Wtf???

eman035

New Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2004
I just got my car back running the other day and it was running like crap. I had the stock chip in with 42.5# injectors. A new chip was on its way I just wanted to get the car running again. I just put the new chip in tonight and it is no better. The chip I got is from caspers, the ultrachip for 84/85 with 42.5# injectors. I know this might not be the best chip for the car but I already had it ordered. This chip should be good enough to get the car running decent. The scan tool is giving me some wierd stuff. I've got codes 12, 13, 21, 22, 23, 24, 43, 44, 52, 53, 54, and 55. Yeah, Wow! I briefly looked at O2 volts and they were at 0. Knock retard was at 207! and coolant temp was at 0. I know its not that cold outside. Anyone ever have this happen, or have any ideas as to what it could be? Any help would be great.

Thanks, Eric
 
Running rough

Calpack or ECM? I would guess the calpack is bad or not seated correctly. Make sure the computer is plugged all the way in. Make sure the chip is not backwards in the carrier. Good luck.
 
Is it possible to get the chip in the wrong way? When I put it in it looked to me it can only go one way. I will check the calpack and make sure it is seated correctly. Is there a way to test and see if the calpack is good or bad? Thanks for the help.

Eric
 
My ECM kept a lot of codes and ran like crap for some odd reason when I first got it together. Have you reset the ECM? Disconnect the orange wire near the battery for a minute or so, then check it again to see if the codes are still there.

What kind of scan tool are you using?

The chip carrier only goes in one way, did your chip already come in a carrier? (black plastic thing) Shouldn't have to worry about that. Not sure how to check a calpack, other than replacing with a known good.

A lot of other things it could be. You say you just got it back running. Why was it down? Rebuild, or just an injector swap? The reason I ask is because if you only swapped injectors and chip, you may have different problems than if you had done a complete rebuild with the motor out of the car.

Post back with some more info and I am sure you will get your questions answered!!!
 
Thanks for the reply Squid. I did unplug the orange wire to reset the ECM, the codes remained. The scan tool is a Monitor 85, I got it off ebay for about 20 bucks, brand new. I know its not the best scan tool but I would think it would get me close (better than having nothing). The chip did come in a carrier and it will only go in one way. Here is the history on the car: Motor was completely rebuilt but stock & original parts were put back on it. I had a mechanic doing the work that I thought would do a good job (little did I know). The car was put back together but was running rich with the stock injectors. The top end would break up at about 3/4 throttle because it was so rich, black smoke was comming out of the pipes. The other major problem I had was the car would overheat fairly easy, especially when on the highway. With nothing but idiot lights in the car, I overheated the engine one day, had it towed home, then tried to run the car after it cooled and water was in the cylinders. So now I decided that I was going to do all the work on the car to get it right. I had the whole top end off the car, head gasket was blown, took the heads to a machine shop, had them magnafluxed, milled, and checked. Then I went back to work putting the car together. I started replacing parts that needed to be, AFPR, injectors, 160 thermostat, blocked TB coolant lines, put billit breather on, replaced all the vacuum lines, and all the other typical parts to replace when putting an engine back together (plugs, wires, pcv valve, etc...). So now we are back to where I started the car with the original chip. Has anyone ever had or heard of a calpack going bad after a rebuild or overheating? Or is it just coincidence? Thanks for the help, I need it!

Eric
 
Sounds like a bad ecm.
Could be a bad ground wire.
Sounds like the ecm is receiving bad data to throw that many codes.
Need to check your ecm connections for corrosion.
There's a diagram for the ecm in the hot-air sticky at the top of the forum.
What setting you running the ultra-chip on?
Just a few ideas.
 
I'm running the chip on setting #2, which says its the stock setting. I'm going to check all the connections to make sure they are not corroded. Where is the ground wire for the ECM? I'll check that also when I find out where it is. How much, and where can I get an ECM from? If there not too much I might just get one and see if that works. Thanks again for the help.

Eric
 
Check all your grounds.
Should be one on passenger side head,driver's side firewall,negative cable to A/C bracket.

You can check the ecm with a volt meter.
http://www.engraver1.com/help/ecm.gif
See if your getting the correct voltage.
Bweavy gbodyparts.com should have an 85 ecm,if you need one.
 
Where is the ground on the drivers side firewall? I've looked all over the drivers side and don't see anything. There is one ground wire that was connected to the intake manifold in back, but that may have been put in the wrong place by someone else. Also, what size is the ground wire and where does it come from and go to exactly? Thanks again for the help.

Eric
 
Ground

1 copper braided ground on firewall bulkhead, and 1 ground coming out of the wiring harness bolts to the rear of the head on the drivers side. Also check the prongs on your chip and make sure they have'nt been damaged during installation. Oh and one more thing, I know this sounds stupid but make sure you have the right year chip for the ecm your using. Had the same thing happen to me when I got 87 chip for an 85 computer.
 
Should be directly behind the throttle body bracket.
Mine has 2 wires , 1 braided that runs to the bellhousing and 1 that runs back inside the car.
 
I know for a fact I do not have that braided ground wire because I had the whole top end apart and did not see one. There is one comming out of the harness that is bolted to the intake manifold, is this ok or should I move it? If so exactly where? Sorry for being redundant but I just want to make sure I'm getting this correct. The copper braided wire goes from the bellhousing/back of the block, to the firewall? I am going to go to the auto parts store and buy a ground wire and put it on. I will also check the connections on the chip and yes it is for 84/85, at least thats what it says on the package. Thanks for the help everyone.

Eric
 
I would ground them like boostmaster said.
Mine are ground together,one bolt on the firewall.
Never had any issues with it.
 
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