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Aluminum Drive shaft choices

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Gnx6

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2003
Messages
554
I wanted to get rid of the ugly rusty terd stick under my car. (Driveshaft) Was thinking of aluminum since it won't rust. Any of these a good choice? My current combo is below. Car is probably 420 ish at the wheels currently? I may be going roller cam as I think mine may be going flat. (more power). Is aluminum a good choice or stick with steel that it coated?

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c49_grand_national.html
 
I wanted to get rid of the ugly rusty terd stick under my car. (Driveshaft) Was thinking of aluminum since it won't rust. Any of these a good choice? My current combo is below. Car is probably 420 ish at the wheels currently? I may be going roller cam as I think mine may be going flat. (more power). Is aluminum a good choice or stick with steel that it coated?

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c49_grand_national.html

Good choice but outside of how it looks it is a really good safety upgrade. A broken driveshaft will open your floor pan up like a tin can and can cause you to wreck the car. The alum shafts are plenty strong and a larger diameter at 3.5". The DOM or CM shafts are 3". The factory one is 2.75"

I am getting ready to order one my self for my T-type. Im going with the alum with 1350 U-joints and the 1350 pinion yoke item #9669965, $69.

Summit has an Inland Empire alum shaft for the GN with 1310 U-joints for $423. Not worth the savings IMO as the U-joint is likely what'll break if you have a failure.
 
I wanted to get rid of the ugly rusty terd stick under my car. (Driveshaft) Was thinking of aluminum since it won't rust. Any of these a good choice? My current combo is below. Car is probably 420 ish at the wheels currently? I may be going roller cam as I think mine may be going flat. (more power). Is aluminum a good choice or stick with steel that it coated?

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c49_grand_national.html

To be honest, I wouldn't put an aluminum drive shaft on a TB. Go with one of the steel drive shafts that is appropriate for the power level. I have a Denny's drive shaft on another vehicle and it fit perfect and is well balanced.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
My friends has the inland one also but got it from jegs and his car runs 10's. No probs

Im getting one also but havent decided which to get but dennys looks good, especially the 1350 series.

here is the Jegs link
Inland Empire ALUGN
 
I've got the Denny's 1350 3.5" Nitrous ready with the 1350 billet yokes, great piece, good for 2000 HP. Love it, smooth as silk, + it'll NEVER break.
 
If you do go aluminum on a driver everythime you shift into R or D it's gonna clunk like a kid smacking a rock on an aluminum flagpole. :eek::p

I've gotten used to it on the daily driver but the hotty bank teller hasn't. :biggrin:

It's really tinny sounding, see the thread on driveline clunk it becomes a clank with an aluminum shaft. :rolleyes:
 
If you do go aluminum on a driver everythime you shift into R or D it's gonna clunk like a kid smacking a rock on an aluminum flagpole. :eek::p

I've gotten used to it on the daily driver but the hotty bank teller hasn't. :biggrin:

It's really tinny sounding, see the thread on driveline clunk it becomes a clank with an aluminum shaft. :rolleyes:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/at...60-aluminum-driveshaft-where-buy-ebay-059.jpg


I have the steel DYNOTECH and mine still clanggg!!! Clunk!!! I thought it was either the rearend gears backlash problem Or too much pressure that the tranny builds. It doesn't do it when the tranny is not warmed up just get in and go, but once it's warmed up clunk clang. I have to mash the foot brakes really hard to soften it a bit. But still does it only on the transfer of P to D or R. I'm use to it but dont like the sound but LOVE the performance.
 
I got mine out of a S-10 ZR2. Its 4.0 inch in dia. HUGE... It was an 1/2 inch shorter then my stock steel plain-jane cutlass driveshaft. Only issue is I have the stock worn out rear suspension and worn out body bushings. And under a heavy bump. The driveshaft is hit the bottom of the car. But I paid $40 for the driveshaft.

Hear is a write-up I did. With more details and pics
Aluminum Drive-Shaft in G-body installed!!!! - OldsPower.com
 
Another vote for Denny's Nitrous Ready package. I got the 3.5" with Chrome Moly 1350 yokes. Probably overkill but the peace of mind is worth it to me.
 
Just had a Kirban's Aluminum drive shaft installed, seems like all the sounds are magnified, from the clunk of putting it in gear and a slight whistle noise while in gear. Local tranny shop is saying that the pinion bearing is going out, but when the stock drive shaft is in, it's quiet.
Also going along at about 30 mph nice and easy and drop the trans in neutral and the sound goes quiet, shut the car down at 30 mph and it quiet... just installed the non-lock tranny mod and non lock converter from Dusty at the same time..... someone tell me this is normal...

