turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
- Messages
- 4,261
This is probably generally true..... however... I do have an early block that had cracked all the way across the cylinders.... about 2" above the lifter valley floor........ albeit possibly attributed to it being an early block.... that is known to be less strong.
That type of cracking is usually casued by freezing.
If you really wanted to strengthen the bottom end, you can heat the block to RED hot, then oxy/acetylene weld (using cast iron rod) and build up all the areas you want. Not sure how you could strengthen the cylinder walls, though. Maybe sleeve a 4.1 to a 3.8 bore and do an inverted half fill. If you invert the block and use plastic straws to keep water passages open, pour the "cement" in. THat should help with the top of the bores. Cast iron wleding is best left to the few, VERY FEW, experienced folks out there. There is only ONE guy on the west coast that I know of that does magic!! He has fixed a few aggressively ported 8445 heads that I did. His work is AMAZING. He even let me watch, and told me just how he does it. I still take stuff to him, instead of trying it myself. I'm too chicken, and he is close enough to me that it isn't worth it. He has fixed lots of NHRA slock eliminator heads, and just about anythng cast iron. (that's ALL he does) Fixes blocks and heads all day long.
Now the KEY to making cast iron wleding work.............you MUST, I mean MUST, slow cool the entrie, previously red hot part, over a 24 hour period. Not sure how dimensionally stable the block will be after alot of welding and bringing it up to red hot. Might have to have the block machined on a Rottler CNC afterward, too.
Give it a try. PLEASE!!! I would love to see that done.