My Monte is driven on the street and to the track..I've driven to BG and Atlanta to race..I have the H&R rear sway bar on now with stock un-boxed uppers..I have the UMI stock length lowers I'm going to install......I have M&H drag radials on the back also..My rear is not centered and I hope the adjustable uppers will help..I'm confused about the rod ends with no bushing that aren't for street use..I'm considering these eBay Motors: G-Body Upper Adjustable Control Arms (item 190088355153 end time Mar-11-07 21:05:48 PDT)
Adjustable upper rear control arm advice needed
- Thread starter GDNF2ET
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
- Messages
- 9,610
why would you say those are no good for street use , the ones to be careful of are the lowers with no bushings and no heim ends for two reasons
1- the bars with fixed ends and no rubber dont articulate so they tend to keep the suspension level with the body , but on turns tend to lift the axle on the inside of the turn
2- the non bushing bars are harder on the frame mounts and tend to loosen at the mounting bolts because there is no cushoin to absorb the blow , and once they wear in the bushing they clunk and rattle
the ones you show with stock type bushing in the axle ears and heim at other would be superior to the stock .
when you replace the worn rear axle ear bushing you might find the axle is closer to center , when you do them remove one arm stock set up both of the adjustables length to the same as the stock arm before installing so youll be where it supposed to be for stock . make adjustments after they are in noting how many turns you moved each from stock lenght so you can return if you dont like .
1- the bars with fixed ends and no rubber dont articulate so they tend to keep the suspension level with the body , but on turns tend to lift the axle on the inside of the turn
2- the non bushing bars are harder on the frame mounts and tend to loosen at the mounting bolts because there is no cushoin to absorb the blow , and once they wear in the bushing they clunk and rattle
the ones you show with stock type bushing in the axle ears and heim at other would be superior to the stock .
when you replace the worn rear axle ear bushing you might find the axle is closer to center , when you do them remove one arm stock set up both of the adjustables length to the same as the stock arm before installing so youll be where it supposed to be for stock . make adjustments after they are in noting how many turns you moved each from stock lenght so you can return if you dont like .
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,530
Have you..
measured the axle to frame rails, or the fender lip to axle, to determine the axle is not centered?
Could be just as likely, that the body is not centered on the frame, as the axle being out of whack...:smile:
measured the axle to frame rails, or the fender lip to axle, to determine the axle is not centered?
Could be just as likely, that the body is not centered on the frame, as the axle being out of whack...:smile:
Measuring from the inner frame rail to the top middle rear-end cover bolt center, its within 3/16....Putting a straight edge on the tire to the top wheel lip, on the driver side theres 1/2" gap, on the passenger side its into the lip an 1/8.. My car DID take a hit on the drivers side that bent my 7.5 axle shaft on that side years ago..It has the 8.5 in it now, but has the same control arms...Would I be better off to sell the UMI lowers and get some with the heims also ? Thanx for the help guys.I hope my car gets to where yawls are one day..
Similar threads
