Working on Roll bar

[Evaddave 87gn]

Painting roll bar!

 

[Evaddave 87gn]

The roll bar is an S&W 8pt. I purchased rear pro bars but I didn't use them. I bent the rear bars and side bars at the local muffler shop, (Thanks Tim!)

Since I'm 6'5" I made some changes to my power seat to have it slide back four more inches which also pushed my roll bar back a couple more inches. It's going to touch the corners of the rear seat, but if I have to have it then I at least want to be somewhat comfortable. All in all it's going Ok. Got some help from GNocide and Bill over the weekend. I have everything but the passenger side bar tacked into place. I think it looks pretty good so far.

I am surprised on how much work this is turning out to be.

 

[turbofabricator]

Add a bar across the two rear down bars just above the trunk floor. It really helps strengthen the spring purches. I weld a piece of tubing to the frame (INSIDE the tube) that is the same ID as the O.D of the cage. It really makes installing a cage easier. Then weld the outside of the tube to the frame where I can get to it. Then TIG the cage to the piece of tubing sticking up above the floor about a 1/2". Clean and simple to do. You don't have to cut a big chunk out of the floor panel. I use a hole saw and then use sealant to seal it up.
I sometimes use an "X" brace between the down bars inside the trunk, too. Add a section of tubing from the rear lower control arm attactch points to the trans cross member. I then add a couple of diagonal bars from the main hoop to the rear control arm braces under the floor. You can either bend the tubes, hammer the floor up, or cut a hole in the rear foot well to get those bars in place.

 

[Evaddave 87gn]

Add a bar across the two rear down bars just above the trunk floor. It really helps strengthen the spring purches. I weld a piece of tubing to the frame (INSIDE the tube) that is the same ID as the O.D of the cage. It really makes installing a cage easier. Then weld the outside of the tube to the frame where I can get to it. Then TIG the cage to the piece of tubing sticking up above the floor about a 1/2". Clean and simple to do. You don't have to cut a big chunk out of the floor panel. I use a hole saw and then use sealant to seal it up.
I sometimes use an "X" brace between the down bars inside the trunk, too. Add a section of tubing from the rear lower control arm attactch points to the trans cross member. I then add a couple of diagonal bars from the main hoop to the rear control arm braces under the floor. You can either bend the tubes, hammer the floor up, or cut a hole in the rear foot well to get those bars in place.

WOW that is slick! Wish I saw that before I hacked my floor to hell. This is the first roll bar I have installed the next one I do will be done differently.

I was going to add a bar under the car that tied the spring purches together, but now I'll do it inside the trunk. Thanks for the tip.

Do you have any pics of the bars that go to the rear control arms?

 

[Evaddave 87gn]

Ken, any suggestions on the harness attachment points? I have a 5 point Simpson that is bolt in. It also has the quick release ends. Can I just drill a hole through bar and drop in an eyebolt? Or do I need to fab something up with gusseting?

 

[turbofabricator]

Fab brackets to mount the "bolt on" shoulder belts. http://www.jegs.com/i/Competition-Engineering/247/3428/10002/-1?parentProductId=1437236 Be sure to radius and de-burr the edges. If you use the wrap around version (which is what I use) you have to positively secure them like this picture on this 911 Porche. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...-i-need-pic-info-safety-devices-roll-bar.html This is exactly how I do it.