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would like a little more out of a bone stock original 87 GN

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dont want to do to much to it because I will find my self beating the car and breaking something
 
When it's this old, the timing set needs to be changed just because of the age. They seem to last 25 years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. With mileage that low you could probably be just find replacing nothing but the top gear.
 
Have you been through the car thoroughly to make sure it's not down on power? Almost like getting a baseline. Sounds like a low mileage beauty.
 
dont want to do to much to it because I will find my self beating the car and breaking something

The chip you ordered will make it run well on today's gas. Good choice and I'm sure you'll enjoy the car. Make sure the boost control lines are all in good shape; the ones running from the solenoid on the pass side valve cover to the actuator under the turbo and check the "y" connection too and hose to turbo. Don't want the boost going wild and you not knowing it due to the factory gauge being unusable.
 
Glad you didn't fall into the "replace everything" trap that was beginning to show in this thread.

I've always had good luck over the last 25 years by replacing things as they needed it, not just because someone says I should. I like the old addage, if it aint broke don't fix it.

My 86 is my modded hot rod and it modified accordingly. But..... My 87 is my stocker with extremely mild mods (chip and blue top injectors). It has 135,000+ miles and still runs STRONG! Nothing else has been touched. IOW, original everything else.

If your car is running good with no issues, then leave it as is, if that's your desire. The Commander chip is a good choice for your setuup, the stock chips are just no good for today's gas, etc.


I will add though, A Scanmaster should be very high on your list of next purchases.!!!!
 
Hey this is great! Im in the same boat, living in California I pass smog with flying colors and my GN runs great, all original and under 30k miles.
So far only mods are pro touring "LOOKS", but always wanted to make it run 13.0s or 12.9s at the track with 18inch wheels. Is it possible?
Thanks.
 
Glad you didn't fall into the "replace everything" trap that was beginning to show in this thread.

I've always had good luck over the last 25 years by replacing things as they needed it, not just because someone says I should. I like the old addage, if it aint broke don't fix it.

My 86 is my modded hot rod and it modified accordingly. But..... My 87 is my stocker with extremely mild mods (chip and blue top injectors). It has 135,000+ miles and still runs STRONG! Nothing else has been touched. IOW, original everything else.

If your car is running good with no issues, then leave it as is, if that's your desire. The Commander chip is a good choice for your setuup, the stock chips are just no good for today's gas, etc.


I will add though, A Scanmaster should be very high on your list of next purchases.!!!!
I am from the same school keep an eye on thing replace what need to be replaced an I don't want to go off the deep end doing all kinds of thing to it
 
Another vote for the pump and hotwire.

Even a stock car needs a scanmaster to make sure everything is set to proper specs. No other way you'll know - http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+050SCAN2GN+eq++Tp+

Also since oil makeup has changed over the last 25 years - http://www.kirbanperformance.com/products/20/ZDDPlus+OIL+ADDITIVE.html

My first was a bone stock set up and adding a chip, K&N filter, 160 thermostat, fuel pump and downpipe with test pipe really made a difference. They weren't done at the same time and I felt a noticeable difference with each upgrade. This is about $600 worth of parts, biggest being downpipe that you could skip if you're on a budget.
 
Gut the catalytic converter. I replaced mine with a test pipe back when I think my only other mods were a fuel pump and hotwire (not that long ago) and that was the first time the car would spin the tires from a roll.
 
Personally I don't like walbro pumps anymore since they have been counterfeited, I use a company called deatchworks American made 300lph
Fits in exact location and is much quieter due to its impeller design
Most people don't know about the pump but either way you need to do one so So the right one!
Pete
 
what about if I keep the stock injector am I going to have a problem with either of the pumps that where mentioned ?
 
After 25 years or so, they tend to get gummed up. If, and thats a big IF, you decide to keep them, at least get them flowed to varify their condition. You dont have as many miles and others so they will do for now. I normally mod for the future though. Good luck and stay on it!!
 
