Aluminum proportioning valve

[Red Regal T]

I have to buy a new proportioning valve because I'm changing over to rear disc brakes. I can get a brass one on EBAY for about $65-$70 shipped, but I can also purchase an identical aluminum one for $45 shipped. I don't see a downside with going to aluminum, so I figured I'd try it. Anyone think of a problem? They also offer a zinc plated number for $50 shipped. I figure that's cast iron.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-D...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[davelostmissing]

Aluminum is less noble I believe. Will the Aluminum proportioning valve become the sacrificial anode? Do we have a metalurgist here?

 

[Red Regal T]

G-body Master cylinders are all made from Aluminum. We're only talking a proportioning valve so I think a solid block of aluminum is more than adequate. Wood, I'd have a problem with.

 

[salvageV6]

I'd try this first, I didn't use a new prop. valve with my new Baer rear disk brakes. They seem to work just fine with good balance.

If you do install an adjustable valve you may need to do this step.

 

[charlief1]

Get the brass one Red. It will hold up much longer than the aluminum one. You live in Fla and I don't know how close to the beach you are but salt mist will eat the aluminum much faster.

 

[Junior Samples]

Get the brass one Red. It will hold up much longer than the aluminum one. You live in Fla and I don't know how close to the beach you are but salt mist will eat the aluminum much faster.

I been to his house, he lives in the backwoods wooley swamp where the legend of wild eye willy was born

 

[Red Regal T]

I been to his house, he lives in the backwoods wooley swamp where the legend of wild eye willy was born

:biggrin:

I'd try this first, I didn't use a new prop. valve with my new Baer rear disk brakes. They seem to work just fine with good balance.

Thanks for this Alan. I just modified an extra valve I have and I'll try it first. Haven't started the conversion yet. Don't have all the parts.

Get the brass one Red. It will hold up much longer than the aluminum one. You live in Fla and I don't know how close to the beach you are but salt mist will eat the aluminum much faster.

With the information supplied, I probably won't have to buy one, at least right now. The valve on my car is a cast iron unit as is my extra. I have some time so I'm going to try to find a brass unit in the boneyard, do the suggested modification, and try it. Thanks for your input, Charlie.

 

[charlief1]

No problem Red. I had a feeling you didn't think about a corrosion issue. Tell us how it works out.

 

[Phatman]

With the information supplied, I probably won't have to buy one, at least right now. The valve on my car is a cast iron unit as is my extra. I have some time so I'm going to try to find a brass unit in the boneyard, do the suggested modification, and try it. Thanks for your input, Charlie.

Good luck finding one at the yard John...
Heck for that matter finding a G body is a feat in itself today as I'm sure you know.

 

[Red Regal T]

Hi Mike ... yeah, I know they're getting scarce but there's still a few. Don't know about finding a brass valve, but I'll give it a try.

 

[salvageV6]

Hey John, you know how much rust my car has including the outside of the iron valve.

After taking it apart to remove the residual pressure stuff per Baers instructions I decided to keep it iron, inside was fine and I couldn't bring myself to gut a NOS brass valve.

You'll probably be just fine with the iron one.

 

[Nick Micale]

I'd try this first, I didn't use a new prop. valve with my new Baer rear disk brakes. They seem to work just fine with good balance...........

We have done a few rear disk brake conversions, and eliminating the prop valve works fine as well.

 

[Red Regal T]

Hey John, you know how much rust my car has including the outside of the iron valve.

After taking it apart to remove the residual pressure stuff per Baers instructions I decided to keep it iron, inside was fine and I couldn't bring myself to gut a NOS brass valve.

You'll probably be just fine with the iron one.

Yeah I think so. I probably won't be able to find a brass one anyway.

And NICK, thanks for that, but it's easier to just bolt all the brake lines ends back into the prop valve. That's why I didn't even consider an adjustable unit as recommended by some. I think I'm going to get through this (prop valve) without spending any money. :biggrin:

 

[Nick Micale]

..........And NICK, thanks for that, but it's easier to just bolt all the brake lines ends back into the prop valve. ......... :biggrin:

That is the easiest way to do it, or just get a union to join the lines.

Usually we also replace the stock lines under the hood that have the coils, as they are a pain to deal with, especially on a race car.