11" bolt on brakes

How much and where can you get a dual piston caliper for a stock rotor?

The Blazer setup only costs $200-250 if you know what you are looking for and where to go...

Still haven't bled my brakes or driven it(obviously), but that should happen before April arrives, if the weather cooperates. I'm curious how much better the setup is over stock. Should be noticeable at least a little bit, but I'm not expecting a night and day difference.
 
OK so lets make a parts list of the best parts fitment and cost? Monte brake lines? Lets also make a comparison over the LS1 set-up. If we can do this and then figure out a rear disc set-up, we can have ourselves a lot better deal than Bear. I am curious and ready to start buying parts. I run a set of GTA Fronts on my car. Would like to go with bigger in the near future. Can someone that has these set-ups please do a comparison for me? Is there a way to plug the holes from the ABS lines? Thanks ---Jeremy
 
I just cut the ABS brake wiring off at the spindle, sounds like thats what others did as well.

Monte front brake hoses should be the same as all other g-bodies too, so keeping your own is an option. I just replaced mine since they are probably the original 19 year old hoses.
 
Thats the plan for me too! This is a fantastic swap!! I would like to find out the cost differences in these and the LS1. Are the LS1's larger? Any ideas for the rears? I have been doing some research on rear discs and it doesn't sound like there are any boneyard swaps? Does anybody know if these have an effect when 2" spindles drops apply? Does it look like the brake lines will work? Ball Joints, Tie rods, etc still fit into place? Require grinding?
 
has anyone in this thread compiled a complete list of needed parts for this swap??
 
Torx said:
has anyone in this thread compiled a complete list of needed parts for this swap??
Click to expand...

Eric (Turbofish) gave me a complete list of GM part numbers so that I could look up the aftermarket and ebay part numbers and report back here with prices and stuff.

Unfortunately, something came up in my personal life and I did not get a chance to do this. I will see if I can get to it this weekend. Unless someone else wants to do it? :cool:
 
thanks for the effot, i'd like to compare this total with an online shop kit's total.
If i can piece together a set much cheaper than i'd go that route..

pst has a nice bolt on reardisc brake set but its 900 bucks.. yeek!
 
Torx said:
thanks for the effot, i'd like to compare this total with an online shop kit's total.
If i can piece together a set much cheaper than i'd go that route..

pst has a nice bolt on reardisc brake set but its 900 bucks.. yeek!
Click to expand...

I think that most people would agree that the the thing to do is to upgrade the fronts. The rears aren't nearly as important.
 
gosh, i wish someone would do a front disc sticky post for here just summing it all up.

ls1, bbody, blazer....

i need to get some new upper a-arms (why replace bushings when i'm getting new a-arms anyway? hehe) but want to go ls1 brakes in the future and all of this information is an overload... not sure what route i should take or even what all options are avaliable.. BMR, hotchkis, gw, the cheaper ones.. etc :eek:
 
TType84 said:
gosh, i wish someone would do a front disc sticky post for here just summing it all up.

ls1, bbody, blazer....

i need to get some new upper a-arms (why replace bushings when i'm getting new a-arms anyway? hehe) but want to go ls1 brakes in the future and all of this information is an overload... not sure what route i should take or even what all options are avaliable.. BMR, hotchkis, gw, the cheaper ones.. etc :eek:
Click to expand...
I would go for the SCandC uppers ( stage II kit includes the upers www.scandc.com), they eliminate those crappy alignment shims, they allow for a lot more adjustment, the bushings are not effected by the heat of the downpipe and they leave a lot more clearence for your headers or downpipe
 
Hydroboost Vs Vacuum Vs Powermaster

That is an outstanding conversion, and so easy. They still need the pressure across the pads to make them work, though. The HYDROBOOST power brake system would make that an unbelievable combo. The POWERMASTER motor/pump is so unreliable and hard to find. The HYDROBOOST runs off of the power steering pump, and can deliver 1200 to 2000 psi to those calipers at idle pump speed. Spool up the turbo, and the pump speed increase sends more pressure to the HYDROBOOST, holding the brakes even harder. There is also an accumulator on the Hydroboost to supply pressure for 3 stops with power after the engine stops.
 
parts list

I read the pages and also got over loaded so has anyone compiled a faq on exactly what you need to make these blazer brakes work.

1. year of the thruck we need parts off of
2. version 2wd 4wd
3. can you run your origianal g-body lines or do you need the adapters
4. how much better than stock
5.I plan to convert to vacume latter how well do you think tis will work
6. part #'s(gm and aftermarket, napa, advanced, ect) :cool:
7. also do you need to machine any parts?
 
Iv'e been reading so much my eyes are starting to burn. The problem is that I will be addressing the brakes on my T and would like to this upgrade plus new hoses and lines and some gta wheels. I know he said that he would recommend the ls1 brakes with the gta wheels...but would I see any problems in the future if I installed these s10 brakes and later on decided to get some 16" gta wheels?

Can't we get the dual piston caliper from the dealer..maybe its an option on a special version of the same truck
ex like s10 pick-up vs s10 xtreme pick-up, or zr2?

I used to work at a parts store and you would be surprised how that little bit of un-known info can make a differance!
 
12" brake kits for the GN

Hey Guys,

Does anyone make 12" brake kits for the GN yet that utilize the stock, short spindle ? I put on 12" F Body rotors years ago, but at that time, U had to convert to the tall, "B" body spindles off of a Caprice to fit in the 12" rotors. Then I went with the Hotchkis tubular Upper A's, and the car does handle alot better.

However, I'm getting real tired of the "bump steer" and am afraid that I am going to break something. Also I saw in Car Craft (Jan - p.27) that this BMR Fabrication in Florida now makes Upper & Lower tubular A frames for the GN. Don't know if taller spindles are required, or whether U can put 12" brake kits on them. Not sure who else makes a tubular lower A for the GN ?
 
Lynn D. Brown said:
Hey Guys,

Does anyone make 12" brake kits for the GN yet that utilize the stock, short spindle ? I put on 12" F Body rotors years ago, but at that time, U had to convert to the tall, "B" body spindles off of a Caprice to fit in the 12" rotors. Then I went with the Hotchkis tubular Upper A's, and the car does handle alot better.

However, I'm getting real tired of the "bump steer" and am afraid that I am going to break something. Also I saw in Car Craft (Jan - p.27) that this BMR Fabrication in Florida now makes Upper & Lower tubular A frames for the GN. Don't know if taller spindles are required, or whether U can put 12" brake kits on them. Not sure who else makes a tubular lower A for the GN ?
Click to expand...
You can convert over to the LS1 discs. I'm swapping back from the B-body setup to the LS1 setup with tall upper and lower ball joints. Should have most of the tall spindle benefits and less bump steer than stock.
 
less bump steer than stock.
Click to expand...
Don't believe that the stock suspension has much bump steer. The tall lower ball joint will probably increase bump steer, since it will get the tire rod out of line with the lower A arm.
 
Ormand said:
Don't believe that the stock suspension has much bump steer. The tall lower ball joint will probably increase bump steer, since it will get the tire rod out of line with the lower A arm.
Click to expand...

I think thats the first time I herd someone say these cars DONT have that much bumpsteer.. Is your suspension all stock ? :confused: :confused:
 
these suspensions have a decent amount of bumpsteer from every suspension expert I have heard talking about a G-body front suspension. A B-body swap makes it much worse. Taken directly from the Savitske website about their tall lower ball joint...

For cars that include a tall lower ball joint it further improves the camber curves and roll center height for even better handling. It also lowers the car .5”-.75” and moves the spindle and steering arm to a more favorable height radically improving the bumpsteer.
Click to expand...
 
Is your suspension all stock ?
Click to expand...
Yes, the suspension is pretty much stock. Stock ride height, tires 235-60X15. I do have the 36mm F body sway bar, but that should not matter. I know the car understeers badly- a bigger rear sway bar helped that a little. But I've drive it for about 80,000 miles, and have never noticed any significant bump steer. I read a lot of the posts from the "experts" on the Monte board. Two or three of them actually know what they are talking about. What I have NOT seen is any post from anyone who has actually MEASURED the bump steer (or roll steer, if you prefer) It isn't very hard to do. The "Chevy Power" book from 1984 had the procedure, and it's at several of the web sites for suspension parts vendors. GM liked understeer, and they may have designed in some roll understeer, to go with the lousy camber curve, but it's not something I've ever seen identified with any actual test results.
 
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