10.0 109 build

[DougsfastZ]

I cracked my two front stock pistons and I'm ready to build the stock bottom end up some. The goal with the car is to be able to support steetable 10.0's. Current mods are in the sig.

This is my list so far:

Stock 109 block
.020+ Diamond pistons with total seal file gapped rings
Stock polished rods with ARP bolts
Stock polished crank
Standard bearings

Machine shop work would be, decked, line honed, and bored .020 over. I'll have them balance the rotating assembly with the flywheel and balancer.

I'm still not sure if I'm going girdled with stock main caps or two center billet caps w/o the girdle. It looks to be about $250 more for the girdle and seems worth it to me.

Anything else I'm missing while I'm in there. Looking to keep the budget around $2k.

Will this support a full weight car running bottom 10's?

 

[buickgn87]

If you go with a girdle there is normally extra machining cost to go along with it. They will have to cut the tops of your caps. Make sure who ever does it has done them before.
As oposed to steel caps it's just a line bore thru the mains.

 

[buickgn87]

Around $1k is possible. Providing you have a decent block,crank,rods to start with!


MAIN CAPS #2 & #3 STEEL $149.99

MACHINE WORK $300.00
cleaned/checked
cyl bore +.030" x 6
cyl hone x 6
line bore mains
install cam bearings
install freeze plugs
stk crank OK - Polished
checked stock rods

MAIN BEARINGS KING $29.99
ROD BEARINGS KING $23.94
PISTONS ZL2481F30 TRW SPEEDPRO $299.70
RINGS ZE434K30 SEALED POWER $79.39
RODS press off/on $40.00
ROD BOLTS ARP $69.99
OIL PUMP PICKUP STOCK REPLACEMENT $12.99


TOTAL $1,005.99

 

[disco stu]

Stock crank ain't gonna take low 10's for long.

 

[WSLN 6]

True enough. My stock crank flexed bad enough even with the girdle.

 

[disco stu]

Mine flexed at 10.5 and took out #3 main.

 

[Chris McDade]

Disco, 35lbs of boost didn't help either

 

[disco stu]

Never been over 26.

 

[buickgn87]

You're right. Stock crank will not take a lot of abuse for long periods of time.
The key to making it last is how well tuned the engine is.
Depends on your budget.
I have priced out a short block with steel crank and all the stuff that goes with it for $3k
If a guy only has $1k to spend on the short block like myself, what I posted above fits the bill However, I'm ok living in the 11.50 range....But if you're going 10.0s you have little room for mistakes.

 

[jasjamz]

Man, to be honest I would buy good rods, for the price you are going to spend to recondition stockers. Check out the Scat rods on ebay. Then I would either do option#1, a steel crank and 3 caps, or option#2, a stock crank and a girdle. The buget is going to have to increase...:wink: I have a full weight car too and like it that way. I chose to go #1.

 

[DougsfastZ]

I really wish I had the budget, but I have a 1 month old that takes priority

Staying with my $2k budget, I can't afford a forged crank and rods with the machine work, its just not in the cards.

I figured if I keep the block girdled and I wipe out the crank, I can reuse the block and put in the forged crank and rods.

 

[Grumpy]

The key to making it last is how well tuned the engine is.
Depends on your budget.
.

Tuning is the name of the game especially with stock stuff. we have about 15k miles on our beater motor from Melissa's GN.. we have NO KNOCK !!! It's waiting to go in the Mazda if I like it.

BUDGET ???? hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!! BS.. It grows and grows Oh I have a NEW set of 6" K1 rods for $450. shipped if your interested..

 

[buickgn87]

Tuning is the name of the game especially with stock stuff. we have about 15k miles on our beater motor from Melissa's GN.. we have NO KNOCK !!! It's waiting to go in the Mazda if I like it.

BUDGET ???? hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!! BS.. It grows and grows

I agree...I initially started out with a $5k budget for my build and it was more like $7k. But it could have easily been $10k. I'm sure I'll be throwing more at mine in the future.

 

[49-blues]

If using the stock crank & rods- id have them cryoed.

 

[TurboBob]

I have a new set of Eagle rods, what you got to trade?

If you BREAK the crankshaft, your block will not survive....

Bob

 

[gnpoweredrail]

^^^not true all the time.I got lucky
I broke one at 20 psi between 5-6 and only had to put 2 pistons in it.Rods were checked and ok also.

 

[TurboBob]

^^^not true all the time.I got lucky
I broke one at 20 psi between 5-6 and only had to put 2 pistons in it.Rods were checked and ok also.

That does sound pretty lucky

Bob

 

[jasjamz]

I understand your budget situation. Here is what I'd do: Get your pistons and rings, rod bolts, and other hardware. I'd go with the girdle.
Get in touch with a good machine shop and have your block, crank, rods and heads checked. Get the rotating assembly balanced. See how much that cost you then go from there.

 

[jasjamz]

^^^not true all the time.I got lucky
I broke one at 20 psi between 5-6 and only had to put 2 pistons in it.Rods were checked and ok also.

LOL Had one break, no rod or piston damage. Got a crank from Pete Barton at ANS Performance and put it all back together.

Doug, you may want to buy a used built short block. Just a thought....

 

[TurboBob]

wow, cool.