2-step for stock ignition systems

[HighPSI]

I normally don't use the gray wire with aftermarket ecu's. If you look real, real close at the FAST connector, you will see the letters across the top and the numbers down the side. Hopefully, my supplimental instructions were clear enough for you.

 

[Alaskabuick]

trigger sticking

Just hooked up my two step on my GN with Classic Fast.

Seemed to work ok in my garage in park, but when took it out and tried a brake brake torque with limiter, it would not release? I am running off my line lock trigger. The unit did what it was supposed to, boost built up just like it was supposed to, let off the trigger and would not go, stayed on the limiter.

Thinking that it was still seeing power on the trigger wire (brown) I even disconnected the power to the brown trigger wire to make sure it was not seeing power.
So then I took and set the limiter up to 6k and the limiter let it run up to that, then I dropped it back down to 3400 and it again limited it back down to that rpm with no power to the trigger switch.

The triggered rpm is sticking on for some reason and their is defiantly no power to the trigger wire.

I have bought two units, so I grabbed my other one out of the box and plugged it in, reved fine until it triggered the limiter, same thing let off the switch and will not release the limit. The trig light is on all the time on both units.

I think this is a kick butt product, but what am I doing wrong?

Dennis

 

[TurboBob]

After our phone conversation I think we have everything ironed out.

Bob

 

[cruzn57]

please explain

After our phone conversation I think we have everything ironed out.

Bob

as I'm using fast classic also,
thanks

 

[Sydwyndr]

The XFI is a diferent animal. Since most of my customers have the internal data logger, I usually wire the trans brake into the PA Enable wire. There are quite a few of advantages to doing it this way.

Yep, took me all of 10 minutes to wire that way. Works like a charm. Thanks again Cal..

 

[Major Nutz]

The XFI is a diferent animal. Since most of my customers have the internal data logger, I usually wire the trans brake into the PA Enable wire. There are quite a few of advantages to doing it this way.

I also want to mention, how easy these are to install. I installed one in a car today in around 20 minutes of which most of the time was spent mounting the box.

Got any pics on where you mounted the box and switch? Going to install mine this weekend.

 

[Boost231]

no pictures but i mounted mine in the glove box.

 

[scot w.]

Got any pics on where you mounted the box and switch? Going to install mine this weekend.

This was specificly made just for the 2-step box so it's nice and easy to get at to make adjustments! This will also hold other items as well such as the GEN2, T-PRO, Ect..

More details here: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/new-product-request/324611-2-step-mount-bracket.html


SW

 

["Turbo-T"]

Looks like a great product. So you can retard the ignition at the tree and then unretard it for launch on a foot brake launch....so does this give new hope to vacuum powered brake cars in prevention of tire spin while doing a brake launch at the tree?

 

[Alaskabuick]

You definitly need to turn the O2 off when on the 2-step. Your above post is one way to do it. IMO: there are a couple better ways to do it. The best way requires you to have the right firmware in your FAST. With this method, you wire the 2-step into the FAST and it ignores the O2 whenever the 2-step is on. I prefer this method since it allows you to run close loop everywhere but when the 2-step is on.

Cal,

I wired my 2 step into the classic fast as per instructions. Does this method allow my fast to ignor the close loop when 2 step is on? Or do I need to make other provisions?

By the way it is up and running well now thanks to Bob Bailys prompt service in fixing my two step that blew a diode out on when triggering in line with my line lock, trust me guys this will hammer your 2 step. This was my fault as I did not realize the line lock kicks back a current surge when you release it and has nothing to do with the 2 step. I fixed this issue by using a relay that is triggered by the line lock current but sources 12v from another source for the 2 step via the relay. Any radio shack has this type of relay.
Bob I wonder if you could offer a relay already wired in to your system to simplify this for people? Just a thought?

I launched on the street the other night with my Dad and a friend in the car, Jeesus! whipflash!

Dennis

 

[HighPSI]

Did you wire it in according to the "supplemental instructions" I include? It depends on what firmware your FAST has in it, but you may need to make a change in the program if it is an older box.

 

[TurboBob]

Cal,

I wired my 2 step into the classic fast as per instructions. Does this method allow my fast to ignor the close loop when 2 step is on? Or do I need to make other provisions?

By the way it is up and running well now thanks to Bob Bailys prompt service in fixing my two step that blew a diode out on when triggering in line with my line lock, trust me guys this will hammer your 2 step. This was my fault as I did not realize the line lock kicks back a current surge when you release it and has nothing to do with the 2 step. I fixed this issue by using a relay that is triggered by the line lock current but sources 12v from another source for the 2 step via the relay. Any radio shack has this type of relay.
Bob I wonder if you could offer a relay already wired in to your system to simplify this for people? Just a thought?

I launched on the street the other night with my Dad and a friend in the car, Jeesus! whipflash!

Dennis

I also added extra diodes into your unit as added protection.

What I need to do is update the manual with additional installation instructions and diagrams for transbrake users.

I will be adding additional protection diodes to the next batch of units, but a transbrake solenoid creates a HUGE voltage spike, so a relay is always a good idea.

Bob

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

wow this was a lot of reading

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

went over this again

i was looking to get the 5.7 chip to run it closed loop
but some where is in here it says that the 2 step needs to be run in open loop.
How would closed loop effect the 2 step/ car performance while using it?

 

[Eric Stage I]

Closed loop will be off with pretty much any chip (including the 5.6 or 5.7 chip) if you are building boost on the 2-step, so nothing to worry about there.

You only need to be concerned if you have a special chip that uses a wideband O2 sensor to enable closed loop while in boost.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

please excuse my ignorance just trying to learn-
the 5.7 chip - lets say i have it set for closed loop, It will go into open loop while on the two step??

open loop = not working off the O2 Sensor
Closed loop = Working/reading O2 the sensor

Closed loop will be off with pretty much any chip (including the 5.6 or 5.7 chip) if you are building boost on the 2-step, so nothing to worry about there.

You only need to be concerned if you have a special chip that uses a wideband O2 sensor to enable closed loop while in boost.

 

[Eric Stage I]

The 5.7 chip only lets you control open/closed loop at idle, so it won't have any relationship to when you are on the 2-step.
The load will be high enough when you are on the 2-step that it will be in PE mode, which turns off closed loop.
Eric

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

The 5.7 chip only lets you control open/closed loop at idle, so it won't have any relationship to when you are on the 2-step.
The load will be high enough when you are on the 2-step that it will be in PE mode, which turns off closed loop.
Eric

thank you very much for your reply
and because of of this type of service you will keep getting my very hard earned money:biggrin:

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Did you or Do you get any KR while on the 2- step in park building boost?

I have been developing a 2-step rev limiter with retard for a while now and its almost done. I let a few people know and they are all asking for details.

So here are a few.

A 2-step is an ignition cutting rev-limiter and on turbo cars like ours has several uses.

1: when running alky injection, if you hit the factory rev limiter in the ECM, the ECM cuts off the injectors, but your alky is still spraying. Now you are at high RPM, high boost, and deadly lean. This breaks engines in a big way. So by setting an ignition cutting limiter below the ECM rev limit you will save your engine if you over-rev.

2: for foot-brake launching, you can reduce the torque the engine makes, and raise the EGT by using an ignition retard when brake torquing. Using a partial rev limit helps spooling on the brakes and also works for rolling brake torquing.

3: for trans-brake launching, generally guys don't use retard, just a full-cut style rev limiter and adjust the limiter setting and their boost controller to set their staging boost level.

There are lots of ways to configure and adjust a system like this, I have just listed a few.

So, on with the show.

[YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]

a picture of the config switches

The unit shown is my prototype, they should be ready for 'you guys' in the early spring. Stay tuned.

Bob

did you get any KR while on the t

 

[TurboBob]

I don't recall, but I may have. Things shake a bit when on the limiter, so a rattling downpipe or other mechanical noise could cause retard. Loose piston to wall clearance could cause it too I suppose.

Bob