2 inch Crack on my THDP!!!

[Turbojorge]

I was cleaning under the hood Sunday morning when I noticed a big crack on the DP right where "elbow" part conects to the straight pipe going to the cat! I honestly don't know when and how it happened, as I only drive the car and work on it on the weekends. I can feel and hear the exhaust comming out threw the crack when the car is running. I know nothing that is post-turbo can affect performance, but would it be O.K. just to weld the crack like one would on a header? It is atleast a 5 year old DP. Has this happened to anyone before?
TIA

 

[Two Lane]

Weld away...no problem to repair.

I'm sure you were surprised when you found the crack, though!

 

[strikeeagle]

I think I'd want to know what caused the crack (so it doesn't happen again), and whether Terry would be willing to cover it, regardless of how old it is...

Is the DP clamped or welded to the exhaust (it shouldn't be)? Cat (it seems to say so) or dump pipe? Is the cat or dump pipe supported using a properly modified, factory cat hanger?

 

[Mike Licht]

Now why would Terry "cover" a crack in a pipe that is 5 years old? When is his "obligation" over? If this pipe was 20 years old would you expect him to still warranty it? How do we know that the installation (no flame Turbojeorge, just conversation!) did not cause it? Something like a broken hanger or a dent in the pipe.
I am just curious about your thoughts here not wanting to start a fight.
Mike

 

[strikeeagle]

Mike,

I certainly don't mean to suggest that Terry is under any obligation. Even so, Terry may be inclined to help, as a courtesy, or a matter of interest.

Also, Terry may be aware of similar problems, and what precipitated them. For example, the piece may have weakened during the bending operation - purely a hypothetical.

I know if something happened to a part I bought from you that I couldn't explain, even 10 years later, I'd probably look you up and pick your brain - but not expecting that you "owe" me anything.

I build multi-million dollar chemical process plants for a living. You can call me any time, from anywhere around the world, with any problem, big or small, day or night, and I will do my absolute utmost to help - that's just the way it is here...

 

[GNX]

Weren't the pipes made in STEEL as well as stainless? If it's steel maybe it was weakened by rust.

I have the stainless THDP, which should last way longer than regular steel.

I would think that a tear in the pipe at that location, could have been caused by bottoming out somewhere along or underneath the car. Since the area that you have the crack is more rigid than the exhaust under the car, that could have been an area of high stress?

If it's stainless, I can't imagine that a vendor wouldn't help you somehow. Repair it cheap, unless it's obvious that it was abused.

I have a customized car that had a similar situation happen. After 12 years, the guy that did the work (stainless) fixed it for free. I was prepared to pay him.

I guess it boils down to some people are nicer than others and don't consider a customer a bother. It may also have something to do with the quantity of customers having the same problem. I may have been the only one to have had any problems with my system.

On the other hand, another vendor might get a little freaked by the time he gets call 200 about his trick door latches or whatever, not holding up. No flames intended. HTH

 

[Turbojorge]

Originally posted by strikeeagle
I think I'd want to know what caused the crack (so it doesn't happen again), and whether Terry would be willing to cover it, regardless of how old it is...

Is the DP clamped or welded to the exhaust (it shouldn't be)? Cat (it seems to say so) or dump pipe? Is the cat or dump pipe supported using a properly modified, factory cat hanger?

First, let me just say that I did not post this to start any war against TH. I don't expect him to replace it (although I wouldn't turn one down ) because.....it's old and things happen. I just want to see if I can fix it. Thats it. Also, It was on the car when I bought it in 2000 and I don't have any sort of "proof of purchase." All I know is It was installed by a local TR specialist in 97 (I have labor records) along with the T-netics Cheetah I replaced in August of this year.

The DP is welded to my test pipe (w/dump) which is bolted on (4 bolts) to an ATR 2 1/2 stainless steel duals, all with ATR hangers and such.

Their is about an inch and a 1/4 between the DP and the chasie (spell?). Engine is tied down, although I have snaped 2 tie down eye hooks in the past year and a half. Hmmm... One of those was two weeks ago at the track, but I rechecked everything after and didn't notice any thing.

Can I just weld it and be O.K.?

 

[ijames]

If you can, drill a 1/8" hole at each end of the crack. Then weld up the holes and the crack. If it's mild steel just MIG it; if it's stainless steel you need to TIG it and that's harder to find. A friend's stainless steel thdp developed a crack about 1" long right at the elbow where the extra piece is welded on to expand the pipe to cover the puck (I know, clear as mud, huh? ). He pulled it off the car and I drilled both ends and had a guy TIG it up at work and it's been fine ever since.

