a few rust holes (quarter panel)

[turbo87regal]

is it worth doing this much work on these cars?

I say yes, but It depends on how much money you paid for the car and weather or not you can afford a low mileage turbo car with no rust for somewhere around $12k.

If you have or can get a body, that will be the easy way to fix it but that will probably have some rust that needs to be fixed too. So if you or your friends know how to fix it I would say fix what you have.

Dont feel bad. you should see the rust on the T-type I just got Its making me sick, the more I pick at it the biger it gets. I would switch the body in a heartbeat but all the donor cars I find either have a bunch of rust or they want like $4000.00+ for them and this is in south Florida (where they say there is no tust). I decided to fix what I have because I just want a nice driver and The show car is in the garage

 

[usetaboost]

I added it up one time and I think it came up to around 6k to have the car competely finished with minor upgrades, Nittos, and boston acoustic stereo system. That includes purchase price. It will have all bolt in braces too. The car isn't going to be totally correct and perfect cause I'm going to drive it as long as it's nice out, not stare at it

 

[BILL HAINES]

Rust

From What You Say,i Would Sandblast The Door Jambs,also The Under Floor Channel,and See What You Have,this Will Also Make Welding Alot Easier. As Far As The Door Striker Area,this Also Can Be Welded,kirban Rick Hunt Sell Rein Plates That Help The Problem Of The Qtr Cracks At The Striker Plate. I Think They Are About 20.00.. Also Sounds Like You Need Doors,to Weld The Bottom Jamb And Few Inches And Make Them Fit The Rockers Will Be Thim Consuming,i Would Find A Nice Set Of Used Doors,probably 200.00 Each In Most Areas..look At The Bright Side,at Least You Know What You Have When Your Finished..

 

[TWIN86GNS]

So should I continue with what I am doing? I am not to concerned with the hole in the quarter. My plan was to cut that rust out and just fiberglass it unless my friend has time to do a patch panel for me. Getting a patch off a car around here will be next to impossible beings for many years up until recent they salted roads, now I was told by a friend they use some sort of chemical that is non corrosive . The crack I am sure is from body flex, as all for corners of the roof have them. I don't know what to do about the hole in the door jam. Can I get away with soldering it after I remove the rust? I know I make the car worse than what it is but my father thinks I should use this shell to keep the car as original as possible. The shell is the only body part aside from the trunk that will stay original. I also took aa pic of teh bottom of the passenger door. I cannot tell if it is salvagable or not beings about 5 inches of the lip of the skin is rusted off. Can I bead blast the door and reweld the bottom if there is enough metal? At this point I am considering doing a half assed frame off (don't plan on removing drivetrain, it took me forever to get it perfect as possible), is it worth doing this much work on these cars?

Usetaboost,

This car sounds a fair bit worse then my car that I am having freshened up right now and it AIN'T cheap!!! I am not welding in patch panels or fibreglassing anything, I am replacing panels and hopefully all turns out well with this car.

 

[usetaboost]

Well I'm pretty much broke until I sell my other regal, so I got nothin but time. My only concern is replacing the support where the body bolts go through, I figure it has to be chiseled off, but how exactly does it get put back on? I don't see any tack welds along the brace

 

[tyson]

Rust hole in door hinge area.

Usetaboost Where in Iowa are you?
I live just outside of Cedar Rapids.
I have an 87 t top Gn. It has the same rust above the top door hinge area on both sides of my car.
I don't know if you realized this or not, but that area is a factory seem area. The a pillar outer sheetmetal overlaps the door hinge area there. I believe this rust usually comes from the inside out. In my case I had a rust hole by one of my t tops and one in the corner of my front window on the other side, both about the size of an eraser head that was letting water in and running down the inside of the a pillar. I would look for other rust holes in your window channel that may be letting water in. Not much use in fixing the other rust if you don't fix the source, right??. I thought about just welding in a small patch and blasting the whole area, seal and paint. (I haven't done anything yet), but I ended up getting a whole a pillar cut from another car. I am going to drill out the factory spot welds , cut about 3- 5 inches above the area and section in a small area from the doner pillar. You may be able to blast, patch and paint but I am not positive you will get all the rust. You can always try it and see, who know,if you get it water tight you may be alright.
The quarter looks like an easy fix. I would have someone fab up a piece and weld it in if possible.( These cars are rare I would put the time into fixing it right)My car looks worse than yours!!! Good luck,Tyson

 

[usetaboost]

Well I'm not done tearing into it yet, but you may be right. Just have to wait and see. Come to think of it I remember a rust hole on the bottom of the firewall by the fender and body mount. Just have to finish tearing it apart and see where I'm at.