Elegant solution to a non existent problem in my experience. I have 4 used and 2 new stamped ones here that seal just fine. Moral of the story, check them vertically at 10 or 15 psi higher than you are running. If it seals, don't worry, if not, try a Fram or AC. That's all I use and install for customers. Keep in mind that 4, 6, 8 cylinder, big block, and small block have different weights inside. The heavier inside weight ones seal better.
If you can find the older machined steel Mopar PCV valves, they are the best. AC and Fram stamped steel ones are good too, but they don't look as cool as the machined steel, black oxide finished Mopar ones. Check out swap meets, and the Mopar boards, and guys, I have never seen one of those leak backwards. If you find an old one, take it apart and clean it, they screw together. I only have one left, and I'm keeping it! I'll post a pic later so you know what you are looking for.
Thru the years I have run: Buicks, Pontiacs, Olds, Chevies, Fords, about 10 Mopars, and a Studebaker truck. There are good and bad points to all of them.
The 440 Mopars have a 7.1" rod (you can go longer!), stroker cranks to 4.5" in any 440 block, 4.350" bores, more if you fill them, long runner intakes with no water in them so they are ALL air gap type!, and the aftermarket makes inexpensive cross bolted main caps too! My aftermarket "as cast"chinese heads for my new project flow over 300 out of the box, and 390+ with a cheap cnc port job! I will do better...
Look around, you don't need to only use Buick parts in Buicks, the other mfgrs. have some good usable parts too!
Yeah, when my Turbo T Limited is done (3 rd one for me, and 4+ years so far, and about 10 more for others), I'm doing a 72 Dodge Challenger next. I've spent about 10 grand on parts so far, and nothing was on Backorder!
TIMINATOR
whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com