 

[strikeeagle]

Jorge,

1. Does your set-up use a modified, OEM cat hanger? If not, it may not be properly supported.

2. The DP to cat or dump is supposed to be a slip fit, to minimize forces on the DP, turbo and engine.

3. Try a stainless steel eyebolt and related hardware- it won't break. McMaster Carr or the equivalent should be able to set you up.

 

[U1ARUNIT]

Originally posted by Turbojorge
The DP is welded to my test pipe (w/dump) which is bolted on (4 bolts) to an ATR 2 1/2 stainless steel duals, all with ATR hangers and such.

I think this connection is supposed to be a slip fit..? Maybe that contributed to it cracking.

 

[salvageV6]

McMaster Carr sells forged eyebolts you can use that hold up better.

I would go to an HR Parts polymount however.

 

[Turbojorge]

Originally posted by strikeeagle
Jorge,

1. Does your set-up use a modified, OEM cat hanger? If not, it may not be properly supported.

2. The DP to cat or dump is supposed to be a slip fit, to minimize forces on the DP, turbo and engine.

3. Try a stainless steel eyebolt and related hardware- it won't break. McMaster Carr or the equivalent should be able to set you up.

1. Well, I will asume, since it's an ATR piece, it is modified.

2. The cat that was their before I put the dump in (about 3 weeks ago) was also welded to the DP. Because of the cut I had to make on the DP to get the cat off, I had very little room for a slip fit.

3. If my memory serves me correctly, the first time I broke and eyebolt I replaced it with a stainless steel one, which is the one that just broke. I don't know why they pop like that, the motor mounts only have about 12K miles on them (Both on motor and tranny).

It's not a stainless steel DP, so I'm just going to get it Migged, since I really can't afford a new one.

Thanks Guys.

 

[GNX]

At the first you said it was a THDP...your last post said it's an ATR??? That could make a difference. Maybe a big difference???

 

[salvageV6]

Try a forged one and try a poly motor mount, they work.

 

[dsa87gn]

Originally posted by strikeeagle
Jorge,

1. Does your set-up use a modified, OEM cat hanger? If not, it may not be properly supported.

2. The DP to cat or dump is supposed to be a slip fit, to minimize forces on the DP, turbo and engine.

I'll be putiing on my THDP w/Dump soon. It is the newer stainless one. If i am interpreting this correctly, there shoudn't be a clamp or anything where the downpipe meets the dump ?

What kind of mods should be done to the stock cat hanger for proper support ?

 

[Brian Mc]

To clamp or not?

I was advised by Keith of NCTURBOS to not clamp it, i coated it with anti-seize and installed it with the stock hanger, no leaks or cracks!

 

[strikeeagle]

No clamp where the DP meets the cat or dump - it's a slip fit.

You may need to mod the OEM cat hanger - including drilling out the OEM rivets and using the TH supplied strap - there should be complete, accurate installation instructions with the DP.

Remember stainless steel tends to gall - use anti-seize and don't get carried away with tightening. And if you think you need another stainless steel flat washer or lock washer or a slightly longer bolt to make the installation "just right", you probably do...

And my stainless steel eyebolt on my torque strap has held up forever. Proper material, diameter, length, thread pitch. Proper supporting flat washers, lock washer, cap nut - it'll never bend, nor will it destroy the alternator, and it looks great...

 

[Turbojorge]

Originally posted by GNX
At the first you said it was a THDP...your last post said it's an ATR??? That could make a difference. Maybe a big difference???

No, the DP is a Terry Huston, the cat back exhaust is and ATR 2 1/2.
Sorry if I mixed you up.

 

[Two Lane]

Poly Motor Mounts

Here's another post to encourage you to get the
www.hrpartsnstuff.com motor mounts.

Ends that problem correctly forever.

HTH

 

[dsa87gn]

Originally posted by strikeeagle
No clamp where the DP meets the cat or dump - it's a slip fit.

You may need to mod the OEM cat hanger - including drilling out the OEM rivets and using the TH supplied strap - there should be complete, accurate installation instructions with the DP.

Interesting...Got no instructions or strap with mine. I was just gonna slap it in there and get a bigger clamp where the two pipe meet. I guess it'll be anti-seize instead. Glad I came across this thread.

Right now my OEM cat hanger is hanging my Hooker Test Pipe .
Is the strap I'm missing like a replacement hanger ?