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Whomever invented the stock turbo drain tube........

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Reggie West

Reggie West

Well-Known Member
TurboBuick.Com Supporter!
Joined
May 28, 2001
Messages
2,553
Will be shot if I ever meet him!

Just sayin...
 
lawl. Now try making your own braided hose with the correct adapter fittings. Cutting that hose to fit the right length and then is just as much a bitch. Safe to say mine's never leaked for all of its 114000 miles. Could've gave out at any point.

I'm guessing the front of your motor is all covered in oil?
 
No rebuilding a motor for a friend and had to fight that damn thing for 30 minutes and numerous bad words thrown at it but I got it.

I took a coffee break after that to calm down.

It's amazing all the little things you forget on a stock motor. And then remember.
 
That must of been a brother to the guy that made the dash volt bulb & socket part of the charging system, that if the bulb happens to burn out that the alternator stops charging the battery on these cars. :D


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Last edited:
turbo89 said:
He's best friends with the guy that designed the driver's side header and oil system on these cars :)
Click to expand...

Those guys are all "related".. Look at the V-sicks engine. The guy that invented it, also invented the engine hoist!:smuggrin:
 
Damm kids !!!! I really never had a problem with them . BUT I had Ford 427/428's in Mustangs to learn how tight things really are to get to. :p
 
I welded a fitting into the oil pan and drained it directly back into the pan. #10 line and a few swivel fittings...done. Cotton's sells the adapter to bolt to the bottom of the turbo that accepts the 1/2 inch pipe fitting.
 
The stock oil return was designed with a great purpose. It's the least invasive and shortest distance to the block while still having enough downward slope to properly return aerated oil to the crankcase. It's also cheaper than retuning to the oil pan. The problems start when people (that word people) don't have the bearing housing clocked correctly and attempt to bend the tubing to accommodate their improperly clocked turbo. The first thing you do when installing is a mock up. Put the turbo on and visually look at the oil return tube to be sure it's mating surface is parallel to the bearing housing oil drain. If it's not you have to determine if the tube or the bearing housing is off. Correct whichever is off. The top of the bearing housing is typically clocked so the inlet is 15-20 degrees forward of the outlet. This leaves the same angle at the outlet and consequently the drain back flange will need to be at that same angle. Also the tube should be checked in the opposite plane for proper clocking and adjusted as needed during mock up. Once the drain back is adjusted gaskets or sealant can be added to the turbo drain back flange and the turbo can be bolted down. At this point there should be minimal struggle to insert the bolts since you already verified proper flange alignment. The stock tubing at the flange has a larger inside diameter than just about any oil drain back sold for these cars. It's that large internal diameter for a reason. The oil is heavily aerated and needs time to purge the air. The stock oil return is plenty for a small shaft journal turbo. However it is marginal for a large shaft turbo that will flow considerably more oil. The smallest point of the stock oil return is the fitting threaded into the front of the block. I guess the engineers concluded the oil purges enough air at that point to not need a larger fitting in its place. The biggest smoking problems I see with turbos on turbo regals is when people (that word again) try to re engineer the oil retun. Typically using a flange with threads and attempt to hook a braided or rubber hose to it. Two things happen. Typically the inlet diameter is reduced by as much as 50% and the continuous downward slope of the return is diminished because the flange and fitting lower the connection point one to two inches. As a result the oil will aerate when spooled and not drain back filling the bearing housing with oil. Then upon negative power the oil will exit the bearing housing via the sealing ring(s) and enter the exhaust or compressor cover or both. It won't enter the cover in a positive carbon seal setup. If wanting to replace the oil return Id rec going to the pan and making sure the flange area is at least as large as stock. Some -10 are smaller. The closer to the turbo the larger the inside diameter needs to be. It's less critical as you get further away because the aeration in the oil will dissipate and the oil will take up less volume. A continuos downward slope is required always. The same principal as the shitter in your house where it exits to you septic tank or to the city sewer. Very simple yet I see many cars with cobbled oil returns. Ratcheting wrenches make oil return bolt install and removal very easy


BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
bison said:
The stock oil return was designed with a great purpose. It's the least invasive and shortest distance to the block while still having enough downward slope to properly return aerated oil to the crankcase. It's also cheaper than retuning to the oil pan. The problems start when people (that word people) don't have the bearing housing clocked correctly and attempt to bend the tubing to accommodate their improperly clocked turbo. The first thing you do when installing is a mock up. Put the turbo on and visually look at the oil return tube to be sure it's mating surface is parallel to the bearing housing oil drain. If it's not you have to determine if the tube or the bearing housing is off. Correct whichever is off. The top of the bearing housing is typically clocked so the inlet is 15-20 degrees forward of the outlet. This leaves the same angle at the outlet and consequently the drain back flange will need to be at that same angle. Also the tube should be checked in the opposite plane for proper clocking and adjusted as needed during mock up. Once the drain back is adjusted gaskets or sealant can be added to the turbo drain back flange and the turbo can be bolted down. At this point there should be minimal struggle to insert the bolts since you already verified proper flange alignment. The stock tubing at the flange has a larger inside diameter than just about any oil drain back sold for these cars. It's that large internal diameter for a reason. The oil is heavily aerated and needs time to purge the air. The stock oil return is plenty for a small shaft journal turbo. However it is marginal for a large shaft turbo that will flow considerably more oil. The smallest point of the stock oil return is the fitting threaded into the front of the block. I guess the engineers concluded the oil purges enough air at that point to not need a larger fitting in its place. The biggest smoking problems I see with turbos on turbo regals is when people (that word again) try to re engineer the oil retun. Typically using a flange with threads and attempt to hook a braided or rubber hose to it. Two things happen. Typically the inlet diameter is reduced by as much as 50% and the continuous downward slope of the return is diminished because the flange and fitting lower the connection point one to two inches. As a result the oil will aerate when spooled and not drain back filling the bearing housing with oil. Then upon negative power the oil will exit the bearing housing via the sealing ring(s) and enter the exhaust or compressor cover or both. It won't enter the cover in a positive carbon seal setup. If wanting to replace the oil return Id rec going to the pan and making sure the flange area is at least as large as stock. Some -10 are smaller. The closer to the turbo the larger the inside diameter needs to be. It's less critical as you get further away because the aeration in the oil will dissipate and the oil will take up less volume. A continuos downward slope is required always. The same principal as the shitter in your house where it exits to you septic tank or to the city sewer. Very simple yet I see many cars with cobbled oil returns. Ratcheting wrenches make oil return bolt install and removal very easy


BPE2013@hotmail.com
Click to expand...
This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^100% I personally would like to meet the people at GM responsible for our Turbo-Regals and put my hand in their hand and tell them Job well done fellas.
 
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After many failed attempts at a leak-free installation, this is my process:
1. Mock up turbo to align everything including the center section
2. With turbo off car, apply thin film of RTV to both sides of paper drain gasket
3. Remove drain pipe from block and install on turbo with ease!
4. Allow RTV to dry...then wait some more...
5. Finally, attach the drain pipe to the fitting in the block while you are mounting the turbo

Space can be a bit tight, but this way you are not dealing with the the rapidly drying RTV and worrying about messing up the seal as the pipe moves around as you attempt to line everything up. Also, if you have to tweak the return pipe, it completely eliminates the guesswork...just connect the pipe to the fitting in the block and bolt down the turbo...DONE! Leak free for many years now.
 
If that was their goal, they failed miserably at saving some from themselves lol


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I bought one from Kirban, I think it is a reproduction one. My turbo still leaks oil from somewhere and the oil on the DP or exhaust housing = smoke. I find out the issue the winter I guess. I hope to be replacing my current block with a rebuilt one.
 
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