Chuck
 
Maybe it's too hollow. Mine is hollow but strong I suppose. Here's what I found out. I was experimenting while under the car. I took a small hammer or screwdriver handle and tapped the driveshaft while it was installed. CLANG!!!! I did the same tap in the same location with my opposite hand ON the drive shaft and it muffled the clang 10 fold. I installed a 3.5" rubber dog chew (lol all i could find) and slipped it over the back end of the drive shaft put it in drove and the clang went away.

However once I got into it (throttle) that rubber ring messed up the dynamics and actually hit the undercarriage of the car,,,,,, had to remove it. But I do now know that it's the dynamics of it I suppose. I understand or atleast I seem to think that mine is normal and not hurting anything, other than my ears and spooking some people walking in the parking lot. I'm still trying to find away to quiet it when I can and won't give up.
 
Just saw this thread.....few points I like to make.

For a fairly stock turbo regal an aluminum driveshaft has no down sides....not only will it not rust but most companies balance them far superior to what GM did orignally. example, the one we carry and G Body offers are balanced within the weight of a single postage stamp.

As it has been noted your stock driveshaft is just under 3 inches in diameter. Undoubtedly it has held up quite well for 25 plus years alhtough rusty now in appearance. Most if not all companies will only make a aluminum dirveshaft that is 3 1/2 inches in diameter from what I understand. So basically it is a 1/2 wider or 1/4 all around. A direct bolt in. No clearance issues except possibly with some aftermarket driveshaft loops are a badly installed Y pipe!

Most including our source uses alcoa 6061 aluminum grade material. The u joints on ours is #1330 Spicer series. The company we use is USA MADE and been making driveshafts since 1982. In al that time they never ever had one break. Their big market is Mustangs and have supported 1,000 hp with this combination. However, to be safe in our applications 700 to 750 hp this set up will handle providing the angle between your transmission and rear does not cause the joints to bind. In other words fairly straight distance.

Another plus is you save about 3 lbs in weight. Even ATR back in the day sold aluminum driveshafts. Not big sellers way back when as the cars were fairly new. Now its a nice upgrade in not only weight savings but in appearance.

The ones we sell are a direct bolt in. Nothing else to buy. Our part number is #7415. As to the post that said he developed a slight whine its unlikely it came from the driveshaft. Unless something is binding, or rubbing a exhaust pipe or driveshaft loop, it could be transferring a gear noise from the rear. With the new aluminum shafts balanced to closer specs than what GM did it may be transferring the whine from the rear end gears.

Again I am guessing of course. Aluminum driveshafts is nothing new. Several choices exist for aluminum driveshafts as a turbo owner I would hope you would choose one that supports the Turbo Buick community.

So in quick review the aluminum driveshaft we market will support 700-750 hp its 100% complete saves 3 lbs, made in the USA, looks better, (won't rust) and balanced within the weight of a postage stamp. Those of you that have a scale that can pinpoint the weight of a postage stamp will be able to determine that its pretty darn good. Plus the welds are far superior to what GM did originally.

I just had one installed in my turbo-t. Anytime you can shed weight is a good thing. Ask any new Camaro owner!

denniskirban@yahoo.com
 
I just got back from Cecil County Dragway, about a 100 mile round trip, kept Kirban's drive shaft on the car. Ran the car 3 times on the 1/4 mile track, figure if something is going to break it would have done it then.... happy to report no surprises....

Chuck
 
Glad it didn't break....assuming your under 700-750 hp at rear wheels it should not ever be a problem. Like I said source we used been building them since 1982 and not one has been broken. They have some running in Mustangs that pump out 1,000 hp....


I am sure you saw the quality of the new driveshaft compared to your stock one....world of differnce just in welds and better
balance.

Again its not like this company just started to make driveshafts last week.....are market plan is for the fairly stock application.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

This same company gets $800 for the aluminum driveshaft for the new Camaros..........
 
I have been told that AL driveshafts are not a good choice if you launch hard off a trans brake. At launch, the driveshaft goes from being completely unloaded to very heavily loaded almost instantly, which puts a helk of a shock on it. Aluminum, supposedly, is not as capable of handling those shock loads (compared to steel). The engineer in me seems to agree with that, but I'd be interested in hearing other's opinions on this...

Mike
Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible using Turbo Buick
 
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