You say that you had the trans replaced and that you have the original trans with the original valve body and governor. I would be shocked to find out that your current trans has a BR valve body and turbo Regal governor. If both of those pieces are the wrong parts ,all you have to do is remove them and install the same parts from your original trans. You won't even have to remove the current separator plate. But again ,a picture would tell every thing. If you remove the pan, the governor comes out with the removal of four bolts. Very easy.
200R-4 Short shifting
- Thread starter TURBO2
- Start date
The problem is the original transmission from new was always short shifting.
I missed that.
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
It may have never had the right gov/vb combo if it wasn't shifting well . I know mine got worked over by three different dealers under warranty and it never really shifted well. I didn't know any better back then and there is really no telling what they did to the trans. This is why TType6 is asking for pix. Just because you were told it was the stock stuff doesn't mean it is.
I'm beginning to think that my GN was one of those built right after a holiday weekend, when no one wants to be at work, or giving a *uck. The transmission has never been right since new always short shifting, it never seemed to have the power of other stock GN's (even stock Mustangs would easily win in street racing), the brakes were absolutely worthless (65-0 in about 1/4 of a mile on a good day) and 100's of trips to the dealer just to hear "That's to GM Spec". Like you I was too young to know any better. I should have told them they have a week to fix it or replace it.
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
just because the factory and dealer didn't want to help doesn't mean it can't get fixed now. Ttype6 is very knowledgeable along with a bunch of guys in here. if you are willing to do some work and take a trans fluid bath or three I'm sure it can be remedied. if you are wanting it fixed by others you must find a competent and honest shop for that. Not an easy task.
I've been working on it.
I put in a new brake system and finally have brakes that can compete with newer sport cars.
I've been working on engine upgrades for years but getting parts that aren't what were advertised made it a nightmare to try and diagnose. One of the worst was a 42# injector and chip combo from Kenne Bell. I fought for years to figure out why it performed even worse than stock. I finally switched to 60# injectors and it got better. Just recently I found the 42# injectors and used them on another car I have and found that I couldn't get that vehicle to run right with them. I sent the part number into Witch and found out that Kenne Bell *ucked me over, these injectors were 28# stock injectors. All those years of fighting problems caused by con artists (and that was just one occasion).
I just recently was getting it tuned in and it all went to shit, knocking and clanging while idling, then running with a little bit of a stumble, and back to the knocking. I turned off one cylinder at a time and found #4 to be dead. I changed the coil on plug, then the wire, with no change, then pulled the plug and found it no longer had a ground strap (first time ever seeing a spark plug come apart) and the center electrode was beat to shit, and ready to break off. So now that chunk of metal has beat up the cylinder, gone through the valve, and is either in the turbo or CAT.
I originally replaced the blown transmission with the Raptor thinking that it would finally solve all the short shifting problems, but once again was just another cluster ****. If the engine isn't toast, then it looks like I'll be taking the transmission pan off again. I messaged Dave H to see if he had any Idea why it's always short shifting even with a completely different transmission.
I've been working with Eric at Turbotweak, and Cotton's through the past few years to get to the point I'm at now.
I put in a new brake system and finally have brakes that can compete with newer sport cars.
I've been working on engine upgrades for years but getting parts that aren't what were advertised made it a nightmare to try and diagnose. One of the worst was a 42# injector and chip combo from Kenne Bell. I fought for years to figure out why it performed even worse than stock. I finally switched to 60# injectors and it got better. Just recently I found the 42# injectors and used them on another car I have and found that I couldn't get that vehicle to run right with them. I sent the part number into Witch and found out that Kenne Bell *ucked me over, these injectors were 28# stock injectors. All those years of fighting problems caused by con artists (and that was just one occasion).
I just recently was getting it tuned in and it all went to shit, knocking and clanging while idling, then running with a little bit of a stumble, and back to the knocking. I turned off one cylinder at a time and found #4 to be dead. I changed the coil on plug, then the wire, with no change, then pulled the plug and found it no longer had a ground strap (first time ever seeing a spark plug come apart) and the center electrode was beat to shit, and ready to break off. So now that chunk of metal has beat up the cylinder, gone through the valve, and is either in the turbo or CAT.
I originally replaced the blown transmission with the Raptor thinking that it would finally solve all the short shifting problems, but once again was just another cluster ****. If the engine isn't toast, then it looks like I'll be taking the transmission pan off again. I messaged Dave H to see if he had any Idea why it's always short shifting even with a completely different transmission.
I've been working with Eric at Turbotweak, and Cotton's through the past few years to get to the point I'm at now.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
The best way to contact Dave is to call him using the number on his web page , 516-285-1103 . Dave is the MASTER of the 200-4r trans !
When I get to ripping the transmission pan off again, I can get some pictures.
It just seems strange to me that two totally different transmissions and both have the same problem.
I'm beginning to think that maybe something inside was sticking after being wired incorrectly and used that way for so long. I finally got the engine running halfway decent and did a few WOT runs. Each time it looks like the shift point would raise up a little bit. I had to quit because of a storm moving in, but the last run was shifting at 4,885 rpm.
UPDATE: The transmission is now shifting where it should be, but it looks like the damage to the transmission was already done by the incorrect wiring. I have it running at 20 psi boost in 1st and 2nd gear with no knock, but the 0-60 times are coming up as almost 7 seconds, and 1/4 mile times slower than an economy car at 16-19 seconds. Just one mistake of having the wrong person work on the car, and $3,500 down the shitter. (plus installation cost)
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