And so it begins.... (lsx content)

[6togo]

I have seen those also just dont know if the BRP's set the engine to high or not might limit what manifold/elbow you use with the stock hood.

 

[KevinB]

I put one of my blocks and bolted a set of junk heads on it. Also got the mock up th400 in.
Here's what I got:

The BRP mounts and the $140 gmpp oil pan from Jeg's:

If the engine sat any lower it would hit the stock steering linkage:

I will have to drill the crossmember to get the mounts to work. If i used the holes they want you to it would be pretty far forward. I got it back almost to where the cylinder head on the pass side hits the fire wall.

 

[KevinB]

Clearance between water pump and radiator fans. The fans are sitting down a little but you can get the idea.

The stock truck throttle body in about the spot it will be with eldelbrocks elbow. The hood shut with no issues.

 

[KevinB]

Here is a picture that shows where the engine sits from the fire wall. Not sure if I want to come back a little more or not.

 

[6togo]

Thats what i thought about the BRP's they sit the motor to far forward so i guess the 1" setback plates is the way if you dont want to redrill the holes. Looks like the pan hangs below the frame about 2" any worries about that? Isn't the CTSV pan shorter in height i seen one or two that were alomost even with the frame!

 

[KevinB]

My old 200 4r had a pan that sat lower and I never had issues so I'm not worried. No idea on the cts pan.

 

[KevinB]

I didn't know brp made set back plates.

 

[6togo]

I dont think they do just saying in general and i just looked at some plates judging where yours are sitting which looks close to the center of the mount they would probably sit the motor 3"s or so forward in the stock frame holes. That is why the a/c comp. will fit they have the motor shifted way forward. Good pics though just what i needed to see thanks!

 

[8 SEC 109]

Looks great Kevin!

The motor is sitting right where it needs to be with the BRP mounts, drill new holes bolt em call it good.

 

[KevinB]

Thanks man! I am going to spot weld them in place then pull it all out and drill the new holes. I flipped the drivers side frame pad backwards from the way they had it labeled. It was hanging of the frame. By flipping it, it is now completely on the frame. My junkyard engine will be ready to go hopefully tomorrow evening. I am going to do a quick clean up port job on the 241 heads I have. The short block is ready to go.
Dave, where did you install your turbo drain? I should probably do that also before I install the engine I'm using.

 

[jcuadra]

here are a few threads i got from ls1tech, hope it helps
http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1500310-oil-feed-drain.html
http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1464935-10an-turbo-return-pan-1-2-14-tap-drill-size.html

 

[jcuadra]

here are a couple more
http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-cover-oil-drain-truck-front-accessories.html
http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1531602-oil-drain-through-front-cover.html

 

[8 SEC 109]

Thanks man! I am going to spot weld them in place then pull it all out and drill the new holes. I flipped the drivers side frame pad backwards from the way they had it labeled. It was hanging of the frame. By flipping it, it is now completely on the frame. My junkyard engine will be ready to go hopefully tomorrow evening. I am going to do a quick clean up port job on the 241 heads I have. The short block is ready to go.
Dave, where did you install your turbo drain? I should probably do that also before I install the engine I'm using.

I tapped the pan with a 1/2 pipe thread on the passenger side of the pan towards the front. I will text you a few photos.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

It will be interesting to see how long the stock pistons can handle it. Even building an engine with good pistons and rods would be cheap. I am really considering selling my stage stuff and going LS. A 5.3 with a 76mm or 80mm turbo would be killer on the street. Even true pump gas would probably go low 9's. The worst thing is the headers, which is no big deal to me, just takes time. I wish I looked into this before I jumped into the stage2. I might have to do a blowout sale like Dave did while someone still wants the v6 stuff.

 

[KevinB]

It will be interesting to see how long the stock pistons can handle it. Even building an engine with good pistons and rods would be cheap. I am really considering selling my stage stuff and going LS. A 5.3 with a 76mm or 80mm turbo would be killer on the street. Even true pump gas would probably go low 9's. The worst thing is the headers, which is no big deal to me, just takes time. I wish I looked into this before I jumped into the stage2. I might have to do a blowout sale like Dave did while someone still wants the v6 stuff.

I have a junk yard 5.3 on the stand that is going in here soon. We will see how far it goes with good tuning. The block that is in the car now will get good stuff. You can have a complete forged bottom end for less than $2k (crank, rods, pistons), then my machine work bill we be about $700 or so I figure. I will assemble it myself. Add up the odds and ends and I think a $3k short block capable of a reliable 1000 hp is possible. I haven't been this excited about my car in years. I just got bored with what I had. Life is too short to keep doing the same stuff.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

I have a junk yard 5.3 on the stand that is going in here soon. We will see how far it goes with good tuning. The block that is in the car now will get good stuff. You can have a complete forged bottom end for less than $2k (crank, rods, pistons), then my machine work bill we be about $700 or so I figure. I will assemble it myself. Add up the odds and ends and I think a $3k short block capable of a reliable 1000 hp is possible. I haven't been this excited about my car in years. I just got bored with what I had. Life is too short to keep doing the same stuff.

I hear ya. Every year I do something else to my car. Now it is to the point where I am concerned about being reliable. I am not comfortable driving this thing around with a solid roller with 600lbs springs. With the LS, I can run a hydraulic roller with mild springs, and on pump gas.

 

[V8killR4U]

Kevin, congrats on making the switch, looks like your making quick work of everything, I will be following this thread closely as Im considering making the switch as well. Like everyone else my only hang up is getting in over my head budget wise and work wise and having the car just sit and collect dust. Cant wait to see how this turns out from the sounds of it you'll be up and running in no time. Good luck and thanks for taking the time posting your progress!

 

[twiz]

Here is a picture that shows where the engine sits from the fire wall. Not sure if I want to come back a little more or not.

that has got to be the best pic i seen so far of the actual placement of the mounts i have seen since researching this swap. question for ya tho. with the engine where its at can you use the stock trans crossmember placment?? reason i ask is i'm lookin to throw a 400 behind my ls when i do the swap and already have a g-force crossmember i would like to use.

 

[KevinB]

Thanks everyone. I am not sure of the trans crossmember. Right now trans is supported with a jack. I plan on addressing that issue tonight after work.

 

[garyk1970]

subscribed.....this is making me pull the trigger on turbo(ing) my gmc serria!!