1982 Regal Limited

[kicdis]

Hi:

Purchased an 82 Regal 3.8 a few days ago, and took it to smog, which it failed miserably. Anyone good at analyzing a VIR and figuring out what exactly it is that I need to do? The smog guy there just told me that the engine is misfiring and the car probably has old gasoline residue.

VIR (first line is @ 15, second is @ 25):

RPM @ 15 mph: 1524
RPM @ 25 mph: 1278

%Co2 Meas: 14.0
%Co2 Meas: 13.6

%o2 Meas: 1.2
%o2 Meas: 1.6

HC (PPM)
Max: 128 GP: 318 Meas: 582
Max: 101 GP: 251 Meas: 484

CO (%)
Max: .93 GP: 2.43 Meas: .60
Max: .73 GP: 2.23 Meas: .59

NO (PPM)
Max: 1097 GP: 2197 Meas: 15
Max: 927 GP: 1997 Meas: 19

Any explanation would be welcomed.

 

[kicdis]

Here are some pics:

 

[charlief1]

Nice looking car. Where are you located? Please go to your user controls and add some info so some one near you can help. The more I look ath the first post you either have a float that isn't working right or the choke isn't set right. Are there any lights coming on, on the dash?

 

[Freddie's Buick]

I'm surprized that any state is doing smog testing on a 28 year old car. It could turn out to be very expensive, (possibly not even do-abe), to restore the vehicle to EPA standards for that year if the vehicle was ever tampered with.

But also it may very well be something simple and inexpensive. I would take what that smog guy said with a grain of salt. My experiance is that most of those guys know nothing about how cars work or how to troubleshoot an emissions failure.

Back in the day when my state encouraged this scam, there were shops situated near the inspection station that knew the passing parameters and tweaked and tampered with the vehicle for $50.00 just to get it to pass. Half of the time one would pass but the vehicle idled and performed horribly.

I suggest you go to a certified reputable carb shop and have them re-calibrate the carb and check the emissions system along with the catalytic converter. These are the areas were state emissions standards focus in on. A good shop will garentee that the vehicle will pass and run preliminary emissions checks to certify they are within state minumums.

Be ready to spend good money though. This is the only way you will pass, (you could always sell it on e-bay outside of the state you live in and be rid of it).

 

[b4black]

NICE LOOKING CAR! :smile:

If I am reading it right, you only failed Hydrocarbons (HC), which is unburnt fuel.

I doubt you are simply getting too much fuel. Maybe not enough air, so check the air filter.

I would doubt it's a misfire. On a computer controlled car, I would suspect a lazy oxygen sensor first. I would change it on a car this old. If you trust the smog guy about the mis-fire, can't hurt to change the spark plugs.

Also, new motor will certainly help. Old oil gets past the rings easier and comes out the exhaust as HC. (Old oil typically has a fair amount of fuel, blow-by, in it).



A lazy or cold catalytic converter can lead to high HC. Run it wide on throttle soon and get it good and hot to cook any junk off it.

 

[stage2]

Sounds like carb issues to me. The electronicaly controled carbs were touchy beasts. If it's not set up right or you are getting bad input from one of the sensors, the car will run very rich.

 

[charlief1]

I can say that with the NOX level being so low that the cat is working right. It's deffinatly a carb issue. Either flooding or choke being stuck. If the puter is working right you should hear a clicking sound from the carb while the engine is running.

 

[usetaboost]

I'd try cleaning up the carb and linkages and drop in a new air filter if the other one is dirty.

That's a very nice car btw

 

[WkillGS]

Also, new motor will certainly help. Old oil gets past the rings easier and comes out the exhaust as HC. (Old oil typically has a fair amount of fuel, blow-by, in it).

Hey Rich... I think you mean 'new motor oil', not 'new motor' There's quite a difference! LOL

 

[b4black]

Yes, new motor oil. :redface: I better fix that before someone else reads it.



If it were the carb running the engine constantly rich, a working oxygen sensor would be sent out of range and the check engine light would come on. A lazy sensor can throw the A/F rich, but often will not turn on the light.


I found these electronically controlled carb work great and are reliable UNLESS someone has tried to adjust them. They sealed up the adjustments for a reason. Too many people cut the plugs out to 'fix them' and screwed them up for good. I would check everything else first before touching the carb. I'd swap another 2-bbbl carb before messing with the original.


I assume the computer is working properly. The Check Engine light should turn on when the car is first started, then go out after a few seconds. If not, start looking there. A shop manual and scan tool of ebay will be very helpful.

 

[kicdis]

Alright, changed the oil and oil filter and sprayed some carb cleaner onto the carb. She runs a bit better (i think) but shuts off in the early stages of a car ride whenever i come to a stop.

Nice looking car. Where are you located? Please go to your user controls and add some info so some one near you can help. The more I look ath the first post you either have a float that isn't working right or the choke isn't set right. Are there any lights coming on, on the dash?

Im in San Diego, so if anyone in here can let me roll through and give me some help... haha. As far as lights on the dash goes, they come on like b4black noted, but goes off after a few seconds. I see the battery/volt light, oil/choke light, and the check engine light.

I can say that with the NOX level being so low that the cat is working right. It's deffinatly a carb issue. Either flooding or choke being stuck. If the puter is working right you should hear a clicking sound from the carb while the engine is running.

I don't hear a clicking sound. I do hear a loud sucking sound which makes me wonder if there's a vacuum leak? She does show show some lag during accelerations esp when going up hill or shifting from 1st to 2nd.

Too many people cut the plugs out to 'fix them' and screwed them up for good. I would check everything else first before touching the carb. I'd swap another 2-bbbl carb before messing with the original.


I assume the computer is working properly. The Check Engine light should turn on when the car is first started, then go out after a few seconds. If not, start looking there. A shop manual and scan tool of ebay will be very helpful.

What is the 'everything' that you are referring to? How much would a new carb or carb repair normally run me at a shop? Like most everyone who first joins the Regal wagon, I don't have much money to spend...

 

[Freddie's Buick]

Spend the money on the carb. Send it out to a professsional certified reputable carb shop. It is the heart of this vehicle. If it is'nt the problem, it's still worth the effort. No one can give you a ball park figure. The vehicle has crossed the thresh-hold into it's golden years. Consider it now a classic.

In order to keep a daily driver with this many years of existance, one should have a workable knowledge of the mechanical aspects to keep it road worthy, (or a good sized wallet). It's one or the other, or a combination of both. That's a very nice looking car. It may very well be worth it.:biggrin:

 

[charlief1]

If you don't hear a clicking sound the fuel mixture solinoid isn't working right. Either the puter has a problem or the solinoid is burned out. You need to have someone hook up a scanner and see what's going on.