will a ta49/te44 still be enough?

usetaboost

SAY CAR RAMROD!!
I'm not lookin to build a track car or anything here. Just want to match turbo to my mods and use. THis car is just going to be for street. No planned track runs. The car is mild for the most part. I've tried using search to find a similar build but it seems the cars are either more than what I have or way less.

Here's where I'm gonna be by spring-

204/214 cam, 3 inch THDP, hooker exhaust, reds xp pump and hotwire, 42 lbers, bowl and port match heads, duttneck ic, stock converter, trans+, homemade alky, and other starter mods. Probably gonna throw in a CK shift kit sometime too.

I'm sure injectors and/or converter may have to upgraded which isn't a big deal for me either.

Fire away
 
42 # injs will take you into the low 11, In your case Id look into a 60 series turbo, I ran a TA60 with 42# ers no cam no head work and a 17 row mark jackson Ic and Stock TC and the car went 11.43@118 with a 1.61 60 ft.
If i were oin your situation I'd buy a 60 equivalent turbo and the precision SLIC intercooler, there are plenty of new technology turbos that will spool decent with your stock TC.
 
Read the thread about bigger is not better in the tech section. If you want a 6176 like i used in those tests ill sell one for $550 shipped. Garrett .63 housing and ready to bolt on. Id only suggest a 6262 over the 6176 f you want simialr power with a little less ex wheel for quicker spool. You will need a converter. No way around it if you plan on using a turbo that you wont have to work too hard to get the power out of it. If you bought the 6176 and a 9.5" PTC and NL conversion you would be at about $1550 total and probably shave a second off your current e.t. You will easily run the 42's out. The car i used for these tests is brutal on the street.
 
Id only suggest a 6262 over the 6176 f you want simialr power with a little less ex wheel for quicker spool.

Then wouldn't a 6262 be better than a 6176... 99% of the time because of the quicker spool and similar power? Joe
 
Then wouldn't a 6262 be better than a 6176... 99% of the time because of the quicker spool and similar power? Joe

Think you need to read a little further


Id only suggest a 6262 over the 6176 f you want simialr power with a little less ex wheel for quicker spool. You will need a converter!
 
Not to sound like a wuss but I would like to keep the lockup for gas mileage. Do you have any other suggestions? BTW I'm running a stock turbo right now. I was thinking about getting a ta49 or te44 but didn't know if they would be big enough to take advantage of the head and intake work.
 
Not to sound like a wuss but I would like to keep the lockup for gas mileage. Do you have any other suggestions? BTW I'm running a stock turbo right now. I was thinking about getting a ta49 or te44 but didn't know if they would be big enough to take advantage of the head and intake work.

They have low 11 sec.... even high 10 sec potential..... They are an awesome turbo for a street car.....and you don't have to have a big stall either.... they will work with a stock converter if they have the Garrett 63 housing...
 
Read the thread about bigger is not better in the tech section. If you want a 6176 like i used in those tests ill sell one for $550 shipped. Garrett .63 housing and ready to bolt on. Id only suggest a 6262 over the 6176 f you want simialr power with a little less ex wheel for quicker spool. You will need a converter. No way around it if you plan on using a turbo that you wont have to work too hard to get the power out of it. If you bought the 6176 and a 9.5" PTC and NL conversion you would be at about $1550 total and probably shave a second off your current e.t. You will easily run the 42's out. The car i used for these tests is brutal on the street.

Very good advice and you should listen to Brian on this. He really does know what he's talking about here Jesse. He's offered you one heck of a deal and you really should think about it.:biggrin:
 
I'll have a fat check coming next week. It's making just wanna get kick ass stuff instead of the norm.

Can I use a lock up with this turbo or will I leave too much on the table?
 
I'll have a fat check coming next week. It's making just wanna get kick ass stuff instead of the norm.

Can I use a lock up with this turbo or will I leave too much on the table?

In my application a lockup would hurt e.t. You might be ok if you have more than stock cam and are trapping under 120mph. Otherwise you will need something you can lock at WOT or your going to drive over it. You arent really saving gas by going with a lockup vs a 9.5" PTC. You looking at 200-300 rpm slip at light cruise. About 5% or less in most instances. Maybe a couple % loss on fuel mileage. Which equates to little $ savings over the course of a year. A lot less can go wrong with a PTC 9.5" and it will slip less at light cruise than a lockup converter will when its unlocked.
 
A 49 will work great imo. I just went 11.3 @ 119.7 in bg last week with an unopened engine and a 49 with a horrible 60' and worn out 255/60 Dr's. I could only imagine what this turbo would be like with a little more cam and heads.
 
A 49 will work great imo. I just went 11.3 @ 119.7 in bg last week with an unopened engine and a 49 with a horrible 60' and worn out 255/60 Dr's. I could only imagine what this turbo would be like with a little more cam and heads.

Is this with a precision housing or the Garrett housing. I have a TA 49 on my GN right now, I was just wondering if it's a big difference on the street between the two housings, just curious. Oh, and I have a stock converter.
 
204/214 cam, 3 inch THDP, hooker exhaust, reds xp pump and hotwire, 42 lbers, bowl and port match heads, duttneck ic, stock converter, trans+, homemade alky, and other starter mods. Probably gonna throw in a CK shift kit sometime too.

At the time I dynoed my 2002 build, I had 210/210 roller, bowl ported irons, 37# inj, V4, D5 converter, adj FP reg, TE44.63, K&N, hotwired 307, THDP, dual 3 ATR exhaust. With 110 race gas and a street/strip Conley chip and 17 psi it put down 403/545 at a typically conservative reading Lingenfelter shop's dyno. Same setup ran high 11's at 115mph effortlessly with the original BFG 275 50 15 drag radials. Wideband said 12's lol, ran it to 6400 rpm. I have a video of it around here somewhere too.

Same setup with a 3000 stall 9/11 was 1000x times more fun on the street.

YouTube - 87 Turbo T dyno 403 rwhp 545 rwtq

65.JPG
 
Is this with a precision housing or the Garrett housing. I have a TA 49 on my GN right now, I was just wondering if it's a big difference on the street between the two housings, just curious. Oh, and I have a stock converter.

Garret. If you are sticking with the stock TC, I would do the 49. I have an old school non lockup art Carr in my car. It actually works well with the combo.
 
TE44 Dyno 93/Alky w/ 27 lbs

My TE44 put down 422rwhp and 511 rwt, timing at 21.5* at 27 lbs of boost/93 alky/exhaust cutout removed. first dyno pull was with cutout capped. Stock cam, stock heads w/ mild port by me, 177/150 valves. See other mods in signature. Still needs some tweaking as it was breaking up after 5000 RPMs. Still working on tweaking the tune. Could need a stronger valve spring.
 

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I guess the real question OP is, When is any turbo enough? :D

If I were to buy new today, Billet 58, but if you're on a budget the TE44 is a proven work horse.
 
My TE44 put down 422rwhp and 511 rwt, timing at 21.5* at 27 lbs of boost/93 alky/exhaust cutout removed. first dyno pull was with cutout capped. Stock cam, stock heads w/ mild port by me, 177/150 valves. See other mods in signature. Still needs some tweaking as it was breaking up after 5000 RPMs. Still working on tweaking the tune. Could need a stronger valve spring.

DAYUM!:eek:
 
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