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Alternator No Longer Charging - Bug in Dash?
- Thread starter Terbro
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VtheGNMan
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If you wanted to hard wire what this fix harness does, how would you do it?
I've cleaned up my harness and have gotten rid of this Wastegate plug.
I've cleaned up my harness and have gotten rid of this Wastegate plug.
l recall a low voltage/Amp/resistance signal from the dash bulb circuit excites the alternator. The same signal is on 1 of the pins for the boost controller.
That fix harness went from the bc to the alt.
I don't have my old wiring diagram handy as it is packed as I moved to Ephrata, Pa.
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That fix harness went from the bc to the alt.
I don't have my old wiring diagram handy as it is packed as I moved to Ephrata, Pa.
Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk
I haven't heard from him so it's yours. PayPal email is Rudydog33@att.net . Put your name and address in the comments. Thanks!
Thank you...probably would've taken you up on the offer, had I seen your post before just now. I ordered one from Casper's first thing this morning.
Tried checking the forum last night, but the website was offline. I seem to remember that happening off and on in the past. But thank you for the offer...
I'm sure I've got connection problems at that connecter behind the gauge cluster. My mechanic had good intentions, but the only result was causing the "low fuel" light to stay on constantly now. No good...
I ordered the Field Harness Fix from Casper's. My mechanic bought a new bulb and installed, but...still no go.
I ordered the Field Harness Fix from Casper's. My mechanic bought a new bulb and installed, but...still no go.
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
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I've also seen bad connections at the alternator plug and broken wire inside the plug. Ohm the circuit from the alternator plug back to the dash connector.
Now I'm frustrated. Was happy to receive the FieldFix Harness from Casper's today, being that it only took one day shipping. Had kept the TR on the trickle charger overnight, for a nice fresh start. Instructions are straightforward. Plug in harness into alt, and factory alt plug into harness on that end. And plug in boost solenoid connector to harness. First problem: The boost solenoid connector didn't want to go all the way in, when plugged in "properly", meaning with the clip sides on the same side. Since it didn't seem to fit right, I tried it the opposite way, and it fit much better. But the instructions even say that it's properly connected when the pink/black (though mine looks more peach/black stripe) wire (on the boost solenoid) lines up with the brown wire on the harness.
But...while the instructions say it must be plugged all the way in, I try it anyway. Long story short here - I start the car, it's not charging, which leads to two calls with John at Tech Support at Casper's. He gives me some tips to try an determine whether the metal contacts inside the barrels of the boost solenoid are centered and I did try readjusting them, but they looked pretty good. I just didn't understand why it wouldn't slide all the way in (left about a millimeter), and just didn't seem right compared to connecting it the wrong way...whereby it would fit all the way in. So John told me that the alternative was to do a direct-connect of the wire, the pink/black to the brown of the harness. He said the pink wire on the harness wasn't necessary (?).
So, after spending $53 on the harness, I'm cutting the connector off, just wanting my car to charge again. I do that, cut the solenoid wire, attach the two, and...still no charge (have Scanmaster).
John also mentioned that maybe my battery cables were bad, or that the alternator wasn't charging. So, I check the battery cables. The ground cable, going straight to the passenger head looks fine (newer). I jack up the car, and check the positive to the starter, and it looks fine. The car starts fine anyway, so I'm thinking that can't be it. Note: I only see one wire going to the starter. I have an analog voltmeter, so I check the alternator while the car is running, and at the harness connector, one of the two inside contacts reads voltage (6V, maybe?), and the other pegs high (at 9V scale). So I'm thinking the alternator is producing a charge.
So...that's where I'm at: Frustrated, and not exactly knowing what to do next.
But...while the instructions say it must be plugged all the way in, I try it anyway. Long story short here - I start the car, it's not charging, which leads to two calls with John at Tech Support at Casper's. He gives me some tips to try an determine whether the metal contacts inside the barrels of the boost solenoid are centered and I did try readjusting them, but they looked pretty good. I just didn't understand why it wouldn't slide all the way in (left about a millimeter), and just didn't seem right compared to connecting it the wrong way...whereby it would fit all the way in. So John told me that the alternative was to do a direct-connect of the wire, the pink/black to the brown of the harness. He said the pink wire on the harness wasn't necessary (?).
So, after spending $53 on the harness, I'm cutting the connector off, just wanting my car to charge again. I do that, cut the solenoid wire, attach the two, and...still no charge (have Scanmaster).
John also mentioned that maybe my battery cables were bad, or that the alternator wasn't charging. So, I check the battery cables. The ground cable, going straight to the passenger head looks fine (newer). I jack up the car, and check the positive to the starter, and it looks fine. The car starts fine anyway, so I'm thinking that can't be it. Note: I only see one wire going to the starter. I have an analog voltmeter, so I check the alternator while the car is running, and at the harness connector, one of the two inside contacts reads voltage (6V, maybe?), and the other pegs high (at 9V scale). So I'm thinking the alternator is producing a charge.
So...that's where I'm at: Frustrated, and not exactly knowing what to do next.
No chance (unless finances get dire). This thing's running phenomenal...mega power now with the new Champion Irons, roller cam and rockers (& 20 psi). It's a minor problem. I'm only frustrated because I know it's a relatively minor problem...whatever it is.
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Terry, once you get past this hiccup you plan on any Trak time?
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GNONYX
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It's a long shot, but you might want to remove the dash cluster and see if any of the finger brass contacts are bend, and if not use a pencil eraser to clean all contacts
Well, here's the history. All was fine before the speedo cable change. I could let it sit for weeks and it would start right up. And I drove it 25 minutes to my mechanic's house, no problem. Then, immediately after we changed the cable, we started it, and as it was warming up, we noticed it was dying after running for about 2-3 minutes. And I just had a hunch, that it seemed like the battery (draining) was the culprit. But again, it started normally at first. So I checked the Scanmaster, and sure enough, no charge.
So your advice is good. I just can't help but think that it originated from us messing up either wires (by cramming the speedo cable through the firewall, along with the others going through it), or the gauge cluster contacts. I checked the wires coming in and out of the firewall, and nothing stuck out as disconnected. Of course it's a cluster f**k of wires beneath the radio, but they all look intact.
The only thing I'm wondering at the moment, is what's happening with the boost solenoid wire...i.e., where does it go? ECM? Could it be bad? I checked the alternator again, and it's pegging offscale high. The terminal wire connection going to the battery looks fine.
It's Victor, right? Sorry, I just noticed you sent me a PM a few months ago. I never got an email notification, and hadn't logged on until a couple days ago. Thanks for checking in though!
To answer your question...yes! As I mentioned, it running incredible. Better than I expected with the new mods. And I'm only at about 19-20 psi (E85), so there's more. So you bet...let's make plans to meet at the track. I only have the stock radiator fan, but fortunately, I now own a flatbed tow truck, so if the weather is too hot, I'll just tow the bitch to the track!
Have you been to the CO Outlaws races at PPIR? I raced there last year before the mods, on 14 psi (with a wiped cam), and beat my friend's 2015 Camaro with 426 hp 3-4x by about 1-2 car lengths.
The alternator should not be pegging, check the charging system. When my Battery lamp, alternator and charging system failed through the years the car would run fine until the battery got below 11 v and then sputter and stall about 35 seconds later.
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Well, we thought that was the culprit...my mechanic clean and did all kinds of work to try and improve the contacts at the back of the gauge cluster, as well as replacing the bulb. The only result was having the Low Fuel light stay on now. But Casper's FieldFix harness is supposed to eliminate any contact issues (so I'm told), which is why I got it.
