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Who makes the biggest front and rear sway bars???

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BetMinesFaster

Turbo LSX Trader
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,000
Hey guys, looking to figure out who makes the biggest front and rear sway bars for a Gn?? Looking to get this car handle a bit better, Im going to do the Gnx rear suspension, lower it a pinch and do the sway bars and some bilsteins. Im thinking that'll do the trick!!!!
 
1 3/8 on the rear that I know of, but remember that matching of the components is probably more important than the actual size of everything. Lots of choices here. Cost effective wise, the GNX rear suspension may not be the most feasible way to go here. A search will prove invaluable here. Don't forget to figure wheel dia & size into the equation. Don't forget rear upper & lower control arms, front upper & lower A-arms possibly, all of the necessary bracing, missing body & GNX bushings, etc, etc, you are just scratching the surface. HTH
 
There are plenty of threads here on getting a T to handle Here's what I followed. The stock front bar is the biggest out there for a g-body and it's OK. The Rear bar needs upgrading, I used an ATR 1.5" rear bar. Eibach pro kit spring s and bilstein shocks. Boxed control arms and poly bushings.

ATR is defunct but I believe gbody parts makes an equivalent bar.

Do not put a bigger bar on the back without boxing the stock control arms or replacing them.
 
Alan:
Are you sure that your rear replica ATR or real ATR bar is not 1 3/8" rather than 1.5". Also, I think that you can increase the size of the rear sway bar without boxing in the rear, but probably not bigger than about a 1" bar, as no one that I am aware of makes a 1 1/16", 1 1/8", or a 1 1/4" rear sway bar. Nothing between a 1" bar and the big 1 3/8" rear sway bar. HTH
 
Alan:
Are you sure that your rear replica ATR or real ATR bar is not 1 3/8" rather than 1.5". Also, I think that you can increase the size of the rear sway bar without boxing in the rear, but probably not bigger than about a 1" bar, as no one that I am aware of makes a 1 1/16", 1 1/8", or a 1 1/4" rear sway bar. Nothing between a 1" bar and the big 1 3/8" rear sway bar. HTH

Gary, I was going from memory which is a dangerous thing. It may be 1 3/8. It just looks massive compared to the stocker.

When I made the change all the advise posted here said not to put the ATR bar on stock lowers without boxing them. Maybe that's changed but it's still cheap easy and helps the hook.
 
The biggest front bar you can put on is the 36mm Hollow F-body bar.

It will actually result in more understeer than the factory bar, but it is 12 pounds lighter.
 
Gary, I was going from memory which is a dangerous thing. It may be 1 3/8. It just looks massive compared to the stocker. When I made the change all the advise posted here said not to put the ATR bar on stock lowers without boxing them. Maybe that's changed but it's still cheap easy and helps the hook.
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Alan: Sorry, I didn't mean to muddy up the issue at hand. From my personal experience with the GW? (Global West?) 1" rear sway bar that I have on the car currently, and the previous ATR replica 1 3/8" rear sway bar that I had on the car before, I think that the rear stock lower control arms would possibly handle the 1 rear sway bar, and maybe even a 1 1/8" rear sway bar if one were made, but probably not a 1 1/4" or a 1 3/8". 1 3/8" will tweak the lower stock control arms, no doubt about it. I threw lots of money at my car when it czme to rear upper & lower control arms. HTH & sorry to take this thread away from it's origfinal intent and / or track.
 
Gary, For the benefit of the oringal poster how does your car handle with the 1" bar. Cause mine with the 1 3/8 bar has no understeer. It handles on par with a 4th Gen F-body now but it has taken away some of the forgiveness. You have to do a lot wrong to loose the car but when you do you have to do everything right to gather it back up.

Don't get me wrong the handeling is great but it alter the manners.
 
1 & 3/8ths is the biggest sway bars for front and rear. I had em both on my car. the front one would not fit, without rubbing something. Honestly, from the bars I personally ran, I'd leave the front end alone. It's fine the way it is. A few mm's isnt going to help you out at all. As far as the rear, I have a pretty thick bar on my rear, unboxed trailing arms, and they're fine. Though, boxing them on any buick is pretty much mandatory for good handling. It's just a no brainer.