And, the fuel pump you decide to go with has nothing to due with your injectors, to certain extent at least. The newer fuel pump and hotwire will simply deliver more fuel than the stocker ever could when demanded. If there's no demand for more fuel, then all is well. I recently upgraded to 42lbs injectors with the matching chip. I haven't made any mods to take advantage of them yet though. I also had my stock injectors removed off the car and flowed. That was a waste of money seeing that I already had the injectors/chip combo. Oh well
 
just purchased Commander chip going to start with that
Check your fuel pressure with a gauge that you can monitor while driving.
The commander chip is going to require that you raise the base fuel pressure (idle pressure with vacuum line removed from the regulator) up to 43-45 psi. The instructions will specify. In order to do this with the stock regulator,you will need to crush the regulator. A very large pair of adjustable pliers works well for this as you need to do this while the car is running and you're watching a gauge. If you crush it too far,you won't be able to reverse the procedure. The Commander chip is going to raise the boost from stock to 16-17 psi. This will require your pump to perform better than it ever has in its long life so it is crucial that you find out if it is up to the task. If your fuel pressure is 43 psi at an idle with the vacuum line removed from the regulator and your turbo makes 17 psi of boost you had better see 60 psi on the gauge at full song. If you are shy of that number when you check,you can buy a volt booster and a fuel pump hotwire kit. Depending on how far short of the 60 psi you find yourself to be after the test,these two items should get you where you need to be and you won't have to drop the tank and you need these two items anyway. The injectors are likely to be iffy also. If the car doesn't perform well after the Commander and confirmation of adequate fuel supply,we should look at those next. I have some injectors that will work with that chip in case you need some. That will save you from buying new injectors,which will necessitate another chip.
 
You can use some STP fuel injector cleaner in the black bottle, use full strength at about a half tank. When I worked at a service station, a mechanic there ran a bottle of cleaner hooked directly to the fuel rail through for a cleaning. Or you can pull and have then checked, but its around $20/injector. The stockers will work fine with the upgraded pump.
 
what about if I keep the stock injector am I going to have a problem with either of the pumps that where mentioned ?

How easy does the car start? Does it take a bit to turn over and puff smoke out the tail pipe once it starts? I replaced the injectors on my car and it had only had 9k on it. It was a little hard starting. As I gave the motor more timing, it was evident the injectors weren't up to the task. Never changed my valve springs and went 12.3@108mph letting it shift into OD, crossing the traps at 4400-4500rpm.
 
Personally I don't like walbro pumps anymore since they have been counterfeited, I use a company called deatchworks American made 300lph
Fits in exact location and is much quieter due to its impeller design
Most people don't know about the pump but either way you need to do one so So the right one!
Pete

So the secret is out on the Deatschwerks pumps. lol I have this pump in my car, the walbro's are no longer reliable.

These pumps are awesome, my buddy has a Stage II car and runs this pump so now so does my car. ;)

Here ya go. Cheapest price I could find for $152.00. Maybe a Buick vendor should start carrying these?

http://www.sakarimotorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1385_1386_1399_1407&products_id=4668
 

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Check your fuel pressure with a gauge that you can monitor while driving.
The commander chip is going to need you to raise the base fuel pressure (idle pressure with vacuum line removed from the regulator) up to 43-45 psi. The instructions will specify. In order to do this with the stock regulator,you will need to crush the regulator. A very large pair of adjustable pliers works well for this as you need to do this while the car is running and you're watching a gauge. If you crush it too far,you won't be able to reverse the procedure. The Commander chip is going to raise the boost from stock to 16-17 psi. This will require your pump to perform better than it ever has in its long life so it is crucial that you find out if it is up to the task. If your fuel pressure is 43 psi at an idle with the vacuum line removed from the regulator and your turbo makes 17 psi of boost you had better see 60 psi on the gauge at full song. If you are shy of that number when you check,you can buy a volt booster and a fuel pump hotwire kit. Depending on how far short of the 60 psi you find yourself to be after the test,these two items should get you where you need to be and you won't have to drop the tank and you need these two items anyway. The injectors are likely to be iffy also. If the car doesn't perform well after the Commander and confirmation of adequate fuel supply,we should look at those next. I have some injectors that will work with that chip in case you need some that will save you from buying new injectors which will necessitate another chip.


Some good ideas, but you needn't sound quite so cynical as though nothing is going to work correctly with the chip change. The easiest way to ensure good fuel pressure is to just upgrade to a 237 regulator. In my experience this works very well, even in my 130K + car, and he only has 18,000 on his. Crusing the old 233 regulator is just too iffy, and not to be attempted by someone new to these cars.
 
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