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Why did your engine fail?

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Pablo

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2004
Messages
3,430
Just like the title says.. if you've blown one up, what blew up and why?

I think it would be interesting to get a big sample of failures to see percentage wise what are the most failure prone items and mode of failure.
There's certainly a lot of "common knowledge" about this... I think it would help to see the numbers though.
 
Headgasket. stock motor 84,000 miles 28 psi on 91 and alky doesnt mix. lifted the head. turned the boost down to 26psi and lifted it again.
 
Cracked mains/block. Done it 2x, but long long ago. One ungirdled and one girdled. The girdled one cracked through the threads on the left side of the engine. Didnt know it till i tore it down. The girdle held it together. The ungirdled one split a cap so i was running on 3 mains:eek: . Dont know how long i was running on 3 mains. It also cracked along the perimeter of the block. It had an oil leak i couldnt figure out. Lol! Both engines made over 600hp with hundreds of floggings through 3rd gear each. The one in my sig is a grenade with the pin pulled also. Neither of them had a crank failure suprisingly. Running stock cranks. Almost anytime theres headgasket failure its operator error. Not really blown up at that point either.
 
bison,

"the threads on the left side of the engine" do you mean the main cap threads?


Btw this is good, keep em coming
 
Engine #1
hypereutectic (spelling?) pistons cracked at wrist pins. Didn't know anything at the time and engine builder told me to use them. Valve retainers hit valve guides causing push rods to bend. This was same engine builder.

Engine #2
engine builder from Muncie Indiana put standard size rings on 30 over pistons
ruined the block.:mad:

Engine #3
oil galley plugs fell out because machine shop did not stake them in

Engine #4
Blew a head gasket
 
hoo boy... lets see...

I'll qualify mine by saying my car is total street car. Very little racing, never seen the high side of 20 psi. Also, every time I went through it I got short blocks done by someone else, and I did the installation of heads, cam, timing chain cover, etc...

#1 - Stock engine - at 100k miles I had a shop install a new timing chain as a preventative measure. Spun a bearing when they fired it up. They didn't prime the oil pump, though I think they did pack it with vasoline. They had some other theories about why it spun, but I think it was not priming it. That lead to...

#2 - GM replacement short block (this was back when you could still get them). Mechanic installed the heads/cam/etc. Not sure what happened to this one. Seems like some kind of oil starvation problem. Went 10k miles. This one I really rev'ed up (on the street) a couple of times, I think by screwing up while manually shifting, or having it in 2nd when I thought it was in D, and each time I did it lost 5 psi of hot idle oil pressure. Then took it to the track and made a pass and it was knocking real loud on the return road. Spun a bearing again. Which lead to...

#3 - Rebuild of #2. Figured I couldn't screw it up any worse than the mechanics I had been using, so I pulled it and reassembled it myself. No racing, all street. Went about 5k miles I guess. Then gave it a good run out by my folks place, couple hundred miles away, and then watched the oil pressure slowly drop all the way back home. Dropped 10 psi I want to say over that drive. Yanked it, back to the machine shop, and he couldn't really find anything wrong with it. All new bearings, rechecked everything, gave it back to me. I bought an econo-roller from PT&E for it. Everything seemed to be fine again, although the oil pressure did drop a little bit as I drove it.

#4 - Then started hearing all the horror stories about the econo-rollers. Tore mine down to yank it out and install a flat tappet cam. Cam showed a little wear, but not much, it did no damage. Noticed though that the #1 cam bearing was pretty worn. Installed a new TA Perf cam bearing in the #1 spot during this time. Upon restart, oil pressure came back to where it had been before. Said ah-ha! I bet this is why I pulled #3 out. After this I drove the engine a good while, time-wise. No idea how many miles though. Then...

#5 - Car did sit a lot. Goes weeks, sometimes months at a time without being started. Then started driving it more. Got out on the beltway, cruising along, look down at my water temp gauge and it is pegged. Running great though, for a few minutes, then oh crap. Knocking by the time I was able to pull over safely. Still knocking after it cooled off. Teardown reveals a thermostat that had rusted shut (or at least no longer worked for some reason). Two pistons got a little too big for their britches and scored the cyl walls. Bearings all looked perfect though. Bored it out and new pistons and it runs great again!

That's my story, so far :) I sure hope I don't acquire any more!

John
 
#1 - 85K stock engine in mid-2002. I was new to the hobby and let it knock too much at high boost. Hammered the main bearings out of it. Just needed 'freshened up' (.040 overbore, billet caps, etc.).

#2 - <10K miles on the above rebuild; mid-2008. The engine died a horrible death at the hands of someone who doesn't know much about these cars. It was run on pump gas at around 30 PSI. When the alky pump went dry all hell broke loose. I wasn't there when it happened, but I got to deal with the aftermath: two bent connecting rods, 2 broken pistons, demolished crankshaft and 2 blown head gaskets. Was able to save the block. Rebuilt with a stock crank and found 2 new, .040 pistons and rods.

For the purposes of the survey, both failures were due to high boost and not enough octane.

Jim
 
bison,

"the threads on the left side of the engine" do you mean the main cap threads?


Btw this is good, keep em coming

Yes on th center mains. They started to crack upward toward the cam journals
 
fuel pumps died and I kept hitting it trying to figure out WTH was wrong with the car - external pump sounded like it always did and it made good pressure at idle - man do I feel like an idiot for that failure.

Then I pushed out an oil galley plug - just polished the crank and got new bearings and all is well.

Stock engine never went bad - beat on it for 220,000 miles - bad knocking with pump gas and 20 PSI - cheap oil - waste gate solenoid hose popped off and blowing 25+ psi popping and leaning out = EVERYTHING BAD but at 13.5/105MPH type power the engine held together. Only went thru it because work was good in three areas...the stars aligned :

Steady $ at an OK job

Company car

Company warehouse available for my engine project

so it was time to crank it up and I pulled a fine running engine :)

PS:
The engine always sounded and ran great! The only thing that made me pull it was the oil pressure gauge - cold 70 psi, hot, 9 psi and at 3,000 RPMS would climb slowly to about 20 - 25 psi so I knew something was up
 
Almost Done That #2

#1 - 85K stock engine in mid-2002. I was new to the hobby and let it knock too much at high boost. Hammered the main bearings out of it. Just needed 'freshened up' (.040 overbore, billet caps, etc.).

#2 - <10K miles on the above rebuild; mid-2008. The engine died a horrible death at the hands of someone who doesn't know much about these cars. It was run on pump gas at around 30 PSI. When the alky pump went dry all hell broke loose. I wasn't there when it happened, but I got to deal with the aftermath: two bent connecting rods, 2 broken pistons, demolished crankshaft and 2 blown head gaskets. Was able to save the block. Rebuilt with a stock crank and found 2 new, .040 pistons and rods.

For the purposes of the survey, both failures were due to high boost and not enough octane.

Jim

i almost did the same didn't know much better but the seller told me turn key car so took it out and blow headgasket after a overheat,pump gas,dry alky from leaking hose good thing nothing internal.
 
The majority of street engines I have repaired or rebuilt were on cars that had used alchy. Most are head gaskets and head problems, but a few have split blocks and broken cranks.

A few race motors, 109 blocks, have also damaged blocks and heads, but these are in the 800+ HP range. Very seldom have we seen a bottom end problem with a race motor except with used BMS or stock parts.:)

Since we have done many complete "forged" short blocks, these have held up VERY well. A stock cast crank is the biggest problem, as they flex like crazy at the higher RPM's and HP.
 
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