I'll try to keep this down to relevant info only.
Car was driven 42k miles in the first 2 years of it's life, got totalled, engine went into a regal body, went to body shop for paint, never got finished. Guy I bought it from said he had it 12 years in climate controlled storage (bare metal on body), turned it over a few times but never heard it run. I'm yanking the motor to go into a hybrid project, likely a very heavy station wagon. Engine will be on a stand for a year or two regardless of what has to be done to it. Currently bone stock, down to the original plug wires, air filter, nonadjustable wastegate and the oil spewing passenger valve cover breather setup.
Question is, what do I do to it? I'm thinking a minimum of a timing chain, valve springs, rear main seal, and associated gaskets to get to them. Should I pull a bearing cap or two and look at the bearings? I have access to a high dollar borescope, but I'm thinknig I want to pull the heads anyway and do some head work to it. This will be a low boost 91/92 octane motor, probably won't even get an alcohol kit, at least not right away. The internet gods seem to say that porting the bowl area makes for huge gains on octane limited applications. It WILL get the typical bolt ons: 3" downpipe and good exhaust, good fuel pump/regulator, probably mimic or swipe/upgrade the 60lb mototrons and translator plus setup that's on the GN. But things like a 9" converter, front mount, etc. won't happen on this car. It will be a street cruiser, but I'm not swapping this all over to have a turd. I want the most I can get out of it on pump gas and a reasonable budget. If it needs it I will buy it, but I'm not trying to waste money. I'm thinking if everything else looks like it should, I'll bowl port the heads and reassemble. Is this the right approach? Is the stock cam good enough here? Is the stock turbo going to be out of breath at pump gas boost levels? Am I asking too many questions? I'm ASSuming it's gonna look good inside, I have not seen inside it, but from what I HAVE seen, it's a true story. The driver's header is not cracked
Any input appreciated
bob
Car was driven 42k miles in the first 2 years of it's life, got totalled, engine went into a regal body, went to body shop for paint, never got finished. Guy I bought it from said he had it 12 years in climate controlled storage (bare metal on body), turned it over a few times but never heard it run. I'm yanking the motor to go into a hybrid project, likely a very heavy station wagon. Engine will be on a stand for a year or two regardless of what has to be done to it. Currently bone stock, down to the original plug wires, air filter, nonadjustable wastegate and the oil spewing passenger valve cover breather setup.
Question is, what do I do to it? I'm thinking a minimum of a timing chain, valve springs, rear main seal, and associated gaskets to get to them. Should I pull a bearing cap or two and look at the bearings? I have access to a high dollar borescope, but I'm thinknig I want to pull the heads anyway and do some head work to it. This will be a low boost 91/92 octane motor, probably won't even get an alcohol kit, at least not right away. The internet gods seem to say that porting the bowl area makes for huge gains on octane limited applications. It WILL get the typical bolt ons: 3" downpipe and good exhaust, good fuel pump/regulator, probably mimic or swipe/upgrade the 60lb mototrons and translator plus setup that's on the GN. But things like a 9" converter, front mount, etc. won't happen on this car. It will be a street cruiser, but I'm not swapping this all over to have a turd. I want the most I can get out of it on pump gas and a reasonable budget. If it needs it I will buy it, but I'm not trying to waste money. I'm thinking if everything else looks like it should, I'll bowl port the heads and reassemble. Is this the right approach? Is the stock cam good enough here? Is the stock turbo going to be out of breath at pump gas boost levels? Am I asking too many questions? I'm ASSuming it's gonna look good inside, I have not seen inside it, but from what I HAVE seen, it's a true story. The driver's header is not cracked
Any input appreciated
bob
