I was told by other members on here that it was exactly the same, even has the boss for the turbo drain in the front of the block that just needs to be drilled and tapped..
Always a good idea to Magnaflux the block.......
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HelloBozos
A Bozo in Buick
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Buicks leak oil,an break things alot, but it'll still get you home ...(useualy)... 8^)
m233roller
Banned
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gnfanatic,
I don't know were you got your information but the n/a 109 block is NOT any different than the 109 turbo blocks. Only thing is you have to drill and tap the front for the turbo oil return line.
I don't know were you got your information but the n/a 109 block is NOT any different than the 109 turbo blocks. Only thing is you have to drill and tap the front for the turbo oil return line.
lol...I should have wrote "forged stroker engine." Most of the parts came from supporting vendors of this board. Dave need a great job on building the engine.
Ok. so is this a definitive answer to this question?? This is another one of those 10 guys say this, 10 guys say that..... I'm looking for something so I can go rip one of the 3 people who've fucked me so far a new asshole...I know it probably won't get me any money back, but I'll be able to embarass them and call bullshit on bullshit and get it off my mind.
750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
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The blocks are all the same other than the turbo application blocks having a hole for the oil drain back tube. There is no magic "Turbo" block. If it has the same casting # it's the same block.
Look here: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/blocks/blockguide.html
Neal
Look here: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/blocks/blockguide.html
Neal
Thanks...that's what i'm looking for.
Wrong. The block doesn't have any specification before it was used in either application. I have cracked blocks and mains 4 times in the last 15 years. Everytime it was with a stock crank. Once it was girdled. The longest lasting one I have was an NA 109 that has seen at least 20 135+ passes and hundreds upon hundreds of hits on the street including N2O on top of an 800+hp tune. When in search of a good block I just pull the center caps and look for metal transfer beteeen the surfaces. If I see transfer I know the block has seen very high hp and or a lot of detonation and I make my decision very quickly.
When in search of a good block I just pull the center caps and look for metal transfer beteeen the surfaces. If I see transfer I know the block has seen very high hp and or a lot of detonation and I make my decision very quickly.
Please elaborate, I'm not a builder but have heard the terminology before and am interested...
Please elaborate, I'm not a builder but have heard the terminology before and am interested...
750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
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You'll see evidence of fretting between the main registers and the caps themselves. This is due to the caps moving around. There will be metal transfer from the caps to the block and vice versa.
Neal
Neal
BEATAV8
The Engine Whisperer
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I've seen plenty of fretting on higher power motors that still did not have any cracks. The fretting indicates the caps are moving which is going to happen with high power even if it's clean, or it could happen at lower power levels with detonation.
Yup
If you look at any of the blocks back to about 1982 the mains all look the same. If you have a production block it looks that way.
larrym
West Coast Newfy
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Does using studs help or make this problem more pronounced?
I just picked up a a low mileage NA motor and TH350 motor was running with about 80,oo0 miles on it.
I was planning on billiet center caps thats why i aske.
I just picked up a a low mileage NA motor and TH350 motor was running with about 80,oo0 miles on it.
I was planning on billiet center caps thats why i aske.
750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
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Using studs should help but won't eliminate the problem in a high H.P. application. Studs give greater clamping force than bolts which will reduce main cap movement. Billet caps will remove the possibility of breaking a main cap but they will walk also. Running an internally balanaced steel crankshaft helps a lot.
Neal
turbodave231
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FYI,
Studs engage more of the threaded hole in the block than a bolt. A bolt, by design can never go all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole. If it does, there would be no clamp load at all. Proper stud installation includes taking a bottoming tap and cutting/finishing threads all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole. The stud is then threaded in as far as it will go.
My Thoughts: A stud may provide some additional protection against this type of damage because it pulls on more material in the block. I have a friend who is a fastener engineer. I'll ask him for his opinion.
I think Neal is right on target with his comments: Steel crankshafts will flex much less and therefore the crankshaft will not load the 2 center caps.
Dave
Studs engage more of the threaded hole in the block than a bolt. A bolt, by design can never go all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole. If it does, there would be no clamp load at all. Proper stud installation includes taking a bottoming tap and cutting/finishing threads all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole. The stud is then threaded in as far as it will go.
My Thoughts: A stud may provide some additional protection against this type of damage because it pulls on more material in the block. I have a friend who is a fastener engineer. I'll ask him for his opinion.
I think Neal is right on target with his comments: Steel crankshafts will flex much less and therefore the crankshaft will not load the 2 center caps.
Dave
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