why you cut and buff your paint

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pictures will help
 

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Nice! I need to find something to learn how to do that. I think my paint will polish up nicely. It needs haze removed too.
 
Looking good.

It takes time to do it right.

Lots of time.

Mike Barnard
 
:cool::cool:Nice work!:cool::cool:

Back in the day I could practically lay paint like that without a buff! Nothin but an old DeVilbiss siphon gun. I've still got it packed away somewhere. I can't even remember the model #, something like DB-1A...? They still make copies of it, even tho DVB went out 15-20yrs ago. If you don't mind the excess wasted mat'l vs. an HVLP model, I've always felt the results were superior. Required less work for a true show quality finish, like yours!
 
1500,2000,2500 wet.

WOW! 2500 grit? I have to give it to these charlatans at these paint companies like PPG and 3M with their overpriced crap. I thought 2000 was overkill, but 2500 grit. That's because at some point, most sandpaper works the same. 1000 grit works the same as 600 grit, and 1500 grit works like 1200 grit. Anyway, you wet sand it all out and finish up with say, 1500 grit, and when you compound it, the compound makes impressions in the paint you can see. Pretty soon they'll be selling wet or dry paper with no abrasive on it. :biggrin:
 
LOL

I've got some special wide margin paper! I don't carry the stuff with adhesive along one edge anymore though!;)

No kiddin, 600,1000,1500 done! I've compounded over 600 with the same end result. Back in the laquer days you never even heard of something over 600. But we'd get demands for 20+ coats of it because they'd heard it made the depth, and it wasn't in the prep and finish of the product.:rolleyes:
 
LOL

I've got some special wide margin paper! I don't carry the stuff with adhesive along one edge anymore though!;)

No kiddin, 600,1000,1500 done! I've compounded over 600 with the same end result. Back in the laquer days you never even heard of something over 600. But we'd get demands for 20+ coats of it because they'd heard it made the depth, and it wasn't in the prep and finish of the product.:rolleyes:

That's right! 600 was it, but now in this new hi-tech world of BS they're selling 2500. I never even heard of it. :biggrin: I long block out the texture with 500 to get the surface flat, then long block with 1000 and 1500 is all you need. :wink:
 
How about the likes of 3M 3000 grit D/A paper at $8 a sheet. Cut w/ 1000 grit and a paint paddle as a block, then wet d/a with the 3000. Just touch the buffer to it and it shines back up.
SUre you can get by with something in the 1500 range for a final cut but you will spend more time with the buffer.
 
Looks good. I spent last weekend buffing mine and bringing some shine back to the black.

Got a couple of small, stubborn scratches that didn't come all the way out. Someday soon I hope to learn to wetsand.
 
I would have to guess that I have over 150 hours into bringing my paint up to the level it is now. Funny thing though. I can't ever remember seeing my car at a car show, and saying to my self, "I wish I hadn't spent so much time on my paint".;)

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Happy spooling.

Mike Barnard
 
^^^^ HOLY F-ING $HIT BALLS BATMAN!!!!!!:eek::eek:

Your car looks absolutely stunning. I'm jealous.

I have a buddy who is a pretty damn good painter (does custom airbrushing) and he has offered to wetsand my car. I have seen his work on motorcycle tanks & fenders. It looks stunning, but I'm just a tad nervous if he'd F-up somewhere on my car.

I have put many hours into my paint by hand using claybar,cutting cremes, glazers, sealers, & waxes. I'm happy & it looks good, but not 100 ft deep good & mirrored like yours.


AWESOME!!! That's all I can say.
 
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