alternator replacement!

[Jay J]

1/2 a volt is actaully pretty awesome. I'm about to pull my entire dash out to do some maintenance/upgrades to the HVAC system, install a pretty indepth car alarm with remote start, and so some mods to the wiring.....

I've got a mental image for a "whole car hotwire kit" that will give full voltage to EVERYTHING, take the load off the ign switch, and make the car more electrically stable. With any luck I can write a ''how to'' that can be installed cleanly without having to take off more than the underdash panel.

I really have a feeling that getting the entire car on the same voltage level will help. I know or a fact it can't hurt.

That sounds like a great project--I will look forward to seeing your "how to" on that, Earl.

 

[earlbrown]

Right now I'm thinking it'll take about $10 or $20 in parts. If it'll ever drop below 90F and stop freaking raining, I'll get on it.

 

[we4Mateo]

I use the powermaster as well with a externally variable regulator. I had to get an Optima battery because I was gassing out a Delco battery. The Delco took the abuse but deteriorated a few things in the process. I have extra grounds and never lose more than .5V to any component in the car as tested from alt to: fuel pump before and after relay, CCCI hotwire, battery, starter, etc. A great electrical system is the foundation of the durability and reliability of my car. I show 14.2V to 14.8V on the SM at any time. The Optima battery is rated to 15V and I push that limit, but the car loves it! Especially with two fuel systems, consistent voltage is key. SM shows 14.2V when very hot with a/c, high beams, and stereo on. Everyone preaches fuel system, and that is important, but electrical allows fuel system to do its job and do it efficiently.

 

[turbojoe1]

Good stuff, and that's another reason why I do "The Big 3 upgrade" on all my cars.


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[RmvBfrFlght]

One of the issues with the electrical system in these cars is how the vehicle voltage is 'sensed' by the alternator. It is done within the alternator, which leaves room for voltage drops between it and the battery, then between the battery and the main power feeds into the car. I recently changed this...

I used either the main power feed to the PowerMaster (no longer there), or the fan delay relay feed (also no longer there). Both of these originate at the starter solenoid and are heavy gauge wires. I don't recall which feed I used, which is why I said either.

Anyway, that feed is now wired to the S terminal on the alternator. It is the large end terminal in the connector. This increased the system voltage as seen by the ECM by .4 to .5 volts. This increase in voltage is maintained even while in boost and the RPM is climbing.

Can go further and wire the F terminal of the alternator connector to an IGN+ switched feed. Such as from the EGR solenoid power (PNK/BLK). This will have the alternator still charging if the dash light assembly (that mess) fails.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[davelostmissing]

Anyway, that feed is now wired to the S terminal on the alternator. It is the large end terminal in the connector. This increased the system voltage as seen by the ECM by .4 to .5 volts. This increase in voltage is maintained even while in boost and the RPM is climbing.
RemoveBeforeFlight

Brilliant! - using the alternator as actually designed before the bean counters interfered.

 

[Dennis Kirban]

Few thoughts to ponder on the alternators in the 1986-1987 Turbo Regals.

We sel lboth 120 amp and 200 amp rebuilt both rebuilt locally and tested by one individual and look factory new. Both sell equally as well to our customers.

Its hard to explain but the pulley on our alternators is quite unique so much so I had to get it made as the correct diameter pulley is not available from GM etc.
That is part of the key to having charging system working correctly and no belt slippage.

You got to watch some typical rebuilt ones because if the pulley is not a dead on match to your original pulley it could spell issues. We also offer getting yours rebuilt so the number match your built ate. By rebuilt I mean returned to like factory new with the correct cad plating etc.

This is one part its best not to skimp on....

denniskirban@yahoo.com

by the way our 200 amp has been tested by Richard Clark before I offered them to be certain my buddy was hitting the 200 amp level.

 

[buickGN3:16]

Mateo do u have a part # for that very same alternator with the ext regulator & which optima battery did u go with?

 

[buickGN3:16]

Volt meter shows 14.7 at the back of the alt, as the scanmaster shows between 13.6 & 14.2.. Losing volts somewhere guys

 

[bison]

Volt meter shows 14.7 at the back of the alt, as the scanmaster shows between 13.6 & 14.2.. Losing volts somewhere guys

Did you hotwire the ECM?


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[earlbrown]

Volt meter shows 14.7 at the back of the alt, as the scanmaster shows between 13.6 & 14.2.. Losing volts somewhere guys

Probe in and out on the ignition switch, you'll most likely find your voltage drop.

 

[we4Mateo]

Mateo do u have a part # for that very same alternator with the ext regulator & which optima battery did u go with?

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/gm1.html

I ended up getting a yellow top. Nice having top posts too. I got a marine lug and ran my hotwires off of that and made the load a little less on the side post bolt.

 

[buickGN3:16]

no i havent done that bison, how is that done anyway? Earl what do u mean " probe in & out of the ign switch?

 

[buickGN3:16]

Thanks for the info Mateo im gonna check into that combo.

 

[earlbrown]

Out a meter on the hot wire going into the ignition switch, and then probe the wire coming out of it. that will tell you if the switch is losing it, the bulkhead, or both.