Ok i cant keep the car running when you first start it it idles up like its supposed to but when it drops it wants to stall. Now it does it with the 85 ecm and the 87 ecm i did the 87 ecm ign coil module tt chip lt1 maf and translator well i just put that on because i was using the 85 maf and i was getting tc 33 on the scan master so i swaped it anybody have any ideas oh i replaced the o2 sensor before the turbo went does anybody thing that got ruined when turbo went with all that smoked that blew through it
AHHHH Pulling hair out
- Thread starter Jawbone
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
It wouldn't hurt to change it.
AF 13 L8 35 INT 160 BL 128 CLE 146 TPS.52 IAC 67 CC132 MAL Those are at about 1800 rpms because it wont stay at idle it drops low and engine jumps and shakes then shuts off . I took o2 out and cleaned it off with clean dry rag but here are my scanmaster results any help
84BuickGNYorkPA
Daily Driving Buick V-6 Turbo's 1979 - Present
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2005
I don't think cleaning the O2 sensor with a shop rag is going to do anything for the sensor.
I would just buy a new one, if it's not the O2 sensor, at least you will have a spare.
So if I'm reading your 1st post correctly it doing the same thing with the 85 and the 87 ECM set-up. (that eliminates the ecm, bad settings on the translator, check the settings on the translator anyway).
Random thoughts on this subject... one time I forgot to plug the MAF sensor back in and it acted like that...
It almost sounds fuel related..... fuel filter fresh? Age of the injectors? Age of the gas in the tank? Spark plugs changed lately? Cat converter clogged?
Chuck
I would just buy a new one, if it's not the O2 sensor, at least you will have a spare.
So if I'm reading your 1st post correctly it doing the same thing with the 85 and the 87 ECM set-up. (that eliminates the ecm, bad settings on the translator, check the settings on the translator anyway).
Random thoughts on this subject... one time I forgot to plug the MAF sensor back in and it acted like that...
It almost sounds fuel related..... fuel filter fresh? Age of the injectors? Age of the gas in the tank? Spark plugs changed lately? Cat converter clogged?
Chuck
It was doing it with the 85 maf to but the gas is about 8 months old and its 3/4 of a tank full .Yes the fuel pump sock filter and regulator are all a year old but the injectors are stock and i do have the hotwire kit also .AF 13 L8 35 INT 160 BL 128 CLE 146 TPS.52 IAC 67 CC132 MAL oo . do these readings look normal to you . I thought bl was supposed to be 00 also
84BuickGNYorkPA
Daily Driving Buick V-6 Turbo's 1979 - Present
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2005
There is a fuel filter on the car at the front of the motor, on the 84/85's. The injectors being 27yrs old aren't helping matters, you may want to think about pulling them and having them professionally cleaned or replace them with new ones, bigger also if your not keeping the car stockish.
Those number values are referenced from a car warmed up in park idling. A little difficult to tell what's going on because your car won't idle.
Here is a reference for the scanmaster readings, http://turbotweak.com/scanmasterinstructions.pdf
I would print this out and keep it in the car.
Your INT (short term fuel trim) shows the car is trying to add a bunch of fuel. If it was at 128 it wouldn't be adding or subtracting fuel.
This makes me wonder if the car is getting fuel at idle, which the IAC (idle air control) valve does. The next time your under the hood pull the plugs and see if they are wet or not, after the car stalls.
What does the exhaust look like when it's running? Can you have someone video tape what's going on while you have the car running and post it up on youtube, maybe that would help us, help you.
Chuck
Those number values are referenced from a car warmed up in park idling. A little difficult to tell what's going on because your car won't idle.
Here is a reference for the scanmaster readings, http://turbotweak.com/scanmasterinstructions.pdf
I would print this out and keep it in the car.
Your INT (short term fuel trim) shows the car is trying to add a bunch of fuel. If it was at 128 it wouldn't be adding or subtracting fuel.
This makes me wonder if the car is getting fuel at idle, which the IAC (idle air control) valve does. The next time your under the hood pull the plugs and see if they are wet or not, after the car stalls.
What does the exhaust look like when it's running? Can you have someone video tape what's going on while you have the car running and post it up on youtube, maybe that would help us, help you.
Chuck
84BuickGNYorkPA
Daily Driving Buick V-6 Turbo's 1979 - Present
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2005
standupjskiguy
Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2009
The IAC is a solenoid that opens and closes to allow air to enter to adjust idle. If your was bad it wouldn't open to allow 1800 rpm and then close down and kill the engine. It opens and closes. If it didn't open the engine wouldn't start. If it didn't close the engine would stay at a high idle rpm.
You have some kind of lean condition cause by either a vacuum leak or something not allowing fuel at idle.
Ox sensor comes in to play at full operating temp so it's not that. Ditto on a clogged fuel filter and cat, if it were those it wouldn't run up to 1800 RPM and then not idle. Fuel injectors don't all go bad at once and not allow idle. They would go bad one at a time and cause rough idle. Most of your sensors come into play after warm up so I don't think the problem will be found there. One sensor that may be bad might be the engine temperature sensor. It tells the computer how cold the engine is. A cold engine needs more fuel to idle than a warm engine. I change those sensors because they are cheap but I can't say I ever saw one fail. Fuel unless left in an open container should be good for a couple years. I have last falls gas in my boats and pwc the next spring and never had a problem.
Get some starting fluid and when the engine starts to die, spray some into the throttle body and see if it improves the idle and keeps it from dying. If it does, it confirm that you are too lean. You may have to inspect all the vacuum lines, especially the large ones for a leak. The pvc line is one that could cause this. These old hoses can split open as they rot form years of heat and fumes.
If you can have somebody keep the engine running, you can feel and listen for vacuum leaks.
Good luck.
You have some kind of lean condition cause by either a vacuum leak or something not allowing fuel at idle.
Ox sensor comes in to play at full operating temp so it's not that. Ditto on a clogged fuel filter and cat, if it were those it wouldn't run up to 1800 RPM and then not idle. Fuel injectors don't all go bad at once and not allow idle. They would go bad one at a time and cause rough idle. Most of your sensors come into play after warm up so I don't think the problem will be found there. One sensor that may be bad might be the engine temperature sensor. It tells the computer how cold the engine is. A cold engine needs more fuel to idle than a warm engine. I change those sensors because they are cheap but I can't say I ever saw one fail. Fuel unless left in an open container should be good for a couple years. I have last falls gas in my boats and pwc the next spring and never had a problem.
Get some starting fluid and when the engine starts to die, spray some into the throttle body and see if it improves the idle and keeps it from dying. If it does, it confirm that you are too lean. You may have to inspect all the vacuum lines, especially the large ones for a leak. The pvc line is one that could cause this. These old hoses can split open as they rot form years of heat and fumes.
If you can have somebody keep the engine running, you can feel and listen for vacuum leaks.
Good luck.
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