YET ANOTHER NOT "BOLT IN"

TIMINATOR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2020
This is the first Quik Performance rearend that I got from them that doesn't!
I was going to pie cut the area where the shock bolt goes thru, but would have to pull the axles (again! studs were too short too!) to weld the outside. Right now I am considering whether I can angle mill the shoulder of the stud and weld it to the bracket, or do major surgery....
Anyone else have this issue?
I haven't measured it, but it seems like about 25-30 degrees to me.
Suspension is locked solid and won't move a half an inch!!!!
Someday I would actually like to drive this car!
TIMINATOR
 

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I guess you don't have adjustable uppers. Is the pig sitting parallel to the ground?
 
Anyone else have this issue?
I did , I had a spacer made from 1" bar stock with an angle cut made , then used a longer grade 8 bolt so the bolt was straight through the shock grommet .
 
UMI uppers.
Yes it's parallel.
Shock studs are 25 degrees angled up from the stock rearend.
You don't really want my pinion up 25 degrees from where it is now, do you?
That's what it would take to make the shock studs equal to the factory rearend.
See Dynoman's post.
"Gee, nobody has mentioned that before."
And I've never heard THAT from a manufacturer either...
Trying hard to finish this thing before I die!
Having an engine machine and fab shop makes it easier, but it's still my time, and I don't feel like I should have to re engineer every freaking thing I buy! That list is looooong on this project!
TIminator
 

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While not on a G Body, my Moser 9" for my 4th gen Fbody was just like yours. I was younger and alittle dumber than I am now so I drove the car that way for s while. It destroyed my Koni shocks and my fix was wedge shaped adapters to correct the angle.

The older I get the more I appreciate OEM shit!
 
Having an engine machine and fab shop makes it easier, but it's still my time, and I don't feel like I should have to re engineer every freaking thing I buy!
TIminator

You sound like like this is the first Turbo Regal you’ve owned. Lol
It seems with all the information out there these days, parts should install themselves and be all dialed in.
 
They don't hafta do that, but they should at least fit!
This is my 3rd turbo Regal. The first was new in 87. The second was 1999. The fitment on TR parts I have gotten is worse than ever, while the fitment on the big 3 is getting better. Just finished a 67 moosetang, and the only fit problem was a too light set of front coilovers on the Heights Super Ride front suspension. The last several kits they got the spring rate right on!
But then again, the Branda Shelby taillite kit was a NIGHTMARE!!!!!
LOTS of fitting to the tail panel, tail lite lenses,and tail lite surrounds!
The digital dash, trunk release, power windows, wiring kit, Vintage air, dash pad, headers, and more, all fit like they were made for it!
I won't EVEN go into all of the TR stuff that didn't fit MY T Limited without modification!
The next resto mod for my own use is a 1973 Dodge Challenger.
I have done 2 Dusters, a Demon, a Little Red Express, a Cuda, and 2 1970s vintage MOPAR half ton trucks, a 73 big block Capri, 5 of 68 to 72 Novas, a 1970, and a 72 Chevelle, an 80 Pontiac g body, a 1979 El Camino, and a 1970 and a 86 moostang, all for myself in the last 35+ years. Not to mention many more for customers.
I think those other car parts fit because the companies have more experience due to a higher volume of production and feedback.
The Challenger starts the week after my TR is finished. Soon, I hope.
TIMINATOR
 
Tim, same problem I had while at GM!;)
JK!
I discussed that very issue with those guys at least 6 yrs ago.
The issue evidently fell on deaf ears.
My fix was the same as Dynoman's.
 
Tim I will send you a pic of mine
I've had 0 issues and qp rear 9 inch has been in one of my cars I believe around 2012 with an un godly amount of racing and street driven miles on it😁
Only mod we did was to make custom brackets and put a drain plug in.
I do have ad uppers and lowers and rear has been setup to perform.
I will send you the pic
 
Saw the pic. I notice your KYBs? Have a very round "hourglass" shape on the lower mount to allow for some angular misalignment. But mine have a straight tube that has the rubber mashed at the top and bottom on opposite sides, with metal to metal contact. These shocks are new, so I will correct the angle issue. I sent pics to several companies, they all said if a shock came in for warrenty with the bushing rubber angle smooshed (a technical term LOL) like mine is, the warrenty would be denied. It was also mentioned to me that the misalignment will cause a harsher ride, reduced compliance, and reduced rearend travel in some cases. Incidentally, a harsher ride and stiffer travel can be a good thing, depending on if the instant center would cause the rear to squat on acceleration, like a stock G body.
But you know me; picky, anal, and it pisses me off to look at it. So you know I'm gonna change it......
TIMINATOR
 

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that TRZ mount looks very inviting to me. shock eye will be able to rotate in it natural position on compression and extension.
When doing twists or launching we try to keep the body parallel with the road.
 
I have a bit of experience in making cars launch, once I get the bugs out of this one, that will be next.
The new pic shows my solution. The shock height remains the same, as does travel. I have made up extra mounts if anyone is interested. The angle of the dangle now equals the rise of the thighs, and my anality is more complete!
TIMINATOR
 

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The problem that I see with the TMZ units, is you are changing the shock pivot by 90 degrees. Making the bolt go parallel to the rearend. In a situation where only one wheel goes over a bump, the axle changes angle side to side with respect to the body, and unless the bolt to the rear axle bracket was left loose, that would cause a sideways bind in the lower shock bushing. Also, the rear of the QP housing brackets are not parallel to the axle centerline, possibly causing other issues.
My angled adaptors address all of this by keeping the lower shock bolt parallel to the driveshaft, this is important because the shocks are angled outward at the bottom, and as the rear moves through its travel the lower shock mount rubber bushing has to rotate on the bolt to allow the angularity change. "He said, obviously over thinking the problem as usual....."
TIMINATOR
 
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