Thanks nick. Well I did the one method and I really don't wanna replace HG's anytime soon. So I'm going with the second option this time. I guess I need to start searching for someone knowledgeable around my area and has a dyno handy.You say this is a "non-tuned" issue which caused the blown head gasket, but the reality of this incident is the fuel mixture was not correct for the HP being developed?
Especially with alky injection, it takes experience and knowledge to make HP w/o detonation and/or pre-ignition.
The main purpose of alky injection is to cool the charge in the combustion chamber, but you must have enough fuel as well to support the HP level, or bad things happen.
My point is you must have an adequate fuel supply mechanically, as well as the electronics and program supplying enough fuel entering by the injector.
Like was said above, a chassis dyno will allow real-time data as HP increases to show the mixture is proper.
An option to the dyno is a Powerlogger. It may take many road tests with you and a buddy to watch real-time data which you can also record.
There are 2 methods to tune, run it until it breaks, or a ton of data to get your SPECIFIC tune done right!
Another non tuned car blowing a HG
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I'll be sure to look into it. I can honestly say I never even looked into where it was at ever.
jasjamz
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You have a TT Chip?
Did you order it or buy it used?
Did you change anything in the combo vs. what the chip was burned for?
If a car blows a HG, attention during the teardown may reveal an issue.
Verify, MAF readings and settings, voltage, Fuel Pressure, and Alky Pressure upon re-assembly.
Wouldn't hurt to have the injectors cleaned and flowed while you replace the stock injector harness.
I like the AEM Wideband. The new ones, AEM 30-0300 read pretty fast with a larger display. I once had a LC-1 Innovate, I was set to read rich if in error which will cause a WB tracking system to PULL fuel. AEM's default to Lean in the mid 14's and WB tracking systems will typically add fuel.
Did you order it or buy it used?
Did you change anything in the combo vs. what the chip was burned for?
If a car blows a HG, attention during the teardown may reveal an issue.
Verify, MAF readings and settings, voltage, Fuel Pressure, and Alky Pressure upon re-assembly.
Wouldn't hurt to have the injectors cleaned and flowed while you replace the stock injector harness.
I like the AEM Wideband. The new ones, AEM 30-0300 read pretty fast with a larger display. I once had a LC-1 Innovate, I was set to read rich if in error which will cause a WB tracking system to PULL fuel. AEM's default to Lean in the mid 14's and WB tracking systems will typically add fuel.
TT chip and flow march 60's bought new from TT. Wanted to get the injectors cleaned but it kinda
Was a turn and burn job done in 3 days. Was renting a buddys garage and lift for the tear down.
Car is up and running after have one injector leak. Took care of that and she is good to go. Got every thing base settings on the car. Also adjusted the setting in my translator. Adding more fuel for WOT. Seem to having a vacuum leak. BLM's are elevated at 142 at idle , does get back to 120's while driving. Fuel pressure is 43lbs line off, tps is at .44 and functioning properly. Car is idling high in park around 1150-1200rpm and while in drive but stopped. I loose vacuum, she drops to 12-10 psi of vac from the usual 20. No noticeable vacuum leak that I can see and or hear. Car was doing this on Initial start up. I've read where a fuel/ lean condition can cause a system like this. Looking for some ideas? Maybe I need another set of eyes and ears to give me a hand. TIA.
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
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BLM's are pegged at 142 at idle. You have a vacuum or an exhaust leak...or both. Find it or you'll be changing head gaskets.
Fog it .. fastest way to find leaks
Dwilc47
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what fuel pump you running? still the 255? I would upgrade to at least a 340 at that boost.
Im not even driving the car around until this issue is resolved. Logger is being ordered this weekend. Thanks Full Throttle on the sale btw. But I was hoping to be able to find the issue without it. Exhaust is good from what I've looked at. Pretty sure it's vacuum bc well the my vac gauge keeps fluctuating. I have off next two days. I'll hopefully find the issue.
jasjamz
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Get a can of carb cleaner with the straw. With the car at idle, spray around the throttle body including the IAC, vacuum block, and the sides where the shafts go through. Spray around the upper plenum gasket as well as the intake gaskets. Spray around the injectors too where they go in the intake. Spray easy to detect when the idle changes.
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And when that's not available, A shop vac in reverse and a spray bottle of soapy water works well.
X 2
Vacuum leaks kills these cars.. period
Faster everything is sealed up .. faster you can get down to tuning and making the proper adjustments .. there is no half assing it here ...
jasjamz pointed out critical areas to look for as they are LEAK PRONE ... one I find a lot of is the injector orings .. check it! it doesn't take long at all
Attention to detail gives the greatest returns
Injectors have all new O rings. No leaks there from what I can tell. It almost feels like she my MAF took a shit a few months ago. Would get into 5lbs and start breaking up. Cars on the back burner anyway. Blew a brake line or two on my daily driver. I'll have to try the spray technique. I should listen to the change of idle with the carb cleaner correct? Bubbles with the soap and water?
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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You can also try something like this with propane.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Pr...d=391885725337&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Skip the tip and turn it down so just a light flow comes out. Run it around the usual areas. RPM will raise at leaks.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Pr...d=391885725337&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Skip the tip and turn it down so just a light flow comes out. Run it around the usual areas. RPM will raise at leaks.
Well I figured it out. Finally swapped over the stock egr with a block plate and it wasn't sealed correctly. Very soft leak, I could barely hearing it hissing. Applied pressure to the top of the plate and it stopped. So got some high heat rtv sealer maker. Hopefully it does the job.
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
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What's your idle BLM's now with the engine at operating temperature?
Havnt made it over to the car and checked. I wanted it to get a full 24 hour set. I'm hoping it's closer to 132 instead of 142
Finally made it over to the garage. Car fired up and idled wonderful. Checked BLMS/Int were both at 128. Blms jumped to 130 at operating temp. Int stayed at 128. Looks like she sealed for now. Won't get a chance to drive the car till tomm. Fingers crossed so I can start dialing in the tune.
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
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Be sure the dip switches in the Translator are set correctly for your chip and the base knob is set correctly for the MAF you're using.
They are all set correctly. Ready to start putting some milesnon her. Power logger should be here end of this week.
