An opinion on in-tank double-pumper setups.....

seems to me a safegaurd system some guys are running would prevent a lot of these disasters on big dollar max effort motors, seems like u could have installed one in the time it took to debate this LOL, seriously....wouldnt it shut down boost and prevent big dollar meltdowns here?
 
WHY-DOES-MY-CAR-BREAK-DOWN-SO-MUCH-650x429.jpg
 
part of the issue is knowing where the weak links are.... and doing what you can to ensure they are properly maintained.

Gauges, knock or otherwise, help to tune the combination. If something gives up, gauges won't help much.

The higher the power, the more sensitive to fuel/octane failure.

I even wonder on the 'single pump is better than two' discussion if the one pump in question couldn't fail partially, causing the same issue.

Bob

Bob.... clean out your PM box.........
 
I've run many DP's on cars, and here is what I do... I check the system for the 2nd pump often to make sure it comes on line, as it should. It's very easy to do with an air tank or compressor, by pressurizing the line to the hobbs switch. Now that you know it is working properly you can look at your datalogging system after the pass to make sure it is working adequately.

Personally... I've never seen a RA DP work one day and be completely dead the next. If anything, it'll let you know it's getting lazy.

With todays cars getting faster & faster, and the owners getting greedier & greedier, the need for fuel pressure datalogging becomes more important, no matter what ecm is in the car.


K.
 
Run your car like the retired space shuttle, Multiple Redundancies!!! or start a tap at your local machine shop..8^)
 
I went with a single Weldon 1100 external pump from Hartline using a pickup out of the stock tank and I couldn't be happier!
 
Sorry to get a little side tracked here but this discussion begs the question on my end. What is a good moderate performance pump that could DIRECTLY replace the original stock pump??? The reason I ask is, my DP setup is an old ATR setup and I've been told over the years that those old one's used a pair of stock pumps. ???
I don't have a problem yet, the setup has been trouble free for over 12 years now, but I'd like to keep it that way. Maybe it's time to think about replacing them. They're both hot wired nicely. I ran the seccond pump off a hobbs switch for several years, but now run it off of the Translator Pro (one less mechanical device to go bad).
 
Wow, didn't think my question was that hard.

I think most doublepumpers are being built with the Walbro's. The Higher flowing in-tank pumps are too big to fit 2 of them thru the opening in the tank.

You could go with a pair of the lower flowing Walbros, but I'm not sure there is an advantage in doing so.

Bob
 
I think most doublepumpers are being built with the Walbro's. The Higher flowing in-tank pumps are too big to fit 2 of them thru the opening in the tank.

You could go with a pair of the lower flowing Walbros, but I'm not sure there is an advantage in doing so.

Bob

Well, I think I have two options.

1. Replace the two stockers that are on my present double pumper, but what exactly would fit with no mods.

2. Replace the single stocker in my original hanger(in a box now) with a higher performance single, that will fit with no mods, but what exactly fits that bill.
 
IMHO, the new single aeromotive pump looks good on paper. I think there is a few others that are similar that have come to market recently. These ought to be 9 sec flow capable on gas.
 
Could you plumb in a Fuel Pressure Safety Switch to cut off the injectors if the pumps weren't producing enough volume? Or incorporate it into some kind of rev limiter?

Edelbrock 72214 - Edelbrock Fuel Pressure Safety Switches - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I was also thinking of a lead/lag arrangement for the two pumps that would cycle which pump turned on first
everytime you started the car. This would balance the use of each pump.

I wouldn't want to turn the injectors off...... maybe the spark....... but it might would work......
 
There are dozens of things that can go wrong and kill a motor so I always come back to the the audible knock detector. That way if anything goes wrong there will almost always be some knock and I can lift and investegate the problem.
Not when youre making over 600hp. You have no time to lift. If it detonated its hurt. A knock gauge will let you know it happened. Its not going to prevent it.
 
Plenty of large single external pumps have hurt engines when it fed inadequate fuel to the rails during a pass. Same a a multiple pump setup with a failing pump. Dont be fooled. Replacing/rebuilding them at a given point is probably the best insurance.
 
Plenty of large single external pumps have hurt engines when it fed inadequate fuel to the rails during a pass. Same a a multiple pump setup with a failing pump. Dont be fooled. Replacing/rebuilding them at a given point is probably the best insurance.

Would you not agree that running two pumps that are (otherwise) not big enough as a single pump to flow enough fuel for the particular setup doubles your chances of a pump problem?
 
Anyway.....if our alky pump failed.....the WOT closed loop correction would compensate for the lack of alky flowing. In our particular case.....it would make no difference.
Try making a pass in that 9 sec car and run the alky pump through a switch that can be flipped to shut the alky pump off at about 600'. Let us know the result of that.
 
Try making a pass in that 9 sec car and run the alky pump through a switch that can be flipped to shut the alky pump off at about 600'. Let us know the result of that.

Comeon Man...... LOL..... I am not going to test the theory no more than you would shut off pump(s) on your car during a pass...... I'm not going out looking for trouble.... we stand to hurt enough stuff without going looking for it.....

My initial post was about in-tank double pumpers anyway.....
 
Not when youre making over 600hp. You have no time to lift. If it detonated its hurt. A knock gauge will let you know it happened. Its not going to prevent it.

I can believe that in many cases the audible knock detector would be too little too late to properly warn you but about 3 years ago I had my T-Type at the track and the audible knock detector went crazy at about the 1000' so I lifted and coasted thru. After I got back to the pits I checked the slip and the car ran a 6.58 1/8 before I lifted and the Direct Scan showed 18 degrees of knock retard and the motor lived! It turned out the diaphram in the regulator failed and so the fuel pressure dropped back to 42psi. I am sure I got lucky especially considering this motor had stock pistons but the $45 I paid for the knock detector paid for itself many times over that night!
 
Would you not agree that running two pumps that are (otherwise) not big enough as a single pump to flow enough fuel for the particular setup doubles your chances of a pump problem?
It's not really a good comparison imo. More pumps definitely add more potential problems vs running one of the same but it doesn't double the chance of a problem. The factory fuel lines have a hard time flowing what 2 340's can flow and vary more car to car than 2 new 340 pumps would vary.
 
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