Which is Better?

[charlief1]

BTW, it snowed all last night. Don't know how much but it was enough for my neighbor to take his snowblower to the sidewalks. I left a message on my friend's phone to call me and let me know how bad the rural area is. I would like to get it today because I have to pick a package up anyway. It could be different in your case for shipping but I talked to keith and he said he boxed one up and got a quote for roughly the same distance and said it was around 150 bucks because of the box size. I don't know why so much, I shipped a bumper support for 25 but that was without a box so maybe that's why.

If you want to replace motors I would just buy new. I got some track pieces, but I may need them for my car because of rust issues in the doors and I know some things are busted for sure. If you take the door panels off and lube up tracks and stuff, either use some light lithium grease or wd40 helps a lot also for the rollers and hard to reach places. Don't use anything heavy for grease. Learned that lesson on my camaro. Doesn't turn out good when it gets cold out Make sure you clean out the bottom of your doors the best you can before you start this and make sure the drain holes are not plugged. Are there any other small pieces you may need?

???? You lost me on that one Jesse. How do door hinges and bumper supports connect to an air filter box?

 

[usetaboost]

Sorry about that Mr. Mod. Should have sent a pm. This was meant for the OP "83turbo" in something we discussed earlier through pm.

WkillGS-Would you happen to have a copy of the "sunday driver" article to scan and share with us? I've never seen it or read it for that matter. I like reading all the old magazine articles.

 

[WkillGS]

The old Hot Rod article 'Sunday Driver' said the stock air cleaner was very restrictive. Have you guys found that to be true?

It's not that the filter itself is restrictive as much as the air box and filter together.

It is the canister that is restrictive.Why cut a perfectly good hood up?

Let me correct myself... The HR article said the ELBOW that is on top of the carb was a major restriction.

My hood cutout looks almost factory... three nice cutouts on the rear of the hood bulge. I did this in 1987 before K&N filters were popular.
Besides a hood scoop looks silly if it isn't open!

 

[charlief1]

Sorry about that Mr. Mod. Should have sent a pm. This was meant for the OP "83turbo" in something we discussed earlier through pm.

LOL Well that explaines a little Jesse.:biggrin: I just couldn't figure out what you were talking about.:tongue:

Let me correct myself... The HR article said the ELBOW that is on top of the carb was a major restriction.

My hood cutout looks almost factory... three nice cutouts on the rear of the hood bulge. I did this in 1987 before K&N filters were popular.
Besides a hood scoop looks silly if it isn't open!

Post a pic of the mod you did Walt. I'd like to see it please.:smile:

 

[83turbomon]

Get Ken to help you kid. He's user friendly after all. LOL

who is Ken.... any BTW charlie does AZ carry a cone filter that would fit the 3 inch dryer duct at the end shown in figure 2? I went to AZ and Baxters and neither of them had one... then again AZ wouldnt let me open the box to see if it was the right size/fit.

 

[83turbomon]

It's not that the filter itself is restrictive as much as the air box and filter together. If you take a look at Kirbans he has an aluminum plate that takes the place of the top and allows for better flow. Look at the surface area of the stock filter and compair it to one of the K&N filters. Not to much different. It's just that the combination of the system sucks overall.

where on the website?

 

[charlief1]

who is Ken.... any BTW charlie does AZ carry a cone filter that would fit the 3 inch dryer duct at the end shown in figure 2? I went to AZ and Baxters and neither of them had one... then again AZ wouldnt let me open the box to see if it was the right size/fit.

Turbofabricator kid.

You'll need to look at the Spector catalog to see what size the inlets are to see if it's stocked or not. That'd be the best way to make sure you get the right size.

 

[imkfly]

I would go with the dryer duct so you can get the cooler air. Notice how the first pic has the filter somewhat close to the radiator and fan? It's possible that you could suck in some warm air.

So, do the dryer duct and cone filter. unhook/plug vacuum lines. You may even be able to get rid of a few of the vac lines all together. Pull the air filter canister out and set it on the shelf. I would put on a spectre cone filter unless you come across a new K&n cheaper.

When you get everything rounded up to do this, I would do a FULL tune up. Set your plug gap at 32-35

would this be the opposite in my case.. i got 2bbl carbo...and i hear its best to have warm air feeding in it? cold are would cause carb icing correct?

 

[charlief1]

would this be the opposite in my case.. i got 2bbl carbo...and i hear its best to have warm air feeding in it? cold are would cause carb icing correct?

Too some degree once you get below freezing temps. It does happen on air planes sometimes but not to often. Cold air will effect the density of the air/fuel charge so the colder the better for combustion.

 

[usetaboost]

make sure the heat riser works and route the the main air duct to the backside of the headlight or battery.

 

[83turbomon]

make sure the heat riser works and route the the main air duct to the backside of the headlight or battery.

wheres the heat riser? I still have alot to learn about cars.

 

[usetaboost]

the flapper thingy in the snorkel

 

[charlief1]

where on the website?

Should be in the performance air filter section but if you go to a store they should have a seperate catalog that will give the info.

the flapper thingy in the snorkel

^^^ You said thingy. HE HE HE:biggrin:

 

[WkillGS]

wheres the heat riser? I still have alot to learn about cars.

You have GOT to get yourself the 1983 Buick Chassis Service manual. It explains every component and how it works. Easy to find on eBay.
Get one, read it, test next Friday!

 

[charlief1]

You have GOT to get yourself the 1983 Buick Chassis Service manual. It explains every component and how it works. Easy to find on eBay.
Get one, read it, test next Friday!

Good idea Walt. It'll also help you identify how the body is put together if you need to do a repair.

 

[imkfly]

Too some degree once you get below freezing temps. It does happen on air planes sometimes but not to often. Cold air will effect the density of the air/fuel charge so the colder the better for combustion.

how would my car notice the difference in air density and change the amount of fuel coming out the carb thingy? isnt all that computer controlled on FI engines?

 

[charlief1]

You have an O2 sensor and a MAT that tells the puter how to control the fuel mix. That's how.

 

[usetaboost]

^^^ You said thingy. HE HE HE:biggrin:

and I also said flapper!:biggrin:

 

[Freddie's Buick]

The SFI puter system is a lot more sophisticated than the hot-air cars. The hot-air stuff is more like a ball-park adjustment. So MAPS, O2, TPS, BARO, and TCC dealt with fuel control on a narrow range. Those sensors are worthy of keeping if the OEM hot-air puter system is to be maintained. The other emissions stuff on the hot-airs was the real concern by OEM, (albeit crude). Most of it was junk anyway after five years. This included various vac sensors and carb canister stuff along with the A.I.R. pump and the cat.

 

[jimski]

The duct is the sh it,u have to insulate it thou it will conduct heat(aluminium holds heat and takes longer to cool).Youre cool charge will be a heated charge by the time it gets to the carb.I think that is why gm went with plastic on these cars plus it was cheaper