Which injectors

Originally posted by TTA89
Your original post said you wanted mid 11s and did not want to run racegas. I don't think that is a realistic goal.

$1500 bucks for Ported Heads, Cam and Downpipe? Uhh.. Thats pretty cheap. My Heads were $1200 alone.

Mike,I dont think he's arguing that its the easiest way to get mid 11's and yes it's definatly cheaper to run those times on racegas - but if your willing to put in the money it is realistic to think you can run mid 11's on straight pumpgas.

My car again is a perfect example - ported TTA heads,214/210 cam,TE64-1 turbo,V2 intercooler,55# injectors,and a chip from Jim Testa.Nothing exotic or way out there in price.No alchy,no propane,no additives of any sort.Not to mention I'm saddled with a TH400 trans and 3.08 gears I still manage 11.4's at 115-117mph at a hefty 3630 lbs(I have scince gotten it down to 3495 and hope to see 11.3's with some better weather).

I will admit that I plan on running racegas in an attemp for 10 second slips,but just have way too much fun on pumpgas.It's a relief to be able to just drive to the track,pull right into the lanes,and without changing a thing run 11.4-11.5@115-117mph.To me its not worth the agrivation of draining the tank and the cost of spending $5-7 a gallon on racegas to run 1/2 to 3/4 of a second quicker and I think Tony feels the same.

As for your lightning story,it is possible to run into a stock or poorly running TTA ;) You know a good running stocker shoulda kept right up with a 13.2@103mph truck.I personally have no problem walking away from Z06's and Vipers on the highway with pumpgas(up to 130MPH or so as I have no overdrive).

And again,Tony just get the 50's and be done with it :D

Steve
 
I should just keep the bluetops since it seems I won't get out of the 13's unless I run race gas lol

MSD 50's it is unless 55's come up hella cheap :)
 
Steve the biggest difference is your front mount and the bigger turbo...I'm not sure how nuts I'm going on the heads...like I said low 12's on 94 will make me plenty happy
 
Originally posted by TTA89
Uh huh.. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: He aint running 26psi on straight pumpgas.

Technically yes and no :D

My gas tank was full of straight 100% Amoco Premium and zero mods to my motor have been made. With the exception of turbo, injectors, downpipe, thermostat, and valvesprings. Nothing else touched on the motor..

There is a small hose going into my up-pipe..but thats another subject.

To be honest with you guys..listen the stock injectors get maxed out in the lower 12's.. running static injectors is not a good thing..especially when theyre 14 years old.. so careful on your quests with them..upgrade now or latter..would be a pitty to damage the motor doing something avoidable.

The quest to run low 12's or 11's on pump gas..good luck..without major surgery..and at a high expense..I wouldnt bother. Not when there are cheaper alternatives. I wont pull the heads of my car..tear the motor apart unless there is a reason to do so. Sometimes the operation kills the patient. Do what you want with the car.. good luck on your rattle control and hope you see the fruits of your labor without crunching your crankshaft...cuase this is what happens when you detonate. Or you get really good at changing head gaskets. The heads never really quite seal up like when GM installed them. Once that "seal" is broken..it breaks with ease.

Steve also was running race tires and a mix(racegas/94 pump gas) still stout tho..

My car has run 13.1 at 118 :)

500 passes in the last two years..about a hundred of those in the 11's..No changes from street to race settings..

BTW.. My TTA made a 4800 lb Lightning my Biotch not too long ago on the street :p
 
Man this stuff makes me want to yank my hair out(if I had any). Most of us have are hands half tied behind our backs unless you have a full built car with all the goodies. Some guys are running stock long blocks, IC's, DP's, turbos, injectors, convetors, ect. ..ect. .ect. Now once you have your combination of stock and upgraded parts you have to look at what its going to take to meet your goals. This is pretty much going to point at power. Your going to need extra air pumped through that motor to make to make it go 11's. I know you said 12's but I dont beleave you :D . To get this extra air your going to need to either uncork the motor and make it breath better or your going to have to force more air into it, or a little of both. Now when you put this extra air in the motor your going to build more pressure and more heat. The big wall your going to hit is when the octane of that pump gas cant take any more. Thats the part that sucks, because now your spending money to repair your car instead of making it better. Now if you gave in and ran race fuel that would really help you meet your goal and be MUCH safer doing it. I think that would be cheating though, because you want to run the times in street trim. An alky kit is going to help you meet or exceed your goals. It is probably going to pay for itself more than a couple times over in saved parts and frustration. You are going to run more boost, make more power, and be safer doing it with the alky on there.



