaw type pullers can grab hold.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Yes, I am sure that is the way to go. Maybe in the future when I have more time, money, and fab skills I can do that if needed. Right now, this is a simpler fix for me, plus I already have all the c clip elim stuff.

Another question: I am assuming the stock axle bearings need to come out. Anyone have a good trick for getting them out, other than sticking a pipe all the way through the other side? Really don't want to disturb the center section... Trying to remember if any of the typical jaw type pullers can grab hold.

Rent a bearing puller/slide hammer from advance auto/autozone. They come out easily.

 

[Squid4life]

Cool, thanks for the heads up. I Assumed someone had one of those. The Autozone store here had the axle bearing retainer puller that connected to the slide hammer, and the slide hammer as two separate rentals. Made the mistake of sending the wife to pick it up. Always have to make two trips when I do that... The guy there told me I could use the puller end with a normal hammer, no need for a slide hammer. Got to love that...

Got the bearings out, and have the axle tubes marked to cut. I am nervous about hacking 7/8" off the end of each axle tube, but that is what the directions say, cut it down to 1/8" of a nub. Also, who put a seal inside the tube? Thinking about it, just to double up the sealing. I assume it is just a touch smaller than the stock. May or may not have time to figure out what seal will work.

Also, I saw it mentioned to cut the c clip nubs off the ends of the new axles. Is that really necessary? I cannot see it being necessary, nor a good idea. Don't really feel like heating up the end of the axle if not needed. Will call Moser to verify and will post back.

 

[Squid4life]

Soooo, talked to Moser today to confirm a few things. They do suggest cutting the c clip nubs off the end of the axles so they do not have the chance of hitting/ rubbing the center pin.

Also, as mentioned in a few other threads, the template they send is absolute fricken garbage! Not even close. If you hold it up to the elim, it doesn't even match that! So, after holding the elim up, and looking through the current jacked up drilled holes and marking how much larger (elongated) the holes need to be, it looks a little scary. Take a look at the first pic, which shows how far off the template is to the elim, and the second pic that shows how much more material I need to grind out to line up the holes. Look at the black sharpie mark, I need to file/grind that all out. Hell, the holes are going to be "C" shaped with the sides open by the time I get it right. WTF?

When I look at post #16 in this thread: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...ip-eliminator-install-tips-needed-mosers.html his are not like this... Confused, pissed, annoyed, etc. Is it too late to do the Ford ends? (just kidding, sort of!)

 

[J-B Racing]

I have a Kit for Strange Axles for sale if anyone needs.

Joe

 

[BEATAV8]

Hell, the holes are going to be "C" shaped with the sides open by the time I get it right. WTF?

When I look at post #16 in this thread: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...ip-eliminator-install-tips-needed-mosers.html his are not like this... Confused, pissed, annoyed, etc. Is it too late to do the Ford ends? (just kidding, sort of!)

The way yours is drilled, it looks just like mine, at least from the pics. Maybe they shipped you the correct template but the wrong part?? Better give them a call at Moser and tell them about this mess. Either the template is wrong or the eliminator is wrong.

 

[Squid4life]

I have a Kit for Strange Axles for sale if anyone needs.

Joe

Ha ha, thanks, is that a hint!? :biggrin:

 

[Squid4life]

The way yours is drilled, it looks just like mine, at least from the pics. Maybe they shipped you the correct template but the wrong part?? Better give them a call at Moser and tell them about this mess. Either the template is wrong or the eliminator is wrong.

Yeah, just got home so am getting ready to call again and confirm. According to the part no stamped on the elim, they are correct, and the "g body small housing" on the template they are correct, but will call and confirm again. Hope I do not get the same guy I got yesterday or he will get an earful. Don't like dealing with "customer service" people who have no "customer service" skills...

 

[Squid4life]

Well, Moser said "someone must have hit 'enlarge' when they made copies of the instructions/ templates" but the parts I have are the correct ones. The 9200 elims are for stock type axles, the 9000 are for the contingency race axles which have the moser stickers on the ends. Those are also for 33 spline or higher count axles and center section. Not changing that stuff any time soon so these will have to work. Off to elongate the hell out of these holes to fit this side, then drill the other side using a template I made off the elim itself. Good times...

 

[johnplogii]

The template/pattern they sent out was off like that 4 years ago when I put mine on. I called & let them know that they needed to fix it. I see they got right on it

The job was a pain, but mine never did leak. I used the right stuff silicone rather than the tube moser included.

 

[Squid4life]

Yeah, that is my plan. Anytime I need something siliconed, it gets "the right stuff". Good stuff there!

Also, I installed the screw in studs, then checked clearance before pressing the elims on. They are supposed to be 2 3/8" from the face of the axle flange to the back of the elim. Check the pic below. With the elim sitting on the studs, the elim still needs to come down about 1/8".

Same as post #11 in this thread, the studs interfere with the elims. I saw the ".187" milled off the heads, so I thought that is what is needed now. I tried installing them without the lock washer, to see if they'd clear, but there is a shoulder on the bolt, so they need the lock washers to seat properly. So, the bolts start out at .310 thick heads. If I removed .187, that would leave only .123

The bolt on the right I ground the head down, and it is at .218 The one in the middle is at .163 I am not sure I want to turn the heads down too much further... You think it is safe???

 

[johnplogii]

When I got mine I had moser press the eliminators on for free. Didn't have to worry about any clearance problems there.

 

[Boost231]

good info,

i have strange axles and strange c-clip elims. On my screw in studs they didnt use lock washers. worked fine and clears the elims. humm

 

[Squid4life]

My studs are screw in, and they did not put them in, but if they were press in I would have definitely asked them to.

Another thought I had on the clearance issue. What about turning the bolts down to .200 or .210, then ground the corners off the elims? You can see in pic 1 where the overlap or interference would be if the elim is low enough. Pic 2 is the elim, with the corners marked in red where you could round the edges. The black line near the red line is where the threads bottom out, so I would want to keep it out of that. I guess grind the heads to a comfortable point, then grind the corners of the elims to a comfortable point, splitting the difference between the two. Input?

 

[Squid4life]

This is all just thinking out loud, asking opinions. I will call "the experts" tomorrow at Moser and see what they say. I am sure they will tell me not to touch the eliminators, and grind the heads down as needed, but again, makes me a little nervous taking so much material off.

What a mess. Need to get this back on the road. Monday it is back to being my daily driver!

I think I will do a "how to" thread after all of this.... :biggrin:

 

[Squid4life]

good info,

i have strange axles and strange c-clip elims. On my screw in studs they didnt use lock washers. worked fine and clears the elims. humm

I was hoping for the same thing, but tightening down the studs semi-tight, the heads were probably still .010 or .020 off from touching...

Why didn't you guys tell me to buy Strange elims, or go Ford ends? :biggrin:

 

[Boost231]

damn moser.

 

[Squid4life]

damn moser.

Been saying that all day!!! :biggrin: