$1500...how fast?

[xxblakersxx]

I have about 1500 bucks to mod my GN with....its an 87 with 91,000 miles. I was thinking along the lines of:
$300- some nitto dr 275/50/15s for the rear
$200?-fuel pump with hotwire kit
$300?-new fuel injectors-what size is good to have? i plan on upgrading my turbo eventually....
$400-razors alky injection
$100?-chip
Anything else? What would you guys recommend, and what kind of numbers/times you think ill be seeing with something like that? Not committed 100% to going alky, if you guys have any other suggestions please feel free...thanks guys

 

[Grumpy]

scan tool and a Boost guage :biggrin:

 

[xxblakersxx]

forgot to mention i already have a boost guage how much is a scan tool? my laptop is a mac, is it possible to hook it up to it... g4 ibook

 

[buickbert]

scanmaster is around 200-250 used-new post on here that you are interested in one, ive seen more then a few good used ones and new ones for sale here.

buickbert

 

[UNGN]

Before trying to make it fast, just make sure it runs.

If the Fuel Pump hasn't been changed that's #1

If the Exhaust is still stock, get a cat back that flows freely and a test pipe.

Do all the little stuf like a 160 degree thermostat, K&N air filter, fix all the preturbo exhaust leaks, clean the intercooler, etc.

If you don't want to run race gas, buy an alchy kit. and a chip or two for stock injectors/alchy.

I wouldn't worry about injectors until you actually do upgrade your turbo, or drag radials until after you've taken it to the track.

You need to really baseline a car and find out what it needs. Throwing a lot of money at "parts" will just lead to disapointment.

 

[xxblakersxx]

well it has a flowmaster catback, and an exhaust dumptube. it has ATR's cold air kit. I get sad traction as it is with the stock sized tires, so i thought upgrading the tires would be a good idea...I took it to a shop to have it checked out when i bought it and he said everything is working fine. The previous owner babied it..I'd just like a nice streetable boost in power

 

[sweetv6]

porting stock exhaust elbow
intercooler inlet and outlet
matching throttle body to upper intake
open down pipe
locking torque converter
manuel shift 2 to 3 gear (if you have a real rpm for sure)
remove front sway bar
40 psi in front tire

for free

Claude

 

[xxblakersxx]

hmm any guides anywhere on the net for those things? and you said 40 psi in the front tire, which one? or both?

 

[sweetv6]

both

 

[Under Pressure]

save the $ on the alky buy some 42s lbs run race gas when you take it to the track

 

[PhilM]

well ive spent 1500 bucks + some and im still running infinite quarter miles

aint no thang but a chikan wing!

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

I wouldnt buy the 42lbers - get the 60lbers or 50's if you come up on a deal - GET ALKY!!! - especially if this is a 90% street car. Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? Definitely get the fuel pump/hotwire kit. get a chip to take advantage of the Alky.

 

[UNGN]

well it has a flowmaster catback, and an exhaust dumptube. it has ATR's cold air kit. I get sad traction as it is with the stock sized tires, so i thought upgrading the tires would be a good idea...I took it to a shop to have it checked out when i bought it and he said everything is working fine. The previous owner babied it..I'd just like a nice streetable boost in power

Loose the Flowmaster cat back unless you want to run with the Open dump all the time.

The ATR cold air kit is OK, but the 14" K&N that ATR used kinda sucks. The box can use the mouth opened more, don't use the hose or chin spolier (if its the ram air kit) as they can screw with the MAF readings and mess up your fueling.

For Stock GN wheels, don't put on 275/50's. They'll more than likely rub the frame on the street. A good balance of traction and street ability would be 275/60 Nitto Drag Radials. They are taller and narrower than the 50's so they'll fit the stock rim better and will hook better on the street (and will last 1000's of miles more than BFG's or M/T's).

Right side airbag, a heavier rear swaybar and new lower control arms or boxed stockers with new bushings will help the car hook.

If the previous owner babied the car and it idles smooth, I would have any problems running the stock injectors for now as long as it isn't going lean at the track. They'll go as fast as your stock turbo will (faster with alchy).

 

[mrstage1]

$1500 can get you a lot of performance if the car is set up right.

My brother's 87 T and my 87 T both have similar setups and both were done using ebay and Turbobuick.com used parts. Gotta find the deals, right.

Anyway here's what we did: Underdrive pulley on crank only.
Homemade cold air using a K&N filter and drier duct. Filter mounted out behind the grille, just below the lip to protect it from too much debris.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Bleed valve
26x10 Hoosiers on the blue car
275x40x17 BFG drag radials on my Maroon T
Southside machine bars on blue car
Boxed lowers on mine
Pinion snubber on both
Air bag right rear corner only on both
90/10 shocks on BLue car
Dump tube on blue car
Fabricated 3 inch NASCAR boom tube style exhaust on my T
Old Conley mag4 chip in both
TPS set to .45closed-5.0 WOT settings.
Shift points at precisely 5000 rpm
Lockup switch locked in 2nd gear.
Use all 4 gears in the 1/4

All other parts bone stock and in good operating condition.

Blue car ran 12.33@109.8 at 17.5 psi with a 6lb launch(brakes wouldn't hold any higher boost off the line)

My Maroon car ran 12.59@106.6 at 17 psi with a 3.5lb launch(any more boost and the tires would haze 20 feet out. IC relocators and 15 inch rims on mine and it would duplicate the blue cars times easily.)

Blue car has 86,000 miles. Mine has 155,000 miles.

Both cars were done for less than 800 bucks in parts total.

Recently added S10 wheel cylinders and fabbed 3 inch downpipe to blue car. Runs much stronger up top. Looking for 11.80's or better now that the car will hold 10psi on the brakes. Still stock injectors,turbo,intercooler etc.



Hope that helps because it really is amazing how easily you can go fairly quick with these cars.

 

[Dabigguy]

Here are some links that will give you food for thought. First make sure that it is tuned and running properly. Then you can start adding parts.
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/recipes/recipepage.html
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/sunday.html

 

[turboclam]

With 91K you will need to do valve springs. $100 + labor
Make sure your exhaust manifolds aren't cracked and your intercooler doesn't have leaks.

1. Scanmaster $225
2. Fuel pump and hot wire $150
3. Adjustable fuel pressure reg $150
4. Bigger injectors $300
5. Downpipe $300
6. Tires $250
7. Shift kit in tranny $50 + install
8. RJC Power Plate $50
9. 160 thermostat $8
10. Chip $50
11. Adjustable wastegate $75

 

[Grumpy]

"IF" you want to change inj (that you really don't need ) go with 50's or the new type inj .. I wouldn't go near 42's-009's

 

[ANDYS87]

275/50/R15's will fit on factory rims....and without spacers! They work on my car atleast. VERY BIG improvement than the whimpy factory rubber. Do the right rear airbag too!

 

[83ttypecooled]

Hi ,
I disagree!You will never be sorry you installed an alcohol injection kit, helps prevent blown headgaskets and lots worse. Cover your ass when you are increasing the performance of your vehicle.I think 36 to 50 pph injectors will suit your needs fine. Low 12s and high 11s are possible. You should go with the Nittos, good rubber. Have fun!

 

[marred4life]

TRY A LS1 MAFF AND TRANSLATOR YOUR LOOKING AROUND $300.00
THDP
FUEL PUMP WITH HOT WIRE KIT
ADJUSTABLE FUEL REGULATOR
VALVE SPRING 100LBS
55LBERS WITH CHIP
YOUR CAR SHOULD RUN OK WITH THIS SETUP :biggrin: