I don't see 9's being an issue with a properly built 200-4R.
I've got several units living LONG lives in the bottom to mid 10's.
Those are the fastest I know of to date. One was built 4-5 yrs ago and I just found out about it several months ago.
Doing it without billet parts...
It's possible but stupid to try IMO.
The parts are reasonably priced and with the cost of fluid being what it is now, ONE R&R to fix a broken fwd drum and you are 1/5th of the way to buying the drum in just fluid, not counting a tow, labor, etc.
I've seen broken fwd drums come out of completely stock BRF cores with 40K miles on them. The one I've seen was from a high 11 second car, original trans, broke pulling up an inclined driveway. Barely above idle...
Calibration....
The calibration I was using 4-5 years ago that was capable of 10s or better is still just as capable.
However there is nothing wrong with improving the program.
IMO the WOT shifts were PERFECT back then, they left nothing to be desired.
A fast positive shift that obviously was letting the clutches stay alive.
I never really cared for the part throttle shifts though.
When you cut your teeth on TH400's you get accustomed to a certain shift quality. One that is clean at light throttle, crisp at part throttle, and FIRM at WOT.
The 200-4R just didn't have that.
One reason is that it is a synchronized shift. Much harder than a clutch over clutch. All the builders here are aware of that.
Another reason IMO is the dual feed mod that some of us prefer.
It either causes a bind up at part throttle with great WOT, or you can get rid of the bind up and keep the perfect WOT, but you get a very slightly lazy 2-3 at light throttle.
I mean VERY SLIGHTLY lazy.
It's not something most customers would even notice or complain about, because let's face it, these car's don't see a bunch of time at 1/4 throttle or less.
But a picky builder will notice it, will spend some time trying to improve it, and a few seperator plates later may have it all figured out or may not.
I personally played with the 2-3 accumulator orifices, the 3rd feed size, band release orifice, checkball/no checkball, plugged/not plugged.
I did some testing for Chris at CK 2-3 yrs ago using some ideas he had and wanted independent feedback.
I was impressed because he had fixed the slight laziness and cleaned up the shift at all throttle angles with a minor calibration change.
Chris has spent some time developing his calibration, like I'm sure every builder here has.
However the difference is,
he has posted MOST of the information here for the masses.
He hasn't just came on here and told everyone to PM him, or say he's been doing it for decades now.
I have no issue with a builder keeping calibration secrets to themselves.
That is hard earned information that only those here who build these things day in and day out REALLY understand.
I've seen most of the calibrations. I've bought Bruce's kit, I've bought TransGo's, I've bought Art Carrs, I've seen TCI's, I've bought Chris's, I've talked to most of the big names on here and exchanged notes.
There are some different methods to building them and definitely some different calibrations (although most are more similar than many of the builders would like to admit).
There are too many successful builders on here for any one builder to claim they are the only builder who has THE "calibration".
I also don't see an issue with improving what you have that works.
I could have stuck with the same calibration I used 5 yrs ago that worked, but I feel I'm sending out a better unit now than I used to. Even if it's just a very minor shift feel improvement at light throttle.
I've been doing some further testing recently trying out some other changes since we have been using a test car on all the 200-4R builds. It gets interesting at times