1st Dyno ever with my '87 GN...How can it run 12's?

I did a dyno run on my GSx and the first pull was 275 hp. We found when I took off the air cleaner I gained 20 hp over the whole curve and another 500 rpm on the powerband. I expressed a hope that I could finally get it into the 12's and a lot of people told me was not possible. Next time at the track turned 12.85 with terrible 60 ft. Its all about area under the curve and torque. Dyno is just a way of knowing where your tune is and spotting problems. You really have to stay with the same dyno.
 
Although I run Turbo Tweak chips, you have a great chip.
I would leave it alone and learn to tune with it.
You need an adjustable fuel pressure gauge to set the fuel at what your chip maker suggest and then tune from there.


Okay ES1,

I guess I will be ordering a Fuel Press reg. I was told that it was not necessary with the T+, Extender chip and my 340 w/hot wire kit. But after reading all the suggestions posted, it seems that I do REALLY need to get one.


Any more suggestions?

Thanks.:biggrin:
 
I don't remember if you had a scantool or not but a Scanmaster is a good self contained one for a street car.
 
I can't remember my tq # cause it was several years ago, but my GN with stock turbo dyno'd at 308rwhp and ran 12.40's. My TTA bone stock dyno's at 236rwhp and it runs mid 13's.
 
Okay ES1,

I guess I will be ordering a Fuel Press reg. I was told that it was not necessary with the T+, Extender chip and my 340 w/hot wire kit. But after reading all the suggestions posted, it seems that I do REALLY need to get one.


Any more suggestions?

Thanks.:biggrin:

You may have problems elsewhere, or simply you need to tune it in better. With your set up, I ran 11.40 pretty easy, not on 16psi boost though. Do you have a scan tool?
 
You need a fuel pressure gage to set your fuel pressure, that's what the regulator will do, allow you to adjust the pressure of the fuel going into the fuel rail, which feed the injectors... As far a needing another stock MAF sensor, I wouldn't no why you would, as long as the one you have is working.
You do need a scanmaster or something to help you keep the "Beast" tuned properly. Get a Alky kit and tune it in, then turn up the boost slowly, and the fun really begins. But the best place for that is the drag strip, no fines, no tickets, no points, and you get to keep your drivers licsense.
You came to the right place for advice, we all will be happy to help you spend your money! Good Luck and welcome to the dark side! One other thing that I need to tell you, if you sell your car now you will probably make a profit and avoid getting addicted to "Buick Crack" you see the faster you make it go the faster you want it to go, just like crack, got to do a litle bit more each time to get the same high.

Chuck
 
You may have problems elsewhere, or simply you need to tune it in better. With your set up, I ran 11.40 pretty easy, not on 16psi boost though. Do you have a scan tool?

What was your best time? I've heard the fastest stock turbo car was 11.37 and that was with a dutt neck intercooler and more mods. Was that 11.40 with stock injectors also? Please give us more info.
Scott
 
Area Under Curve

"This is the area under the power curve throughout a given rpm band.* Best case would be to have the most area under the curve to provide the best acceleration."

Simply put, the "Area under curve" allows the engine to do more "work" (i.e. accelerating the mass of the vehicle) at every rpm point. :)

So not just the "peak" (HP & Torque) numbers are important... Also important is how much of both you are making along the way..... :D


http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/turbo-lounge/159258-why-gns-so-quick.html?highlight=area+under+curve
 
I don't remember if you had a scantool or not but a Scanmaster is a good self contained one for a street car.

ES1,

No Scantool here. No aftermarket DP. No aftermarket turbo. Stock IC with Dutt neck. Just a big fuel pump(340) w/hot wire and injectors(50lbs) with a stock fuel press reg. and a homemade CAI with T+ w/Extender chip. 2 1/2" Test pipe and dual ATR exhaust. Autolite 24's gapped at 0.035.

Do you think my dyno numbers are low 246/308? I looked at the dyno sheets again and noticed that the car was pulled to 5,700rmps each time, I wonder if taking it to 6,000rpms would have made any different. According to the chip manual, the rev limit is set for 6,350 rpms.

Also, the extender chip manual says that all parameters are set based on 45psi of fuel. So I guess I NEED TO GET A fuel press reg and a gauge to adjust it. During the dyno session, I had to adjust the T+ MAF WOT dial to 5 (10% richer)...so I guess she needs fuel.

I hope this helps me. I just think this car should have more based on the mods that came with the car when I bought it...(except for the test pipe and the homemade cai kit)

Thanks ALL for helping me.:D
 
ES1,

No Scantool here. No aftermarket DP. No aftermarket turbo. Stock IC with Dutt neck. Just a big fuel pump(340) w/hot wire and injectors(50lbs) with a stock fuel press reg. and a homemade CAI with T+ w/Extender chip. 2 1/2" Test pipe and dual ATR exhaust. Autolite 24's gapped at 0.035.

Do you think my dyno numbers are low 246/308? I looked at the dyno sheets again and noticed that the car was pulled to 5,700rmps each time, I wonder if taking it to 6,000rpms would have made any different. According to the chip manual, the rev limit is set for 6,350 rpms.

Also, the extender chip manual says that all parameters are set based on 45psi of fuel. So I guess I NEED TO GET A fuel press reg and a gauge to adjust it. During the dyno session, I had to adjust the T+ MAF WOT dial to 5 (10% richer)...so I guess she needs fuel.

I hope this helps me. I just think this car should have more based on the mods that came with the car when I bought it...(except for the test pipe and the homemade cai kit)

Thanks ALL for helping me.:D
these numbers are close to stock because you did not change anything from stock levels you said you were running 15 psi well stock is 14.5 to 15 psi. Just because you threww some money into it doesnt mean its going to run faster. adding 3 gallons of racefuel isnt going to do nothing but be cut down on octane when mixed with lower octanes you wer probably running 95 to 96 octane. also you dont need to pull these cars past 5200 your just wasting hp the cam is only good for 5000 if you had ported heads and intake and bigger cam you can justify going past 5200 because your going to make more hp. these cars were rated at the wheels 245/355. the older muscle cars were rated at the flywheel i had several bigblock cars lets take for instance my 1970 442 w-30 rated at 370 hp NO FRIGGAN WAY:eek: ONLY DYNO'D AT 295 AT THE WHEELS 20% loss at drivetrain 74 hp looks close at 296 ran 13.30 in quarter so drop 40 horses id say 13.70 thats what a bone stock gn would run. there is no way thay dyno at 201/290 that in no way would get you a 13 sec time slip definatly a high 14 to low 15 timeslip
 
Not to mention that adding higher octane fuel without increasing the timing will yield lower power #s because the combustion timing is too late with higher octane...so the mixture is exploding after the piston is well on its way with its downward motion...after TDC. Higher octane takes longer to reach full combustion.
 
Not to mention that adding higher octane fuel without increasing the timing will yield lower power #s because the combustion timing is too late with higher octane...so the mixture is exploding after the piston is well on its way with its downward motion...after TDC. Higher octane takes longer to reach full combustion.

yes which results in higher egts
 
What was your best time? I've heard the fastest stock turbo car was 11.37 and that was with a dutt neck intercooler and more mods. Was that 11.40 with stock injectors also? Please give us more info.
Scott

I made a mistake reading his set up, was looking at the second guy that posted's set up. But I did it on BFG dr's, T+ and extender chip, 50's, 52 turbo, walbro 340 etc. Wish I could have ran it on slicks, could have seen som 11 teens
 
Top