As far as a super tight regal, the things you can do, to make this car handle like no other, would be A, new body bushings all the way around. These are the bushings that cushion the body on the frame. B, New control/trailing arm bushings all the way around. Go with 1LE, and nothing too stiff, as you will get a touch of 'binding'. C, Box all the rear trailing/control arms. Much stiffer that way. D, New performance shocks all the way around. I use Bilstein, and they work very nicely. Ill never use another shock again. E, new STOCK springs. These other stiffer, lower springs are ok, but they can be a bit much at times, and sometimes decrease the ride quality of a buick. Plus, if youre changing tires/rims, I'm not totally sure you want your car 1 inch off the ground either. Make lowering your car the last thing you do, if you do choose to do it. F, put the really nice 'bolt on' rear swaybar on, like the one offered from HRpartsnstuff. I hear they're dam stiff. G, use the energy suspension replacement endlinks for your front sway bar. Theyre pretty nice. H, Frame braces. There's 4, from Kirbans. Part numbers 6756, 1586, 6744, and 6564. (these are actually pretty important, in that they keep your car from twisting the body, and cracking it in several places. Ive seen it time and time again.) And lastly, one of the most important pieces in making a regal really handle, is the tires and rims. I myself, would go to the lightest aluminum 16x8" rim I could possibly find, and wrap em in the highest rated 'ultra high performance summer' tires I could find in that size. Most likely Yokohama or BF goodrich. You'd be really suprised in how much of a difference in grip and sidewall deflection a good tire makes. It's freakin night and day man. Trust me, don't listen to what the others say, when they say "regals will never ever really handle good" cuz that's just crap. Give me your car, and I'll show you different. Remember though, that the bigger the rim, the lower the aspect ratio of the tires. (sidewall height) sure, she'll corner like a lotus turbo, but the straight line ride quality will suck donkey ****. Don't do it. It's a buick. It's supposed to ride really nice. In suspension tuning, ya gotta find a good balance between handling and ride quality. Notice I didnt use the eibach lowering springs with +20% stiffness, tubular aluminum control arms all the way around, and 18" rims, with super low profile tires. sure the car would corner like a bmw M3, but again, it wouldnt ride like a buick would. I kept just a few minor things stock, so theres still a touch of vibration dampening goin on. My girls sunfire gt has a great suspension, and handles really nice, but it has nowhere near the softening ride of a buick though. I guess if your butts 18, you can suck it up, but when youre 35 or over, you dont wanna be playin games. You want a grown ups car, that rides like one too :) Hope this helps.

(The only other mod you can do to your car, to make it handle like a dream, is to lighten it. It can make a difference in how your car accelerates, slows down, and corners. It's not that hard to shave 150 pounds off a regal. And if you REALLY want to save weight, you can start strippin' off power seat/window/antenna motors, usin fiberglass doors, and use aluminum heads and engine block. But I'm sure you don't wanna go that far lol. Hope this helps. )
 
I have a Monster Herb Adams rear sway bar on my 2+2 that has comparable stiffness to a ATR bar.

I used to run a stock 32mm front bar and -1.5 degrees of negative camber in front and the car was much more prone to oversteer. I even slid through the weeds coming out of one corner at 105 mph.

Since then, I took the negative camber out of the front and put on a 36mm hollow bar. The oversteer is gone and the handling is totally predictable.

The car isn't as fast in the corners (before If I went into a corner too fast, I would let off and the car would magically make the corner - except for that one time I went sliding through the weeds) but at the limit, I don't have to worry about it snapping around.

On the street, at normal speeds, the stock front bar with an ATR bar will handle much better than it will with a larger than stock bar in front.
 
Gary, For the benefit of the oringal poster how does your car handle with the 1" bar. Cause mine with the 1 3/8 bar has no understeer. It handles on par with a 4th Gen F-body now but it has taken away some of the forgiveness. You have to do a lot wrong to loose the car but when you do you have to do everything right to gather it back up.
Don't get me wrong the handeling is great but it alter the manners.
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Alan: I will post this afternoon when I get back home from work, but for simplicity's sake, I agree with you 100% on the lack of understeer & forgiveness aspect.
 
Well, I am gratefull for all the info on this topic, I am going to need a front bar regaurdless because the previous owner removed it and its just no fun to drive now, Just thought id change the rear stocker out because I was there, I have bilstein shocks ordered already, So ill order some boxed arms and sway bars and hopefully this car is happy!
 
I have an ATR big fat rear sway bar and no front bar. I bought my car new and can say it handles now with this setup as good as when it was new!

Try to locate one of those big rear ATR sway bars and try that for starters. Then if you want to, you can add the front bar and have a car that handles better than new IMO. Paul
 
Well, I am gratefull for all the info on this topic, I am going to need a front bar regaurdless because the previous owner removed it and its just no fun to drive now, Just thought id change the rear stocker out because I was there, I have bilstein shocks ordered already, So ill order some boxed arms and sway bars and hopefully this car is happy!

If you want to do this on the cheap just order the plates from HR parts & stuff and weld them on your existing arms. Even cheaper still is cut the plates to fit.
 
Don't dismiss the rear bar from HR Parts.... it IMHO.... is the bomb....

I think it is one of the few parts that I am aware of that really help handling.... and drag racing...... usually if it relly helps handling... it hurts drag racing.... but not this bar....

Most people hate the way their car handles with the front sway bar removed.... makes the fron end dive real bad..... some say that with the HR Parts rear bar installed.... that their cars handled acceptable even w/o the front sway bar.... where it would have handled real bad had it not had the HR Parts bar...
 
Don't dismiss the rear bar from HR Parts.... it IMHO.... is the bomb....

I think it is one of the few parts that I am aware of that really help handling.... and drag racing...... usually if it relly helps handling... it hurts drag racing.... but not this bar....

Most people hate the way their car handles with the front sway bar removed.... makes the fron end dive real bad..... some say that with the HR Parts rear bar installed.... that their cars handled acceptable even w/o the front sway bar.... where it would have handled real bad had it not had the HR Parts bar...

+1 you cant go wrong with a HRPARTS Bar.
 
I have the huge rear atr bar on mine, and she's nice, but it still handled like CRAP with nothin up front. Trust me man, save the money on the front bar, and just get a used stocker for 25 bucks, and spend the rest on the hrpartsnstuff rear sway. And dont buy boxed arms. just buy new bushings, and some box plates, and do it yourself. It can be a pain, but its cheaper. Do not make the same mistake a lot of gn owners do, and just throw money at it, thinking it will automatically improve everything. Box your own arms, buy a stock front bar, with new hardware, get the HRparts rear bar, throw those bilsteins in, and be done with it.
 
My Suspension Modifications to Date: (08/20/2007):
1) Bilsteins on all 4 corners
2) Kirban’s stock replacement + 10%(?) stiffer front & rear springs
3) Replaced missing & / or added factory body & GNX bushings
4) Kirbans lower frame braces (3). (Under hood braces reduce squeaks / rattles only)
5) BMR upper rear control arms, fully adjustable, spherical bearings in front & 1LE rubber in back
6) Global west (GW) lower rear control arms, spherical bearings in front & Del-A-Lum bushings in back
7) Global West 1” rear sway bar
8) Savitske Classic & Custom (SC&C) Street Comp II upper front control arms, lightweight & fully adjustable
9) GTA (GNX replica) honeycomb 16” X 8” aluminum rims mounting Michelin “Pilot 245/50R16 on all 4 corners (slight rub on right hand front at full tilt).
Next suspension mod that I am looking at is the Lee rebuilt steering box which is supposed to give the same amount of improvement as a rack & pinion set-up.
I really like the suspension improvements that I have done so far, and there is nothing that I have done on this car that I wouldn’t do again.
I see Baer discs on all 4 corners down the road

Nothing wrong with throwing money at something depending on how deep your pockets are, what you want to accomplish, what you have in the way of help, what you have access to in the way of tools and how long do you have timewise to accomplish your goals. As stated above, it is definitely not the best nor cheapest plan to go by. HTH
 
True, but what I meant by 'throwin money at it' was that, just because youve replaced the part with something newer, doesnt mean it was automatically improved now. EVERY car has parts on it that just HAVE to go in the trash, whereas, every car has some parts, that one should never touch, and was actually done right at the factory. Quick example, our fuel system. The entire system bar none is total crap. 110%. Most people take it and pitch it directly into a dumpster. Other things that are adequate from the factory, like say, front sway bar, rear end, rear end gear, etc etc, have remained stock on many peoples low 12 second street terrors for years.

Some things should change, others shouldn't. It's on the owner to do the investigation on his car. For what I want (a fast and reliable street car) a 2 mm increase in the front swaybar diameter won't change a thing. Or changing to aluminum control arms instead of just boxing my own and throwin in 1LE rubber. Whereas the stock tires will hold you back, and the change to a really good high performance summer tire will really let the monster out of the cage. Never throw some money at a car, unless you really do the research, and find out if the change was actually warranted or not.
 
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