It's a relief to be able to just drive to the track,pull right into the lanes,and without changing a thing run 11.4-11.5@115-117mph.
Those are some REALLY good pump gas times. I'm not trying to knock what you did one bit, but you could have gone faster with alky. Infact if you can run like that w/o alky I bet you would have a shot at the 10's with it.

Jason
 
razor, the motor needs to be rebuilt which is why it is being ripped apart.

Postal, you have an alchy fetish don't you?? ;):D
 
Its very simple fly, alky and pump gas works. We have a used 44 turbo,used 009's, street chip, used K&N air filter, and a used 3" DP on my nephews GN. He also has an SMC alky kit on it. We tuned it with a scanmaster a few months ago. We adjusted the fuel pressure and alky to get o2's in the 780's and 0 degrees knock retard. It took all of about 10 minutes to tune it to this point. We havent retuned the car since. He runs consistent 108 to 109 mph and he does not lock the convertor (he would pick up 2 mph or so if he did). This is a very conservative set up because he is only running 23#'s and street timing. Most guys runnig alky run more boost AND more timing. He runs 12.6 to 12.8 average with 2.1 second 60's. He has an open rear end and recap tires :( .

Now with the alky off and tunning for 0 knock retard the boost was MUCH lower, around 17psi. The car is no where near as strong at 17 psi as it is at 23 psi. Plus the car is real sensitive to heat w/o the alky (some times you would have knock some times not). At 23psi and alky we never saw any knock unless he was romping on it repeatedly with no cool down time.

HTH: Jason
 
Fly:
Is TTA850 your friend Steve that your refering to thats running mid 11's on pump gas? If so then your set up is alot different than his. He is running a big P-trim turbo. That P-trim turbine wheel is going to make that motor breath better d/t less back pressure. Over all that turbo is going to help him make more power at less boost and is going to generate less HEAT doing it. He is also running a front mount IC. Thats going to breath better and COOL alot better than a stock IC. There was about 3#'s difference between tunning for 0 knock with my stock IC and tunning for 0 knock with my stretch in my TTA.

HTH: Jason
 
yeah the turbo and IC on his car is making a huge difference. I'm gonna try doing this..if I hit my low 12's mark then great..if not then I will go back to the drawing board
 
Thanks..glad you liked.. it was fun shooting that..a couple times..hehe

We are all here with opinions..and options.

I tend to like to keep em as stock as possible.. this seems to be the most reliable way to keep them running without breakage. maybe i'm biased seeing all my friends with really modded cars constantly breaking...dunno..

Lastly, last monday on my way to a job, I jumped on the gas and saw 4-6 degrees on my scanmaster..I look over to my boost guage..28 PSI :eek: :eek:

The hose coming from my turbo compressor with the heat desintegrated..hence no waste gate.. if I had been on 93..I too would be rebuilding.

Last time I filled my alky tank was July 9th.. three weeks to consume 1 1/2 gallons. Thats 3.75 worth of alky for insurance. And a lot of playing.
 
Originally posted by Razor

Last time I filled my alky tank was July 9th.. three weeks to consume 1 1/2 gallons. Thats 3.75 worth of alky for insurance. And a lot of playing.

that was my next question...how much do you consume...and what did you use as a holding tank? your wash fluid resevior?
 
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/bc/idoxlr8_70/lst?.dir=/Dual+Nozzle+Alky+Install&.view=t

This is a new setup i'm working with. The factory overflow holds 1 1/2 gallons. I filled my last time at the track July 9th..have run the car all month..yesterday was a lot.. finally on the way hom yesterday gotthe low alky lite to come on. If I drove it like I normally do..probably last me a month. The SMC tank I was filling about once a week..so thats about rite.

I would say 4-6 ounces per run..depending on how long I keep my foot in it. Like on the highway..I'll consume a lot more :D

I wouldnt have a turbo car without one. protection, throttlebody oil cleaning :), simplicity.

just a different way..hey I too would like to turn the numbers Steve does..really...close on a budget.
 
Can be duplicated under 500.

If you take out the the dual line and go with a single and dont use the electric pressure guage(and sending unit), can be done mid 300's

I'll be making some TTA specific converters for our boost guages to read alky pressure..I figure who ever wants to run something like this..probably exceeds the factory guage anyways..put it to good use times 5 multiplication. So when the factory guage is at 20..that equals 100 PSI alky pressure. Be a couple months before thats up..before X-mas.

And..hush hush :D
 
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