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Simple request. I'm looking for F6238 and F6237. Let me know if you can help me out. Mark

Alright...2 years off and I'm itching to get back into the car except it sits in a few different pieces right now. :( I had what felt like power loss (gradually) since it was rebuilt and didn't like what was happening, so I decided that I was going to do something about my stock heads to try...

I'm looking to just stay on the cheaper side of things and hold on the aluminum heads for now...unless the port job ends up costing the same (better not). So, I just want to get the right parts and requests to the porting guy. I'm getting the stock flow numbers now and the porter said I...

Medical grade N20 = $2.22-$3.00 per pound Automotive grade N20 = $4.5 and up per pound Point of my banter...I noticed "if" I actually ran NOS I could get a 20# (why not) filled for about $50 through a local gas supplier. The best price I could find for local auto-grade NOS was no less...

I did some searching on this and it seems the opinions vary...but I'm in need of good advice if the porting job isn't that expensive. I'm assuming I can get this done with a local head guy for less than buying GN1s or ported irons. With that, I need to know how to max out these stock...

Can anyone give a reasonable difference between the two? I have the Poston's version and I'm wondering if the ATR might flow better, but I can't find any posts concerning the issue. Just curious as I'm in the middle of tearing the heads/manifold off for porting ;) Thanks, Mark

I'm still running stock heads and a stock manifold. I'd like to keep the steels for now (cheaper) and I'm going to pull the heads anyway to replace the head gaskets. I'm wondering what I should get for head gaskets (does it even matter) and what are some good flow numbers so I can compare...

Well, I can't figure this out totally. I have a billet vac block that leaks pretty much all around the hoses for the fpr, egr, etc. Found some small leaks between the tb and plenum and my fpr leaks at the adjustment screw pretty bad. This all happens at a regulated 23 psi. Now, the worse...

Well, as I have this thing apart to get ready for a leak down, I notice that the oil galleys are not aligned well at all. I have stock unmodified heads and are original (along with the block). In my mind, this seems like it could be a very big issue if I'm having any significant crankcase...

I'm just about to do a leak down test, and I'll need to know the travel so I can reset the lifters when I'm done. They were purchased from PTE about 3 years ago for the billet cam setup. Thanks,

Well, I installed that nice catch-can with a one-way check valve b/w the tb and the pcv. I'm really confused though since it collects so much oil in the canister. I get about 4-5 uses out of the car...maybe a couple more....before it needs to be drained! Is there anything to slow down the...

No parts store seems to know what I'm talking about or says they don't have anything. I need to cap the neck on the water pump that is supposed to feed one of the lines going to the heater core....likewise, I need a brass plug for the manifold, but I know I can get that at any hardware. Thanks

I've found some old posts on the champion kit, but I'm worried about having troubles with the belts. I like the clean and custom look of it too, but then it seem the intake pipe no longer needs to be bent....and I don't know of any intake pipes that are straight to take advantage of this...

I finally got the AC box out and the "major" vent component from the interior. Now, I'm trying to eliminate the upper vent system to make room. Maybe it isn't worth the hassle, but I don't know what is holding this thing from coming out. I found all the visible bolts (I think) and it...

I removed everything and I'm wondering if that vac ball is needed for something other than the cruise control. Thanks,

Maybe I'm misled, but how is it that the car tried to fire with the orange wire disconnected while I was doing a compression check today?? I had 2 plug wires off and was checking cylinder #4 when it started to fire up.....I'm as confused as heck right now! Also, on a side note, I'm...

Well, I've been doing some reading and I'm starting to worry that the vibrations I feel (mild) at about 2-3k might not be so good. The engine had the vibs ever since the rebuild and are probably made more intense due to the 2 poly engine mounts. However, it still has the stock hub and I'm...

I just installed the rjc bstc and I get the ses light coding 31....obviously, it is because I do not have a solenoid in the car anymore....but is there a way to "by-pass" this solenoid so I don't have to have it sitting on the manifold for nothing other than to shut the light up?

Since I barely get more than 3-500 miles a year on this car, I'm thinking the best bang for my buck will be with running 110 octane. I've been running nothing but 100 octane nolead since I bought the car with good results....but I'm thinking 110 will be even more fun. If I were to run 110...

I'm not sure if I should be concerned, but I hear "ticks" that are magnified with a metal rod to the ear in and around the manifold. It isn't overwhelming and is generally limited to when the hood is open...but it does increase with higher revolutions and is definitely rhythmic. It definitely...