Willwood Calipers One Last Time.

[NY Twin Turbo]

im running the 1.125" M/C on mine with no issues. i didnt install the piston sleeve so i do have about 1/8" travel before it starts to press on the piston.

Piston sleeve? I'm sorry, I simply can't remember all the crap I've done sometimes. Help jog my memory. What is this?

 

[Boost231]

irs the metal insert that you can place in the piston on the MC.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

irs the metal insert that you can place in the piston on the MC.

I went to Willwood's website and refreshed my memory a little further. I didn't use it either because I'm not supposed to. It's for cars with short push rods and power brakes.

And now I also remember what that thing is in my spare hardware bin. It keeps rolling out every time I dump it to look for something.

 

[Boost231]

some run the pin and shim as needed as it will take some of the slop out of the pedal. but with my factory hydroboost i used it and it made contact to soon. pulled it out and it has just alittle play but i know damn well its not making contact and able to fully release and not put any pressure on the calipers.

 

[cs69camaro]

I/m running a 7/8" Wilwood master cylinder and have been fighting a similar issue. I am running manual brakes also. I have replaced all calipers with stock which didn't help so I forked out $$$$ for the Wilwood big brake kit for the front and a rear disk conversion for the back. It is better but still not what I would like with a turbo ls motor moving the car. I called Wilwood tech support and they suggested a 2lb residual valve for the back which came in this week and hopefully will be installed over the weekend. I'm about to burn this thing if I can't get it working right!!! BTW, what bracket is that you are using to mount your master cylinder?

 

[pacecarta]

^ joey has the stock powermaster firewall plate..he prettied it up a little

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

I/m running a 7/8" Wilwood master cylinder and have been fighting a similar issue. I am running manual brakes also. I have replaced all calipers with stock which didn't help so I forked out $$$$ for the Wilwood big brake kit for the front and a rear disk conversion for the back. It is better but still not what I would like with a turbo ls motor moving the car. I called Wilwood tech support and they suggested a 2lb residual valve for the back which came in this week and hopefully will be installed over the weekend. I'm about to burn this thing if I can't get it working right!!! BTW, what bracket is that you are using to mount your master cylinder?

Yes, it is the factory Powermaster mounting pad. It happens to hold the MC perfectly level.

I have the residual valve as well. It's red. You can see it in the picture.

I have no intentions of converting the rear to disk. The fronts are currently factory calipers on cross drilled and slotted rotors. The Willwood replacements are going on soon. This is my last chance to get it right. The car stops beautifully. But only after the pedal travels more that an inch before something happens. There is NO AIR in the brake system. I have bled them 578,394,656 times!!!!!!

After this, I am out of ideas.

 

[Phoneguy]

Simple......


Bend the pedal ..................

Bryan

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Simple......


Bend the pedal ..................

Bryan

I might bend it pushing it through the floor board!

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Got the calipers today. Now it's to damned cold to install them. Let's see for the weekend.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

I finally bled the new calipers yesterday. And guess what? They seemed to work successfully at taking a lot of slack out of the brake pedal travel. I have not driven the car yet and wont for a few more weeks. But I can tell you now, that I definitely get brake engagement with much less distance on the pedal. I'm very optimistic! I may still take another 1/4 inch of travel out by adjusting the push-rod length longer and providing a return stop. Not sure yet. But this is a big improvement!!!!!

I've posted this in my other thread as well to help others who may do a search for help. It seems as if I complained about this a few times. And now I'm finally getting it resolved.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I may still take another 1/4 inch of travel out by adjusting the push-rod length longer and providing a return stop. Not sure yet. But this is a big improvement!!!!!

Taking the p rod to a length that preloads the m/c can cause the return port to be partly/all blocked off. This is why there is supposed to be free play there.
Secondly, Wilwood tech advised me to use a 10# residual, as the 5# may not be enuf to overcome the force of the shoe return springs..[11 x 2.25 drums.]

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Taking the p rod to a length that preloads the m/c can cause the return port to be partly/all blocked off. This is why there is supposed to be free play there.
Secondly, Wilwood tech advised me to use a 10# residual, as the 5# may not be enuf to overcome the force of the shoe return springs..[11 x 2.25 drums.]

I understand, and I would be ultra careful if I did do this.. But I believe it may not even need it. I won't get a chance to test drive it for a few weeks at best.
I was told by Wilwood to just use a 5 for the rear line. I'm going to test it out when I get a chance by jacking up all 4 corners and doing the free wheel spin while somebody very slowly applies pressure to the pedal. If all goes well, even the slightest touch should give me drag right away.

 

[87geeinn]

A word of advice on the Wilwood calipers: If using steel braided brake lines, they are longer than stockers and given the placement of the banjo bolt on the Wilwood calipers, they will rub and cause interference if you don't have them angled just right. I had someone turn the wheel from lock to lock while the car was still sitting on the ground. You also want to take into account suspension travel. Here's then angle that I ended up going with before making the final crush seal on the washer:

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

A word of advice on the Wilwood calipers: If using steel braided brake lines, they are longer than stockers and given the placement of the banjo bolt on the Wilwood calipers, they will rub and cause interference if you don't have them angled just right. I had someone turn the wheel from lock to lock while the car was still sitting on the ground. You also want to take into account suspension travel. Here's then angle that I ended up going with before making the final crush seal on the washer:View attachment 274433 View attachment 274434 View attachment 274435

Yup. Triple checked it in all positions, off the ground, on the ground, and lock to lock both ways. I ended up in the same position as yours. I still don't love it though. I would have liked maybe an inch more length on the braided lines.