AN fuel lines

[DailyDrifter]

I want to connect the lines from the rail to the lines at the frame. Does anyone know what Fittings and what size line to use? Thanks

 

[87we410877]

I want to connect the lines from the rail to the lines at the frame. Does anyone know what Fittings and what size line to use? Thanks

Why? Your biggest line is only as big as the smallest connection. If you just connect an AN line to the same size stock line, its the same as running a stock line unless it sjust for looks and in that case ide just go to pep boys and pick up the fake AN hose to go over the stock one. You will not find a fitting to fit the stock line on the frame by the PS pump. Its a double flare NPT fitting and will not work with an AN fitting. You have to find an NPT female (i think it was 3/8") to an AN#(whatever your putting on) for the line at the frame. Then on the fuel rail, It is also a flared fitting that you'll need to either cut off and weld in an AN fitting or find a similar NPT to AN connection. HTH.

 

[gnxtc2]

Why? Your biggest line is only as big as the smallest connection. If you just connect an AN line to the same size stock line, its the same as running a stock line unless it sjust for looks and in that case ide just go to pep boys and pick up the fake AN hose to go over the stock one. You will not find a fitting to fit the stock line on the frame by the PS pump. Its a double flare NPT fitting and will not work with an AN fitting. You have to find an NPT female (i think it was 3/8") to an AN#(whatever your putting on) for the line at the frame. Then on the fuel rail, It is also a flared fitting that you'll need to either cut off and weld in an AN fitting or find a similar NPT to AN connection. HTH.

There are fittings available for this. The fittings are known as Saginaw/Power Steering fittings

All part numbers are Earl's

Fuel Rail
-Feed: 16mmx1.50 (male to -6AN) 991955ERL
-Regulator: 14mmx1.50 (male to -6AN) 991954ERL

Frame
-Feed: 16mmx1.50 (female to -6AN) 9894DBJERL
-Return: Custom-The threads are 10mmx1.25. I ordered a male steel weld -6AN bung (967106ERL) and ordered the female section of the return line from Classic Tube. You could also cut the end off the return hose flush. I then welded the two pieces together.

I used -6AN. Getting the hose end on the bottom of the regulator is going to be tight if you have the aluminum adjustable fuel reg that is sold by Kirban. The regulator is longer.

The hose ends that I used
Fuel rail
-Feed 45*
-Return 90* close radius

Frame
-Feed and return 120*

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[87we410877]

There are fittings available for this. The fittings are known as Saginaw/Power Steering fittings

All part numbers are Earl's

Fuel Rail
-Feed: 16mmx1.50 (male to -6AN) 991955ERL
-Regulator: 14mmx1.50 (male to -6AN) 991954ERL

Frame
-Feed: 16mmx1.50 (female to -6AN) 9894DBJERL
-Return: Custom-The threads are 10mmx1.25. I ordered a male steel weld -6AN bung (967106ERL) and ordered the female section of the return line from Classic Tube. You could also cut the end off the return hose flush. I then welded the two pieces together.

I used -6AN. Getting the hose end on the bottom of the regulator is going to be tight if you have the aluminum adjustable fuel reg that is sold by Kirban. The regulator is longer.

The hose ends that I used
Fuel rail
-Feed 45*
-Return 90* close radius

Frame
-Feed and return 120*

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Where were you 6 months ago!!!

 

[DailyDrifter]

Thanks alot Bud, you are making my life alot easier, now if only you could send me some cash to get this never ending project running.

 

[gnxtc2]

Where were you 6 months ago!!!

Right here :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[DailyDrifter]

I just ordered the stuff from summit. If this works out you will be at the verry bottom of my SH1t list, and trust me theres alot of people ahead of you . BTW what did you use to cut the line with? And also is there any need for teflon sealer between threads, i wouldn't think so because of the flares on the fittings. Also I checked out the picts of your car.......nice

 

[gnxtc2]

No need for any type of sealer on the threads. That's the purpose of the o-ring.

I ordered the fitting from Classic Tube. I would think you can use a hacksaw.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[DailyDrifter]

ok thats what i thought, thanks for confirming it. once again thank you

 

[49-blues]

A dremel tool also works great!

 

[87we410877]

I used a dremel as well. Worked awesome. A hacksaw can be used. Make sure either one you use, take a peice of masking tape and wrap the hose tightly where your going to cut it and cut in the middle of the tape so the steel braid won't get all sgraggly and you have trouble getting it into the fitting w/ bloody fingers.
I like to then lightly hit the fresh cut with the bench grinder to square the cut off and put a SMALL taper on it to ease fitting installation.

 

[just plain john]

In my case, I don't want to replace the hard line connected to the fuel rail, I want to make the connection where the stock lines from the frame meet the ones from the fuel rail. There is a short piece of rubber hose with a female NPT (I assume) fitting at this location.

 

[DailyDrifter]

do exactly what gnxtc2 said, that will replace the fuel lines from the frame to the fuel rail its the easiest way, all said and done it cost about $125-150. Also the peice of rubber fuel line is crimped to the hard line that goes to the rail. like i said AN lines are alot easier

 

[t3intercooled]

just subscribing

 

[DailyDrifter]

t3, this is exactly what you need to do.

 

[DailyDrifter]

I know this thread is dead, but a little info to make it easier on someone else trying to do it . I found the best way to cut the braided line is with a whezzer wheel on a die or angle grinder. Tape the ends TIGHT with electrical tape and cut in the middle. Use silicon to slide the line into the fittings. MAKE SURE TO CLEAN OUT THE LINES WITH BRAKE CLEAN. You can also wrench on these fittings pretty hard to get a good seal. After having about 1000 miles on mine they are Bone dry (The car is in peices again ).

 

[norbs]

Use teflon braided or your car will smell like gas forever, that mistake cost me a lot of coin.

 

[just plain john]

Go to the Earls website and search for 991955 or 991954 or 9894dbh or 9894dbj. Sorry, I don't have Aeroquip or Russels numbers.

 

[ALVAROG1983]

Fuel Lines

I know this thread is dead, but a little info to make it easier on someone else trying to do it . I found the best way to cut the braided line is with a whezzer wheel on a die or angle grinder. Tape the ends TIGHT with electrical tape and cut in the middle. Use silicon to slide the line into the fittings. MAKE SURE TO CLEAN OUT THE LINES WITH BRAKE CLEAN. You can also wrench on these fittings pretty hard to get a good seal. After having about 1000 miles on mine they are Bone dry (The car is in peices again ).

so the rubber braided didn't work out for you.

 

[DailyDrifter]

so the rubber braided didn't work out for you.

I still used the steel braided line. I was not going to shell out $200 for stock replacment lines plus the steel braided looks better IMO. Also the Teflon line is better to use because of smell issues (I didnt know it at the time ).

When you cut the line, the rubber gets inside of it so be sure to CLEAN IT OUT!!!!! Nothing worse than sending that stuff into the fuel rail, or oiling system (I also have -AN line going to an oil cooler) And yes GNXTC2 had the part numbers for that also